T

tank93

Active Member
Looking for some advice if possible please. I have a P38 Range Rover 4.0 Auto, its a 1997MY with the GEMS engine if that makes any difference. I have 3 issues, maybe they are related, I dont know thats why I thought I would post on here to gather some opinions.

Problem 1 - When I am driving at a steady speed (30-40mph) and I have to take my foot off the accelerator pedal, when I quickly re-apply the throttle I get a nasty clonk/thud/shudder from underneath the vehicle. I just wondered if this is something anyone has experienced, I am guessing something on the drivetrain is playing up or is maybe worn?

Problem 2 - At light throttle (around 1500rpm) between 30-40mph I can feel a light vibration, I can also feel it faintly through the steering wheel so again guessing its the start of something that over time is likely to get progressively worse, possibly a prop UJ?

Problem 3 - The back end of the car in my opinion feels unstable, feels like its stepping out when turning/going around corners. I have the standard 16" wheels fitted.

Thank you
 
For the clonk/vibration, check the universal joints. You need 2 wheels on the same side off the ground to release the tension before you can check for slack. If one were to break, it could destroy the gearbox or pole vault the car:eek:
As for the loose rear end, check the panhard rod bushes and trailing arm mounts and bushes.
 
+1 on UJs.

And check as a matter of urgency. As Datatek says, if one of the Hardy-Spicers lets go it can flail around and smash your gearbox to shreds. Happened to quite a few people on here. THis link might help: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hardy-spicers-ujs.333956/

Might be a second problem too. Any scrubbing on the outside of the front tyres? Check the viscous coupling. It may be seizing and that may in turn be messing up other things.
 
Last edited:
Thank you both I will definitely check the UJs.

I apologise I did check the viscous coupling, with one front wheel lifted off the ground I was able to turn the wheel using a socket on one of the wheel nuts so I think the viscous coupling is OK? I was told if the viscous was seized there would be no way I would be able to turn the wheel, is that right?
 
tank93 said:
Thank you both I will definitely check the UJs.

I apologise I did check the viscous coupling, with one front wheel lifted off the ground I was able to turn the wheel using a socket on one of the wheel nuts so I think the viscous coupling is OK? I was told if the viscous was seized there would be no way I would be able to turn the wheel, is that right?
Click to expand...

If it was seized solid, yes. I think they become stiffer long before they seize though. If you can turn it with less than 150nm on a torque wrench on the hub nut then it is probably OK.
 
tank93 said:
Thank you both I will definitely check the UJs.

I apologise I did check the viscous coupling, with one front wheel lifted off the ground I was able to turn the wheel using a socket on one of the wheel nuts so I think the viscous coupling is OK? I was told if the viscous was seized there would be no way I would be able to turn the wheel, is that right?
Click to expand...
Viscous sounds OK for the moment.
 
tank93 said:
Looking for some advice if possible please. I have a P38 Range Rover 4.0 Auto, its a 1997MY with the GEMS engine if that makes any difference. I have 3 issues, maybe they are related, I dont know thats why I thought I would post on here to gather some opinions.

Problem 1 - When I am driving at a steady speed (30-40mph) and I have to take my foot off the accelerator pedal, when I quickly re-apply the throttle I get a nasty clonk/thud/shudder from underneath the vehicle. I just wondered if this is something anyone has experienced, I am guessing something on the drivetrain is playing up or is maybe worn?

Problem 2 - At light throttle (around 1500rpm) between 30-40mph I can feel a light vibration, I can also feel it faintly through the steering wheel so again guessing its the start of something that over time is likely to get progressively worse, possibly a prop UJ?

Problem 3 - The back end of the car in my opinion feels unstable, feels like its stepping out when turning/going around corners. I have the standard 16" wheels fitted.

Thank you
Click to expand...
U/J went on my P38 and gave similar symptoms. My friendly mechanic had one ordered, delivered and fitted inside an hour. The old one was absolutely shot.
 
+1 check shafts, could cause catastrophic injury to you and whom you flip into. Will turn your vehicle to scrap best case scenario. They are cheap to do/get done by someone that will know if it's more than just UJs

My P38 started to wiggle around like steering problem/back end. Vibration through s.wheel and eventually seat. Shafts were playing up caused T.box leak. Filled box with new oil and had a fiddle with UJ's. They still click and need renewing but drives straight now with more power too
 
+1 on u/j's, had same problem on my disco and lots of brown stuff came out when it let go. Not a nice experience believe me. Check them sooner rather than later
 
Thanks to all who have advised so far. I have checked the UJs on the props, no play in them but reading the posts on here I might just replace them anyway as a precaution as I have had the car for a while and they have never been replaced before. Can anyone recommend the best place to get them from please? Are they easy to replace or do you need special tools?

Also doubled checked the viscous again can somebody just confirm I have done this test correctly please as its playing on my mind -
1) Put 5amp fuse into BeCM to put t/case in neutral, messaged appeared on the IPK to confirm
2) Lifted the front left hand wheel off the ground
3) Socket on the hub nut, torque wrench on 150nm and the wheel turned, not easily but it turned and had somebody looking underneath to confirm the prop was moving.

I had the two rear panhard rod bushes in my shed (Lemforder) so decided to replace them as its quite an easy job (friend has a press), hopefully that might help but I guess I will find out when I take her for a drive.
 
A Vice and 2 sockets are all you need.

Or a G clamp in a pinch..

Or!! a Hammer and 2 sockets if you're a complete Pikey ;)

The VC should turn smoothly with a constant pressure applied, if the Torque wrench "breaks" and wheel doesn't move the VC is goosed but considering yours turned i'd say its "ok"

I'd also be inlined to check the gearbox oil..

As the vibration could be TQ related..

If the UJ's are not loose.

How does it "drive" an auto box slip?

Rough changed etc etc
 
On the viscous test you dont put the box in neutral just lift front wheel.

Grrrrrrr posted a link to doing the uj`s in post 3.
 
Make sure you mark up the shafts, joins to diff/box and elbows with a paint pen or scratches before taking them off. They need to go back same orientation as they are balanced - so don't knock shaft about too much

Use new bolts
 
As said by Keith to check prop shaft U/Js you need to chock one rear wheel so car cannot roll either forwards or back. Then lift the opposite rear wheel to check rear prop and likewise front wheel to check front prop. Don't just look for play feel for it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
P38 DSE loss of power when driving
2
Replies
29
Views
1K
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
A
D2 autobox shudder issue (maybe)
Replies
8
Views
891
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
M
L322 3.0 2006 Vogue droning noise at 30mph and above
Replies
9
Views
734
pwood999
pwood999
L
Sport Range rover sport l320 2.7 whine/drone noise
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
loronge2023
L
G
P38 4.0 v8 Automatic goes into low range all on its own
Replies
9
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek