dermill

Member
HI my range rover 2007 l322 v8 wont turn over turn key lights come on but wont turn over have tried starter motor ignition switch relays wiring battery instrument cluster checked fuse board beside battery

its been going on for 4 months now used to start first thing in morning came back from work would eventually start seems worse when weather or car is hot but now it hardly starts after 10-15 mins off trying sometimes usually wont start at all have to leave it till next day
 
HI my range rover 2007 l322 v8 wont turn over turn key lights come on but wont turn over have tried starter motor ignition switch relays wiring battery instrument cluster checked fuse board beside battery

its been going on for 4 months now used to start first thing in morning came back from work would eventually start seems worse when weather or car is hot but now it hardly starts after 10-15 mins off trying sometimes usually wont start at all have to leave it till next day
Sounds like the starter motor may be at fault.
 
Time to get your volt meter out and check for voltage at the solenoid.
Check the heavier wire for 12+volts coming from the battery.
Then check the small wire on the solenoid when the ignition is turned on to the start position.
If no voltage at the heavy wire then there is a problem at the source, I. E. The battery.
If there is no voltage at the small wire on the solenoid when the key is turned then there is a problem via relay, fuse or else where.
Continuity using battery earth to engine block and starter case also will confirm good earth passage.
For a start at least. ;)
 
If you are feeling brave, take a jump lead from the battery positive to the big stud on the starter motor that the thick wire connects to, the starter should spin. Best connect to the starter first and then touch the other end to the battery positive. Take care not to let the end near any metal part of the car.
 
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I had an intermittent problem like this on a motor of mine. I fitted a little 12v buzzer wired into the small wire at the starter motor.
If the car didn’t start but the buzzer sounded= starter suspect
Thats a good tester idea. Especially if your working by yourself.
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Hello People,

I'm new to the forum so please be gentle with me, I would like to tell you all a story that may help someone in the future.

A few months ago I was driving to Hull and I pulled into a service station for a comfort brake, when a got back into the car it would not turn over, tried a couple of times and it fired up. I drove out of the services and found the car had gone into limp mode so I pulled over reset the codes and all good. A few weeks later the same thing happened with the same outcome the engine kicked into life but in limp mode, I reset the codes and all was good. I should point out that by now I knew I had a problem and promised myself that I would investigate it as soon as possible. I didn't and about a month later the car would not start but this time ended up calling the AA (I know it's showing weakness but admit defeat and get the dam thing home to work on is my policy), any way the AA man said he reckoned the starter motor had failed so he must be correct, right. Wrong took out the starter motor (if anyone has tried this with the engine in please tell me an easy way as I found it to be a t**t of a job), spun the starter over on the bench and it went fine. The solenoid connections were worn so replaced with new bits and put the starter motor back on the car. Tried to crank the engine and still nothing, battery good so must be something else right.

Suspecting earth connections at this point so started checking continuity this showed all good, so started checking fuses (again), this turned out to be a bad idea. Beginning to loose the will to live so I started searching the interweb but found nothing, the main thing I needed was a circuit diagram but they are very difficult to find for the 2006.

I had a sudden flash of poo to the brain, what if the earth from the engine was compromised and could not carry the current of a start but checked out on a continuity test. Answer, run a jump lead from the battery neg to the engine, this worked the engine spun over and fired but gave lots of faults that would not reset. This brings me back to the fuse checking being a mistake if you take a fuse out in the dark be sure to put it back in the correct place, this mistake lost me loads of time but I also learned lots about how these cars go together. I ran a new earth cable and put the fuse back in the correct holder (not easy as I had to find my mistake first), car goes now with no faults.

In short if someone says check the earth connections on these cars first they know of what they speak and I would not be writing all this now.

If you have got this far well done it took me longer to do it then to write it and I hope it helps someone in some way.
 
Hello People,

I'm new to the forum so please be gentle with me, I would like to tell you all a story that may help someone in the future.

A few months ago I was driving to Hull and I pulled into a service station for a comfort brake, when a got back into the car it would not turn over, tried a couple of times and it fired up. I drove out of the services and found the car had gone into limp mode so I pulled over reset the codes and all good. A few weeks later the same thing happened with the same outcome the engine kicked into life but in limp mode, I reset the codes and all was good. I should point out that by now I knew I had a problem and promised myself that I would investigate it as soon as possible. I didn't and about a month later the car would not start but this time ended up calling the AA (I know it's showing weakness but admit defeat and get the dam thing home to work on is my policy), any way the AA man said he reckoned the starter motor had failed so he must be correct, right. Wrong took out the starter motor (if anyone has tried this with the engine in please tell me an easy way as I found it to be a t**t of a job), spun the starter over on the bench and it went fine. The solenoid connections were worn so replaced with new bits and put the starter motor back on the car. Tried to crank the engine and still nothing, battery good so must be something else right.

Suspecting earth connections at this point so started checking continuity this showed all good, so started checking fuses (again), this turned out to be a bad idea. Beginning to loose the will to live so I started searching the interweb but found nothing, the main thing I needed was a circuit diagram but they are very difficult to find for the 2006.

I had a sudden flash of poo to the brain, what if the earth from the engine was compromised and could not carry the current of a start but checked out on a continuity test. Answer, run a jump lead from the battery neg to the engine, this worked the engine spun over and fired but gave lots of faults that would not reset. This brings me back to the fuse checking being a mistake if you take a fuse out in the dark be sure to put it back in the correct place, this mistake lost me loads of time but I also learned lots about how these cars go together. I ran a new earth cable and put the fuse back in the correct holder (not easy as I had to find my mistake first), car goes now with no faults.

In short if someone says check the earth connections on these cars first they know of what they speak and I would not be writing all this now.

If you have got this far well done it took me longer to do it then to write it and I hope it helps someone in some way.
Post this in a new thread for someone to see ;) thanks for your help:cool:
 
Hello People,

I'm new to the forum so please be gentle with me, I would like to tell you all a story that may help someone in the future.

A few months ago I was driving to Hull and I pulled into a service station for a comfort brake, when a got back into the car it would not turn over, tried a couple of times and it fired up. I drove out of the services and found the car had gone into limp mode so I pulled over reset the codes and all good. A few weeks later the same thing happened with the same outcome the engine kicked into life but in limp mode, I reset the codes and all was good. I should point out that by now I knew I had a problem and promised myself that I would investigate it as soon as possible. I didn't and about a month later the car would not start but this time ended up calling the AA (I know it's showing weakness but admit defeat and get the dam thing home to work on is my policy), any way the AA man said he reckoned the starter motor had failed so he must be correct, right. Wrong took out the starter motor (if anyone has tried this with the engine in please tell me an easy way as I found it to be a t**t of a job), spun the starter over on the bench and it went fine. The solenoid connections were worn so replaced with new bits and put the starter motor back on the car. Tried to crank the engine and still nothing, battery good so must be something else right.

Suspecting earth connections at this point so started checking continuity this showed all good, so started checking fuses (again), this turned out to be a bad idea. Beginning to loose the will to live so I started searching the interweb but found nothing, the main thing I needed was a circuit diagram but they are very difficult to find for the 2006.

I had a sudden flash of poo to the brain, what if the earth from the engine was compromised and could not carry the current of a start but checked out on a continuity test. Answer, run a jump lead from the battery neg to the engine, this worked the engine spun over and fired but gave lots of faults that would not reset. This brings me back to the fuse checking being a mistake if you take a fuse out in the dark be sure to put it back in the correct place, this mistake lost me loads of time but I also learned lots about how these cars go together. I ran a new earth cable and put the fuse back in the correct holder (not easy as I had to find my mistake first), car goes now with no faults.

In short if someone says check the earth connections on these cars first they know of what they speak and I would not be writing all this now.

If you have got this far well done it took me longer to do it then to write it and I hope it helps someone in some way.

Quite a few L322 owners have earth strap issues. I think there is one by the driver's wheel arch that is the prime suspect?
 
Fitted a new braided 'chassis to engine' to a car yesterday, the braids were green and the thing fell apart like dust.

To test if you have an earth issue before crawling underneath simply use a jump lead and connect chassis to engine (or g/box).
 

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