holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Damn those parts are clean !
Dishwasher?
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
It was ragged.
The B & C clutches next.
Pete’s B clutch pack has a single heat spot on the inner half of the steel plate facings, which is very common. The friction plates show heat glazing in the area corresponding with this.
The C clutch pack is in perfect condition.
The C clutch is only applied in Reverse so it sees no dynamic engagement and the heat load is low.
The A clutch and C clutch use the same sized clutch plates, and you can make a clear comparison between the colour of the friction plates (brown is good, black is burned) from the two clutches.
Phil
Pete’s B clutch pack has a single heat spot on the inner half of the steel plate facings, which is very common. The friction plates show heat glazing in the area corresponding with this.
The C clutch pack is in perfect condition.
The C clutch is only applied in Reverse so it sees no dynamic engagement and the heat load is low.
The A clutch and C clutch use the same sized clutch plates, and you can make a clear comparison between the colour of the friction plates (brown is good, black is burned) from the two clutches.
Phil
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
oh you dirty clean bitch !!
these are the cave paintings of the 25th century
these are the cave paintings of the 25th century
The D brake for the Range Rover variant of the 5HP24 has four friction plates. There are quite a large number of heat spots on the ones from Pete’s transmission and that isn’t uncommon. This brake is the most susceptible to overheating in the 5HP24 and on higher torque variants i.e. the BMW E53 4.6is (480Nm) and the Alpina E39/E52 4.8 (510Nm), an additional plate is fitted to this clutch pack.
The plates for the E brake, on the other hand, look virtually brand new
The last of the six clutch packs, the F brake, is used for Reverse gear but can also be activated by selecting ‘1’ in manual mode. This provides engine braking in 1st gear. The condition of this clutch pack is excellent
The F brake by-passes the mechanical diode (or one-way clutch or sprag) which earths the rear epicyclic annulus gear in 1st gear. This sprag ensures that the vehicle rolls to a halt very smoothly as it allows the car to freewheel following the 2-1 downshift
The sprag is in excellent condition.
So Pete, that’s everything stripped and cleaned up. Let me know when you’re available to begin the rebuild.
Phil
The plates for the E brake, on the other hand, look virtually brand new
The last of the six clutch packs, the F brake, is used for Reverse gear but can also be activated by selecting ‘1’ in manual mode. This provides engine braking in 1st gear. The condition of this clutch pack is excellent
The F brake by-passes the mechanical diode (or one-way clutch or sprag) which earths the rear epicyclic annulus gear in 1st gear. This sprag ensures that the vehicle rolls to a halt very smoothly as it allows the car to freewheel following the 2-1 downshift
The sprag is in excellent condition.
So Pete, that’s everything stripped and cleaned up. Let me know when you’re available to begin the rebuild.
Phil
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
That is just pure porn them pics
V8made
Active Member
Thanks Phil! That’s great i will text you to arrange coming down and doing the rebuild, I can’t believe how clean the casing is now! Would you recommend replacing the steels or clutch plates from The A clutch etc as they have been so badly overheated? Thanks again for putting so much time in on this for me, especially at this time of year!The D brake for the Range Rover variant of the 5HP24 has four friction plates. There are quite a large number of heat spots on the ones from Pete’s transmission and that isn’t uncommon. This brake is the most susceptible to overheating in the 5HP24 and on higher torque variants i.e. the BMW E53 4.6is (480Nm) and the Alpina E39/E52 4.8 (510Nm), an additional plate is fitted to this clutch pack.
The plates for the E brake, on the other hand, look virtually brand new
The last of the six clutch packs, the F brake, is used for Reverse gear but can also be activated by selecting ‘1’ in manual mode. This provides engine braking in 1st gear. The condition of this clutch pack is excellent
The F brake by-passes the mechanical diode (or one-way clutch or sprag) which earths the rear epicyclic annulus gear in 1st gear. This sprag ensures that the vehicle rolls to a halt very smoothly as it allows the car to freewheel following the 2-1 downshift
The sprag is in excellent condition.
So Pete, that’s everything stripped and cleaned up. Let me know when you’re available to begin the rebuild.
Phil
Okay Pete, I look forward to hearing from you.
With the friction plates, you can buy a complete aftermarket set, like these Exedy ones at £77 :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...n-Kit-Exedy-/192110410573?hash=item2cbaac3b4d
By the way, the A & C plates are identical, and the B, D & E plates are identical :
Individual aftermarket friction plates (e.g. Raybestos, Allomatic, Exedy, etc.) are available for around £5 each for A, C & F, and £6 each for B, D & E.
I only stock genuine ZF plates which are £7.49 each for A & C, and £8.49 each for B, D & E.
I can also supply ‘previously enjoyed’ plates (which still have an identical thickness to new ones) for £1.50 each.
Certainly, your six A clutch plates are all in need of replacement. I would also suggest that you replace the Bs (6-off) & Ds (4-off) too, as they’re all badly glazed.
Regarding the steel plates, I tend to re-use ones that maybe have just a single heat spot, but your As (6-off) and Ds (4-off) will all need replacement. Genuine ZF steel plates – which, as you can see in the earlier photos, have machined faces - are ridiculously expensive (I’ve had quotes in the past for £25 per plate!) but places like one-stop-gearbox-shop sell aftermarket (stamped) steels individually for £10 (A & C) and £7 (B, D & E) :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...418193?hash=item2cbaac5911:g:CGcAAOSw~AVYrFlw
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...419910?hash=item2cbaac5fc6:g:PlQAAOSwfVpYrFoR
I can also supply ‘previously enjoyed’ ones (in perfect condition) for £2 each.
By the way, I stripped your epicyclic assembly down just to check it and it’s all in very good condition. I have a soft spot for this particular design of epicyclic compounding (first invented by Major W.G. Wilson, the guy that co-invented the tank) as it was the first transmission system I did design work on at Leyland at the start of my career, for the Pneumocyclic and Hydracyclic bus transmissions. Ahhh, those were the days…
Phil
With the friction plates, you can buy a complete aftermarket set, like these Exedy ones at £77 :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...n-Kit-Exedy-/192110410573?hash=item2cbaac3b4d
By the way, the A & C plates are identical, and the B, D & E plates are identical :
Individual aftermarket friction plates (e.g. Raybestos, Allomatic, Exedy, etc.) are available for around £5 each for A, C & F, and £6 each for B, D & E.
I only stock genuine ZF plates which are £7.49 each for A & C, and £8.49 each for B, D & E.
I can also supply ‘previously enjoyed’ plates (which still have an identical thickness to new ones) for £1.50 each.
Certainly, your six A clutch plates are all in need of replacement. I would also suggest that you replace the Bs (6-off) & Ds (4-off) too, as they’re all badly glazed.
Regarding the steel plates, I tend to re-use ones that maybe have just a single heat spot, but your As (6-off) and Ds (4-off) will all need replacement. Genuine ZF steel plates – which, as you can see in the earlier photos, have machined faces - are ridiculously expensive (I’ve had quotes in the past for £25 per plate!) but places like one-stop-gearbox-shop sell aftermarket (stamped) steels individually for £10 (A & C) and £7 (B, D & E) :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...418193?hash=item2cbaac5911:g:CGcAAOSw~AVYrFlw
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-BMW...419910?hash=item2cbaac5fc6:g:PlQAAOSwfVpYrFoR
I can also supply ‘previously enjoyed’ ones (in perfect condition) for £2 each.
