Neil Offer

Member
Does anybody know of an air suspension specialist in southern Hampshire (New Forest area)? I have had two local Land Rover people look at my problems and neither have managed to fix it. Any recommendations would be welcomed. Many thanks. Neil
 
Does anybody know of an air suspension specialist in southern Hampshire (New Forest area)? I have had two local Land Rover people look at my problems and neither have managed to fix it. Any recommendations would be welcomed. Many thanks. Neil
As far as I know, there are no specialists for the EAS, you need to DIY with the EAS diagnostics which you can download FOC plus a cable.
Once you know what the faults are, you will get plenty of help on here to sort the problem
 
Many thanks for the reply. Mechanical stuff I can manage, but electronics not. Do you mean that there is software available on line somewhere and if connected to a computer, it can tell me what's wrong? My concern is that if two Land Rover specialists couldn't fix it, what chance have I got? :) Thanks again. Neil
 
Many thanks for the reply. Mechanical stuff I can manage, but electronics not. Do you mean that there is software available on line somewhere and if connected to a computer, it can tell me what's wrong? My concern is that if two Land Rover specialists couldn't fix it, what chance have I got? :) Thanks again. Neil
What year is your Classic? And what are the problems>?
 
What year is your Classic? And what are the problems>?
The date of registration is 4th Jan 1995. While driving it, the suspension went down onto the bump stops. Thankfully I was very close to home, because the short drive of a few hundred yards was very uncomfortable. The warning light was on, but I took it to a local LR specialist who had it for 8 weeks and couldn't fix it. I took it to another local LR specialist, who replaced the air compressor and disabled the suspension so it stayed up, but after a couple of weeks it was back down on the stops again and now the new compressor is not working.
 
As the RRC EAS is what i'm familiar with, weirdly..

Try unpluging the ECU controlling the suspension On the amp plug you'll find if you pull back the sleeve all the wires are numbered loop pins 1 & 8 to run the compressor for a couple of minutes to charge the system.

3. Then to raise each corner connect the following together with a loop of wire:
3.1 left rear pins 26, 11, 8 & 1
3.2 left front pins 26, 10, 8 & 1
3.3 right rear pins 26, 28, 8 & 1
3.4 right front pins 26, 27, 8 & 1
pin 26 enables air from pump

4. To lower each corner:
4.1. Left rear pins 11,9 & 1
4.2. left front pins10, 9 & 1
4.3. right rear pins 28, 9 & 1
4.4. Right front pins 27, 9 & 1
Pin 1 is power, pin 8 is air inlet solenoid, pin 9 is air exhaust solenoid

if that doesn't work, have a look around the bags, and make sure they aren't leaking, very common

Valveblock too is another place for them to leak, i'd rebuild it as a precaution! ;)

It's possible the compressor has burnt out feeding an unending leak..
If you then leave the ECU unplugged the suspension will remain pumped up until you can find the fault. ;)
 
Were there many differences by 1995? That's the same age as my p38.
Hi, I have been told by a few people that the very late LSE's and the early P38's were made side by side. I had some rodent trouble on part of the wiring harness a while ago and the local specialist told me that the late LSE's would change the wiring harness every so often to incorporate bits and pieces that they LR were trying to get rid of. Hence there were no wiring diagrams. The specialist had an LSE that was three months older than mine and there were all sorts of differences, so he found it really difficult to work on mine. I haven't seen too many other late models so I am not really aware of the differences. I was also told that the dash on the passenger side is not standard either. I was also told that there are many P38 bits on the very late LSE's. However, I really don't know if any of this is true. All I know is that is bloody difficult to fix. :)
 
As the RRC EAS is what i'm familiar with, weirdly..

Try unpluging the ECU controlling the suspension On the amp plug you'll find if you pull back the sleeve all the wires are numbered loop pins 1 & 8 to run the compressor for a couple of minutes to charge the system.

3. Then to raise each corner connect the following together with a loop of wire:
3.1 left rear pins 26, 11, 8 & 1
3.2 left front pins 26, 10, 8 & 1
3.3 right rear pins 26, 28, 8 & 1
3.4 right front pins 26, 27, 8 & 1
pin 26 enables air from pump

4. To lower each corner:
4.1. Left rear pins 11,9 & 1
4.2. left front pins10, 9 & 1
4.3. right rear pins 28, 9 & 1
4.4. Right front pins 27, 9 & 1
Pin 1 is power, pin 8 is air inlet solenoid, pin 9 is air exhaust solenoid

if that doesn't work, have a look around the bags, and make sure they aren't leaking, very common

Valveblock too is another place for them to leak, i'd rebuild it as a precaution! ;)

It's possible the compressor has burnt out feeding an unending leak..
If you then leave the ECU unplugged the suspension will remain pumped up until you can find the fault. ;)
Many thanks for the information. I will have a look tomorrow and see if I can do what you say.
 

Similar threads