Datatek
Well-Known Member
The gauge is on normal from 85C to at least 105C on the P38 diesel, maybe higher but I did not fancy going further.
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It's definitely not linear, i think there's some logic going on that takes into account how quick the engine is heating up, or not
Never been near the red. I rarely tow that much weight these so haven't seen it in a while.
Unless there's a problem it should never get to the red, at least not on a petrol
Nor the oil burner. To be fair it almost never shifts from 12 o'clock once warm. Towing a big load up a 1 in 2 hill seriously works the diesel though.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Here is the new rad - and I did it all by myself... which as regular readers know I always have to distinguish between 'I' when I really mean the Royal 'We' - meaning someone else did it - and 'I' when I mean I actually did something myself!
Had to do a bit of jiggery pokery on the locating flanges (ooh that sounds technical - bound to be the wrong phrase)
But once in;
And the old one;
And in the process of removing it I realised there is nothing wrong with it - just a bit muddy - but the new one gives increased cooling, and when I (Royal 'We') have added a new OEM Fan as well it should be arctic!
Had to do a bit of jiggery pokery on the locating flanges (ooh that sounds technical - bound to be the wrong phrase)
But once in;
And the old one;
And in the process of removing it I realised there is nothing wrong with it - just a bit muddy - but the new one gives increased cooling, and when I (Royal 'We') have added a new OEM Fan as well it should be arctic!
Attachments
That does look nice. Is it thicker with more surface area like the original?
Remind me how much that cost?
You need to check the top face meets the baffle inside, mine didn't!! I just tapped it gently down to meet the baffle. Otherwise aprt from the awful stop start welding, it's does a great job
Sorted squire
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
It is thicker, and much shinier, and no plastic - and not expensive. £189.99
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351987760994
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Thank you Sir.You need to check the top face meets the baffle inside, mine didn't!! I just tapped it gently down to meet the baffle. Otherwise aprt from the awful stop start welding, it's does a great job
Sorted squire
I had exactly that issue - a bit of being with a hammer/chisel - and some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet worked a treat.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Ah - a perfect radiator. Good question, but the old one wasn't black either - just dull grey, and in my case, quite a lot of brown!
What happened to the old copper/brass ones?
OAT antifreeze ate the solder
What a progression that was, I'd of thought economics
That's why they have plastic bitsWhat a progression that was, I'd of thought economics
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Too heavy and expensive, plastic is cheap and light. I have a custom made copper RAD in the LHD P38, it's massive and weighs a ton.
A good upgrade!