domino

domino

Well-Known Member
Haven't been able to find this on the forum.

After my previous posts re drying things out (and everything I took out), the radio now has a permanent buzz. Even if its sitting waiting for the code to be entered, it sits there buzzing away. If I only have the grey connector plugged in, its quiet. If I plug in the brown connector, is considerably louder. I've checked the plugs themselves and they're all good.

Uploading a video to YouTube to demonstrate it but until then, any suggestions on what the issue might be? I have the Alpine unit.

 
I've had a similar noise wiggle the connector and it goes away, just a crap connector i think with loose terminals. Mine seemed clean enough
 
The buzzing matey, the buzzing...
download.jpeg :p;)
 
I bought a box of solder bullet connectors that have marine grade resin to seal them.

Really not looking forward to that job and the resulting back ache.
 
I cured the leak into the pollen filter box with a lid that went under the metalwork. It'll never leak again and hasn't :D. You won't need the resin if it never leaks. ;)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I wouldn’t replace a known to grot up connector with 19 little ones. Better off soldering them up permanently with heatshrink/grease. You’ll never need to unplug them for anything.
Click to expand...
They were only put there for use on the assembly line. They never took into account the problems they cause in the future.
 
before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something
 
romanrob said:
before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something
Click to expand...

I guess my 'beef' with that is that everything was fine before I stripped the carpets etc out. Of course, that doesn't mean something hasn't gone wrong in the meantime.

It is, after all, a P38.
 
romanrob said:
before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something
Click to expand...

The amps get balanced audio from the radio & earth via those connectors. Any one of the three wires is enough to cause buzzing.

If the connectors are green & corroded then best thing is to bypass them by soldering & heat-shrinking the wires. If the amps are bad, then re-soldering the PCB should help. Much cheaper the do the soldering first.
 
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