By the way, I stripped your epicyclic assembly down just to check it and it’s all in very good condition. I have a soft spot for this particular design of epicyclic compounding (first invented by Major W.G. Wilson, the guy that co-invented the tank) as it was the first transmission system I did design work on at Leyland at the start of my career, for the Pneumocyclic and Hydracyclic bus transmissions. Ahhh, those were the days…
Phil
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
I believe that Major Wilson designed the preselect gearbox from scratch and included many features like self adjusting bands and the combining of epicyclic gears into closeratio gears and working out which part of the gear to hold and which part to drive to give the optimum ratios. They could be a bit dangerous to drive if you didnt know what you were doing as when you put your foot on the clutch pedal it engaged gear and started to move if the gear was pre selected.and to change gear the clutch pedal was depressed and the preseled gear was engaged.
I have great respect for Major Wilson as a lot of his ideas are incorperated into todays automatic gearboxes.
V8made
Active Member
Ok here goes.... yes this has been a long time coming but today I finally got the car up and running! With weather and a job change the car took a back seat (excuse the pun) but today she had her first drive out since the surgery and everything works great so MAJOR thanks to @Bemble for the great help and everyone else who helped along the way! The car drives great, a little jumpy at first but soon settled down, however I now have a new problem... when I jacked the car down the air suspension was completely flat down on the bump stops I fired her up and the pump started to pump the suspension up and after a great deal of time it reached normal height, however when I started driving it said air suspension inactive, but the pump still continued to run occasionally as normal, so I plugged her in and it came up with two faults on the air suspension, one said Reservoir pressure static while pump running (which is a lie as the pressure and car were rising) and the other said pump temperature static while pump running, all settings seemed ok, the pressure was set to 12 bar and was running at 10 bar with a minimal pressure of 9 bar and once I cleared the codes everything was fine but a few minutes later it was inactive again, could this be due to the long period with no battery on and the air suspension being flat?
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
If you are at normal height and holding I would use it and see how it goes. Every last bit of air probably drained out of the system while it was on the operating table - well done by the way !
As Ant says it could be the piston ring that has had enough which is an easy fix compared to what you have just completed.
I don’t use my suspension unless I go off road - as in off the road and on my drive and into off road height so I can get underneath.
As Ant says it could be the piston ring that has had enough which is an easy fix compared to what you have just completed.
I don’t use my suspension unless I go off road - as in off the road and on my drive and into off road height so I can get underneath.
V8made
Active Member
Thanks guys yeah piston ring makes sense and seems like a good place to start as it would still build up pressure with a dodgy ring just not very fast, the compressor still works and i don’t seem to have any leaks, however the pump is (and always has been) quite loud it is very noticeable from inside the car but has always worked so I have never bothered about it, is it worth buying the seal kit for £25 and rebuilding the pump or would you say its better to replace as it’s quite loud/worn
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Try the seal kit and see how it goes, they are supposed to have an amount of sound deadening in them from memory and could be loosely fitted in the spare wheel well which makes some noise so you could try putting rubber under it, its been a while since i took mine out. Mine isn't great but as i said, i don't use it unless i have to mate
V8made
Active Member
Yeah I think I will give the seal kit a go and see how it does, I never really use the air suspension either, so don’t mind if it rises slowly, thanks for the help
V8made
Active Member
Got the seal kit from bagpipingandy on flebay for £25, had the pump out and new seals installed in about 40 mins, really easy to do, I think the problem was caused from damp as there was about 2 inches of standing water in the spare wheel well and the sound insulation inside the pump housing was soaking so got it all dry and stuck it back in, reset the fault codes and.... I sat there..... and I honestly thought it wasn’t working!!! The pump is now completely silent! I honestly didn’t expect it to fix it, but everything works perfectly now, thanks guys!
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Top darts ! it should at least buy you some more time, mine has been in for a few years now.
V8made
Active Member
Yeah I think it will eventually need a new motor as it does still struggle to get it up into off road height, but credit where its due, it is a tiny motor pumping 4 large air bags to lift the best part of 3 ton, I never use off road height anyway, I just lower it to help my vertically challenged (short arse) wife get in and out!
