Datatek
Well-Known Member
Still need neutral to check the viscous.Whats park never seen it on mine
i have 1 2 3 4 5 and neutral
Still need neutral to check the viscous.Whats park never seen it on mine
i have 1 2 3 4 5 and neutral
Whats park never seen it on mine
i have 1 2 3 4 5 and neutral
You will be suprised how much of a difference it will make. Sounds like yours are pretty bad - mine need changing yet only slightly noticeable at <1000rpm when parked. Check your Tbox/diffs for leaks, you can open the drain plug slip some paper in there and see what colour it is.
Take some photos showing how you did the UJ's and show us here. Seems to be many asking how and what tools recently, you can use whatever is at hand and there are few ways to do it, plus few different types of UJ. Only one really applies to P38s may help the next person
And get a circlip pliers (not the multiple head type)
with proper penetrating fluid. Douse it few times days before you do the job
And grease Molybdenum disulphide if you can.
I recently replaced a u joint on my 1982 Rangie, all you need is a hammer and something solid, preferably round with a smaller diameter than the u joint cover to hammer it out and the new one back in. Symptoms were the same, a shudder when decelarating at around 2,500 rpm. I didn't check if it worked yet, first the u joinz was the wrong one and the replacements aren't fitted and the car isn't road worthy right now.
Also, make sure to mark the prop shaft and all other parts. I did and still managed to put the joint to the rear axle back the wrong way.
One final idea I will try out with the ujs. Heating up the prop shaft and joint whole with a heat gun just so little to make it easier to press them in. That's what I did back the day with press fittings during my shop floor days as limited as they were. No harm to just hammer them in I guess as that is in the workshop manual. But the less force the better I guess.
You DO NOT hammer caps back in. They are pressed out and pressed in. Only use for a hammer is if joints are stiff after fitting. Then a tap on the side of the knuckles will free them off.
Well, that is strange. My official workshop manual says, I paraphrase, hammer it in. Sure, pressing is easier and less risky. But who has a press?
My manual states Range Rover Reperaturanleitung AKM 4030 Ausgabe 2, seems pretty official to me.
Just to clarify, by hammering I mean not using brute force, just slight hits to get the cap in. Once the cap is in and the diameter of the tool used isn't to small You cannot not damage anything. But hey, heating the propshaft fitting up will help a lot in that regard. You could also use oil or grease to fit them. But as I don't know the construction details I won't do that.
Did I say pressing is wrong? No, it IS the preferred way to do it. Still, slighty hammering them in applying force to the outside of the cap or bearing only is acceptable as well (says SKF). That being said, the correct initial fit of the cap is more important, I saw people destroy bearing with a press and did it myself once as well because the bearing wasn't fitted correctly in the first place.You do NOT hammer U/J cups back in. Out maybe but never back in. They are pressed in ALWAYS. Unless you want needle rollers falling out into the bottom of the cups. But what do i know i have only been a time served mechanic for 58 years. It's hard to believe i have been doing it wrong all that time.
Did I say pressing is wrong? No, it IS the preferred way to do it. Still, slighty hammering them in applying force to the outside of the cap or bearing only is acceptable as well (says SKF). That being said, the correct initial fit of the cap is more important, I saw people destroy bearing with a press and did it myself once as well because the bearing wasn't fitted correctly in the first place.
I guess we should stop here as this discussion is really OT by now and doesn't help anyone, right?
Tank, just let us know if the UJ replacement worked as I'm curious out of personal interest
If you had the prop apart (pulled the sliding section out), did it go back in the correct position? The phasing of the UJ's is important.Bit of an update, replaced all 4 UJs at the weekend, its certainly helped improve the situation. Also changed the front diff pinion seal whilst the prop was off as it had a slight leak and checked the front and rear diff oil. Oil was clean and clear, no burnt smell to it and no metal particles so I am guessing the diffs are in good condition.
What I am left with now is a faint low speed vibration which I can feel through the steering wheel, I had it this morning on the way to work, 20mph, approve 1100-1200rpm I could feel it. Any ideas what is most likely to cause a vibration at this speed range?