kds · Dec 5, 2017

You could try some Loctite freeze spay on them and give them a little headache as bemble said.

gold rover · Dec 5, 2017

I love this thread.I am learning about all of this, and at the same time learning just how far above my pay grade it all is.Thanks Phil @Bemble for this amazingly interesting information.

Saint.V8 · Dec 5, 2017

This is how i feel when the Legend that is Phil posts:

But I learn sooooo much from him - the guys is fecking 100% total legend....

'If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants' - Isaac Newton

Bemble · Dec 7, 2017

Pete, just wondered how you were getting on with removing the F-brake drum screws?

I’ve just started stripping another transmission so I quickly filmed the screw removal with my phone (sorry about the quality).

Firstly, using an air impact wrench :

(easy huh?)

and secondly with hand tools :

Hopefully you have it sorted now. I guess it’s possible that your transmission has already been rebuilt in the past and some chimp overtightened them?

Phil

V8made · Dec 9, 2017

Bemble said:
Pete, just wondered how you were getting on with removing the F-brake drum screws?

I’ve just started stripping another transmission so I quickly filmed the screw removal with my phone (sorry about the quality).

Firstly, using an air impact wrench :

(easy huh?)

and secondly with hand tools :

Hopefully you have it sorted now. I guess it’s possible that your transmission has already been rebuilt in the past and some chimp overtightened them?

Phil

Hi Phil sorry for the late reply, I had to wait for my new tools to arrive they finally arrived today so will have another go at them, there is one I am pretty sure I won’t get out as I chewed up the head on my last attempt, thanks for the videos will try the hand tool way and fingers crossed will get them all out! Many thanks

myfirstl322 · Dec 9, 2017

@V8made, if the ones you are struggling with are are Torx, what I have done on many occasion is use the finer spline ones, is it E?, anyway, grab one that is closest to the size and belt the f*cker into the mangled head with a big fu*k off hammer.
Works for me.

Alternatively, if you have a welder, weld a nut or stud onto it and it will come off a treat, none of that drilling risk.

How's the roof coming along?

holidaychicken · Dec 9, 2017

I've done that before, works well with the hand impact driver but drilling is really easy, just use a fairly large drill but not as big as the head and just drill in slowly and the head will pop off, then remove the thread that is left behind when all the others are removed. I had to drill a couple of mine out, use a drill that is a little larger than the thread size, which i'm sure Phill can tell you what they are, but i would guess at something like an 8 or 10 mm drill would do it.

myfirstl322 · Dec 9, 2017

I smell loctite.

myfirstl322 · Dec 9, 2017

Try a centre punch on the periphery, counter clockwise, about 4mm inboard.

holidaychicken · Dec 16, 2017

SitRep lofty !

V8made · Dec 18, 2017

Ok... got my hammer out and gave it a good beating... got the torque gun on it and managed to get some out but as you see most just stripped

, apologies for taking so long been mad busy with work! Grrr!!

holidaychicken · Dec 18, 2017

Just making sure you weren't stuck underneath it !!

myfirstl322 · Dec 18, 2017

holidaychicken said:
Just making sure you weren't stuck underneath it !!

What? The welder or the drill?

holidaychicken · Dec 18, 2017

I wouldn't fancy being stuck under a welder, not without a few drinks first, anyway i thought it was a scaffolder he had problems with

myfirstl322 · Dec 18, 2017

Yeah.................and those bolts in his box wot ain't coming out the normal way

holidaychicken · Dec 18, 2017

drill them !

Bemble · Dec 21, 2017

Pete, I’m pleased to say that none of the remaining screws put up much of a fight.

Phil

myfirstl322 · Dec 22, 2017

Yay, progress.

gold rover · Dec 22, 2017

Some of these photos are works of art. Blown up and framed they would look great.

Bemble · Dec 22, 2017

Pete and I decided that it might be best if he left the six clutch assemblies with me for dismantling, as I have the special tools to compress the springs using a mandrel press. Pete will, of course, be rebuilding the transmission himself.

I usually just work through each of the clutches in (alphabetical) order. I’ve just done the A clutch now.

I was surprised to find that the steels have a large number of heat spots, with the corresponding glazing and darkening of the friction plates. This is quite unusual to see in the Range Rover version of the transmission with the stiffened drum.