FreelanderOwl

FreelanderOwl

New Member
Hi All,
Got a strange one here, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.
2007 GS wouldn't start the other morning, due to what I thought was the cold weather, Everything worked fine previously.
It was trying to turn over so I assumed it wasn't a battery issue, so I started it using the jump leads and my other vehicle. Took it for a good run and thought all was fine.
However, the next time I started it up the faults started.

No indicators,
No Full beam
No rear wiper,
No fog lights,
No screen washer,
Headlights always on when ignition is on, regardless of switch position.

I was advised to change the battery as a dodgy battery can cause these kind of issues. I have done this but it hasn't rectified the issues.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Check the light switches, steering wheel switches and stalks aren’t stuck down.

Ideally need to get fault codes read and proper diagnosis done.

Jump starting it may have fried the body controller
 
Before panic sets in try cleaning all earths to body as a million and one crazy faults can be a bad earth
 
Cheers for the quick replies.
Switches don’t seem to be an issue. I’m hoping a friend can get a diagnostic tool on it tomorrow, so we’ll see what shows up. There aren’t any warning lights showing by the way.
Is there a diagram available showing earthing points?
seems bizarre that it’s only happened after jump starting it, hope it hasn’t screwed up any relays/modules!
 
It's possible BCU has been damaged by the jump start. It's suggested that modern vehicles with large amounts of electronics aren't jump started without protected jump leads.
 
You may have spiked the ECU or a BCU did you connect the jump leads as so. connect both red booster cables to the +positive terminals on both cars, connect the black booster cable from the donor car to the battery -negative terminal, then the car that is being jumped to a good earth point unpainted surface if possible, at least 0.5 from the battery, check all cable are secure and clear of moving parts.

Start the donor car allow to idle a few minutes, then try starting the car that is discharged, only crank the engine for 15 second intervals, once you have both engines running normally allow them to idle for about two minutes, before switching of the donor car and disconnecting the cables, do not switch on any electrical circuits on previously disabled car until the cables have been removed.

Disconnect the booster cables in the exact reversal procedure used to connect them, always disconnect the black cable from the disabled car first, the above help to alleviate any spikes to a ECU or BCU.
 
I had a diagnostic check using an OBD II last night and zero faults were detected by a couple of different software tools.
Going to try and get it booked in with an auto electrician
 
FreelanderOwl said:
I had a diagnostic check using an OBD II last night and zero faults were detected by a couple of different software tools.
Going to try and get it booked in with an auto electrician
Click to expand...

OBD2 is basic engine codes only. You need an all systems diagnostic session, with something like an IID diagnostic tool.
 
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