Ok update time, firstly the good news the TC will be back home today, they said it was really dirty inside and something was dented (the did tell me what but I can’t remember) all fixed for the grand total of just over £320, now for the bad news firstly I haven’t even started on the box yet and the even worse news is the range is now off its ramps.. long story shortened the roofer told me to leave 1 meter for the scaffolding... it should have been 1.5 meters... apparently it falls to me as ‘project manager’ to check these things and if I wanted the different style of scaffolding to ‘bridge the obstruction’ it would be an extra £650 and they would have to do a risk assessment, I will admit I don’t think my attitude towards the situation helped but regardless as far as I was concerned I had done as they asked but typically the small print shafted me!!! Not happy!! We have devised a clever idea (possibly stupid idea) of perhaps winching the range back onto the ramps using a friends Suzuki... i will definitely have to sell tickets for that!!!!! Failing that I will probably have to trailer the car to a garage and do the unthinkable and pay someone to put the box back in!!! Or I could always hire a digger.... if you can’t go over it.....
 
brianp38dse said:
Get them to put the scaffold up round the car making a nice covered dry garage for you to work in sorted:D:D:D

Well done on getting the box out at that time of night in the rain, I hope a nice stiff drink to celebrate after was the order of the day.
Click to expand...
The only stiff thing after I finished was my back and my arms!! I forgot how hard it is working under a car, I had plenty of room but it just at the wrong height, where as you can’t lay down and you can’t sit up, your sort of in limbo! I thought to myself I’ll be nice and dry under the car... no chance because it was so high up it just blew under or dropped off the car on me, I was not a happy bunny!!!
 
650 quid to bridge over a car is downright robbery when they're putting scaffolding up anyway. It would be an extra hours work tops.
My scaffolding for doing my roof cost me 800 quid total for 2 lifts 3 sides.
 
Wazzajnr said:
650 quid to bridge over a car is downright robbery when they're putting scaffolding up anyway. It would be an extra hours work tops.
My scaffolding for doing my roof cost me 800 quid total for 2 lifts 3 sides.
Click to expand...
It was an absolute joke, they said they didn’t have the correct scaffolding on the truck to do the bridge so it would £650 as they would have to reload the truck and come back with the extra scaffolding needed the next day, apparently because they had arrived ‘on site’ and unloaded the truck I had to pay them the agreeded costs as it was ‘an undisclosed obstruction’ think they hit with me with a by the book response because I rang up kicking off, to make matters worse the lads there to erect the scaffolding didn’t speak English they just kept saying ‘move van’ which annoyed me further “it’s not a van! It’s a Range Rover you cretinous idiot!” One thing I have learnt I should have paid the extra £200 and had the roofer install the scaffolding but me being a cheap git thought I would save money and order the scaffolding separate.... on the plus side I now have a very nice blue plastic tarpaulin roof... my house looks like the clampetts have moved in :oops:
 
i am normally as optimistic as they get but the only way my RR goes up on the sleepers is by crawling up and i use low range to stop me flying off the end.
I think if you try and tow it the sleeper will just move out the way and then the rangey will drive over your suzuki.
I have a trolley jack for 4x4s and i think you could jack up each corner onto a sleeper then stand the jack on a sleeper and start again until you get the height you need.
While you have the box out i would try and make a simple wooden adapter like we used to go over your transmission jack to match the sump.
 
A few 4 inch screws applied to the underside may keep them from moving, depending on driveway construction of course.
If paved, just align screws with paving joints after grinding the heads off,
If gravel, any which way but loose,
If concrete why not anchor bolts?

A couple of temporary battens front and back and watch the Jimny burn it clutch to death. lol
 
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holidaychicken said:
i am normally as optimistic as they get but the only way my RR goes up on the sleepers is by crawling up and i use low range to stop me flying off the end.
I think if you try and tow it the sleeper will just move out the way and then the rangey will drive over your suzuki.
I have a trolley jack for 4x4s and i think you could jack up each corner onto a sleeper then stand the jack on a sleeper and start again until you get the height you need.
While you have the box out i would try and make a simple wooden adapter like we used to go over your transmission jack to match the sump.
Click to expand...
Yes I was quite worried as it felt incredibly risky crawling up in low range, I mentioned it to my friend about using his little suzi the look of horror on his face said it all! May I also say, you sir, are a genius! Jacking the corners and doing it wheel by wheel is a brilliant idea! I would have probably thought of it myself if of course... probably when explaining to my insurance company why my range is sitting on my friends roof rack... jokes aside that’s a great idea I was genuinely thinking I would have to trailer it to a garage... regards the jack... it was and is a waste of money for doing a range your much better the way you did it - £30 motorbike jack as they have the flat surface to work from, it does make it possible to move the whole assembly around easily on your own though, one question I do have for you is how did you clean the box out, the fluid is horrid and the TC was really dirty how did you go about cleaning it all out?
 
myfirstl322 said:
A few 4 inch screws applied to the underside may keep them from moving, depending on driveway construction of course.
If paved, just align screws with paving joints after grinding the heads off,
If gravel, any which way but loose,
If concrete why not anchor bolts?

A couple of temporary battens front and back and watch the Jimny burn it clutch to death. lol
Click to expand...
Lol Yeah I would like to try pulling it on with his suzi just for a laugh, not sure if the model but it’s one of those farty little convertible ones, we always wind him up saying he only bought it coz it matches the colour of his hand bag (man bag... whatever!) I have a gravel drive and I put down 8x4 3/4 inch ply sheets and screwed the sleepers to them so nothing moved as I went up the ramps, there was a lot of crunching from the gravel and I did expect it all to come crashing down or the range to slip off the side due to not being lined up properly but everything worked out ok!
 
In my mind you need two jacks, lift both front and rear on a particular side together, otherwise your gonna have a faff trying to align sleepers that are skewed (if using the one jack method). I may be wrong, I'm not trying to deprive HC of his accolade.
 
Jut a thought, could you jack under the diff case then cut the sleepers in half and slide them in across the front and back?
That way you can get in from the sides instead of crawling the length of the car every time?
 
2 strong fellas, 2 long breaker bars with appropriate sockets, on the wheel nuts of the O/SF and R.
Or David Blaine.
Or a couple of ancient Egyptians.
 
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V8made said:
Yes I was quite worried as it felt incredibly risky crawling up in low range, I mentioned it to my friend about using his little suzi the look of horror on his face said it all! May I also say, you sir, are a genius! Jacking the corners and doing it wheel by wheel is a brilliant idea! I would have probably thought of it myself if of course... probably when explaining to my insurance company why my range is sitting on my friends roof rack... jokes aside that’s a great idea I was genuinely thinking I would have to trailer it to a garage... regards the jack... it was and is a waste of money for doing a range your much better the way you did it - £30 motorbike jack as they have the flat surface to work from, it does make it possible to move the whole assembly around easily on your own though, one question I do have for you is how did you clean the box out, the fluid is horrid and the TC was really dirty how did you go about cleaning it all out?
Click to expand...

Regarding the cleaning mine wasnt too bad as we tried doing a fluid and filter change before we removed it but i just drained the fluid and removed the sump which removes the majority of it and then the internals come out in big lumps which in turn can be cleaned as you strip them down and then once everything is out you are left with my earlier post reference Alan's gyno and that just needs a wipe out and maybe a degreaser. if you want it as clean as the parts Phil has then divine intervention is required.

i think i may have pointed you towards that jack, it looked like the thing for the job as we had to keep putting ours together in stages and then adding the wheeled base to move it.

i still think you can get some long coach bolts, if you have to lay a length of wood in the depression, (you may not need to do this) to give yourself a flat surface to work from and then bolt the wooden cradle on top.
As far as the wheels are concerned, if they are pain, wheel it in place under the RR, lever up each corner and remove them or use a taller piece of wood so they clear the ground dropping it down onto the wood either side.
You can do this !!

s-l500 (1).jpg
 
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myfirstl322 said:
In my mind you need two jacks, lift both front and rear on a particular side together, otherwise your gonna have a faff trying to align sleepers that are skewed (if using the one jack method). I may be wrong, I'm not trying to deprive HC of his accolade.
Click to expand...
I'm only sowing my seeds, what they grow in to is anybodies guess ;)
 
Wazzajnr said:
Jut a thought, could you jack under the diff case then cut the sleepers in half and slide them in across the front and back?
That way you can get in from the sides instead of crawling the length of the car every time?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't jack o nthe diff with an L322.....place the jack on the subframe crossmember and jack on that.

I have lifted the entire rear of my L322 using a 12 tonne bottle jack (on blocks to get the height) and placed axle jacks on the subframe and lowered on to those.
 
holidaychicken said:
Regarding the cleaning mine wasnt too bad as we tried doing a fluid and filter change before we removed it but i just drained the fluid and removed the sump which removes the majority of it and then the internals come out in big lumps which in turn can be cleaned as you strip them down and then once everything is out you are left with my earlier post reference Alan's gyno and that just needs a wipe out and maybe a degreaser. if you want it as clean as the parts Phil has then divine intervention is required.

i think i may have pointed you towards that jack, it looked like the thing for the job as we had to keep putting ours together in stages and then adding the wheeled base to move it.

i still think you can get some long coach bolts, if you have to lay a length of wood in the depression, (you may not need to do this) to give yourself a flat surface to work from and then bolt the wooden cradle on top.
As far as the wheels are concerned, if they are pain, wheel it in place under the RR, lever up each corner and remove them or use a taller piece of wood so they clear the ground dropping it down onto the wood either side.
You can do this !!

View attachment 135158
Click to expand...
Love you amazing drawing skills!! I think I ordered the wrong one!! The one in your picture shows the strap attached to the cradle mine is just loose so is as much use as t*ts on a nun! Adding wood on the top would definitely help I may drill the cradle and bolt some ply wood on the top to make it flat, the wheels were only hard work as the plywood floor had a bulge in from the weight of the car at either end (hope that makes sense) so once the jack was lowered it was trying to roll over to the side and I was trying to drag it to the back of the car, on a flat surface it would be fine, I have a huge bottle jack that is for my van, I believe it is 18 tonne? It can also jack the van from the floor as it has two sections that screw out about 12 inches each and then 3 sections that extend as you pump it up, it is ancient I believe it’s from when my dear ol’ Dad used to do hgv work 50 odd years ago!! I think I will jack each wheel one at a time, and once the box is back in I will jack it up again and remove the sleepers as I think your right @myfirstl322 if I try and back the car off the sleepers and they are not lined up properly the weight of the range would push the sleepers out and the car would slide off and I would fill my pants with something that resembles my old gearbox fluid!!!
 
We didnt need any strap to hold ours, if you look at the pic of our wooden adaptor , we had one end built up up higher than the other and that sat either end of the sump which balanced perfectly and yes bolt the wood to the top of the cradle. our wooden adaptor overlapped the lift and either end of the sump so nothing could move in any direction without the need of a strap on !
you could always screw some wooden guides to your wooden floor to stop the jack being able to move left or right once it is lined up and then all you need to do is push it forward.
Whatever happens you still get double points for doing this on your own.

My trolley jack fits nicely into the recess under the rear suspension radius arms and jacking under them saves you trying to raise the body passed the full extent of the suspension as you are trying to lift the wheels onto the sleepers

but still we need some form of pictures, or better still a video of your RR rolling off the sleepers and knocking the scaffolders off their over priced scaffolding
 
Last edited:
holidaychicken said:
We didnt need any strap to hold ours, if you look at the pic of our wooden adaptor , we had one end built up up higher than the other and that sat either end of the sump which balanced perfectly and yes bolt the wood to the top of the cradle. our wooden adaptor overlapped the lift and either end of the sump so nothing could move in any direction without the need of a strap on !
you could always screw some wooden guides to your wooden floor to stop the jack being able to move left or right once it is lined up and then all you need to do is push it forward.
Whatever happens you still get double points for doing this on your own.

My trolley jack fits nicely into the recess under the rear suspension radius arms and jacking under them saves you trying to raise the body passed the full extent of the suspension as you are trying to lift the wheels onto the sleepers

but still we need some form of pictures, or better still a video of your RR rolling off the sleepers and knocking the scaffolders off their over priced scaffolding
Click to expand...
And see if you can include the robbing scaffolders advert, they usually hang one on the job, then we can all ring up for estimates for all the non existing jobs we are about to undertake.;):D
 
V8made said:
one question I do have for you is how did you clean the box out, the fluid is horrid and the TC was really dirty how did you go about cleaning it all out?
Click to expand...
Pete,

You’d be very welcome to chuck your casings in my parts washer when you come back to get the clutch pistons removed.

Parts%20Washer_zpslo3m6kvf.jpg


Phil
 
holidaychicken said:
We didnt need any strap to hold ours, if you look at the pic of our wooden adaptor , we had one end built up up higher than the other and that sat either end of the sump which balanced perfectly and yes bolt the wood to the top of the cradle. our wooden adaptor overlapped the lift and either end of the sump so nothing could move in any direction without the need of a strap on !
you could always screw some wooden guides to your wooden floor to stop the jack being able to move left or right once it is lined up and then all you need to do is push it forward.
Whatever happens you still get double points for doing this on your own.

My trolley jack fits nicely into the recess under the rear suspension radius arms and jacking under them saves you trying to raise the body passed the full extent of the suspension as you are trying to lift the wheels onto the sleepers

but still we need some form of pictures, or better still a video of your RR rolling off the sleepers and knocking the scaffolders off their over priced scaffolding
Click to expand...
Yeah it didn’t need the strap I just would have felt safer using it, as when your laying down with the gearbox balancing above your head unrestrained, you feel like your one wrong move away from disaster! Still haven’t done anything on the gearbox yet :oops: but will be making a start on it tomorrow!! :D
 
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