JamesBB

Active Member
I think i may have found my coolant leak. The radiator.

It is only 3 years old.
No signs of damage, no visible cracks top or bottom.

I reverse flushed it, then filled with plain water. No leaks. left and monitored most of Saturday, no leaks consistently.

Re-plumbed the thermostat and surrounding hoses. They all look clean and no signs of damage. I was suspect of the hose clamps I had on there stamped with Pearl and purchased from Halfords. So I re-fitted the original LR tension clamps.

Re-fill coolant, cleaned any spillages and left overnight. This morning, no real leaks, except what looked to be condensation on some lower hoses, nothing much. Dried all that up and again monitored for 2 - 3 hours. All dry, no signs of leaks.

Start engine, burp hoses, top up etc as per Rave. Starts to come up to temp, top hose nearing 70 degrees, rad still only 15-18 degrees. Stat not opened yet.

Check underneath, dripping under rad.

There was a small flow of coolant out of the bleed hose at the top of the rad, mopped that up, but inevitably some would have run down. The fan seems to have sprayed it about the inside of the cowling which was dry before.

Damn thing. Near 2 days lost and I still have a leak.:mad:
 
Right, now it has cooled I dried up where the fan has sprayed. The rad itself is bone dry along all the fins. Dried underneath again and re-clamped the lower hose, again as I could see a sign of seeping coolant.

Fingers crossed, again.
 
Right, now it has cooled I dried up where the fan has sprayed. The rad itself is bone dry along all the fins. Dried underneath again and re-clamped the lower hose, again as I could see a sign of seeping coolant.

Fingers crossed, again.
When I had this problem on my RRC it turned out to be two weepy little pinholes on the rad. When the car was turned off, the heat of the radiator would dry the coolant so they were hard to spot when looking for them after the fact.
 
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issue with mine was hairline cracks in the top ( the plastic header bit )... i mean like super fine.. they didn't open up until it was hot !! sounds like a common fault... so worth a look mate
 
issue with mine was hairline cracks in the top ( the plastic header bit )... i mean like super fine.. they didn't open up until it was hot !! sounds like a common fault... so worth a look mate

I suspected that too. I will run it up again in he next day or so and have a look for leaks again.
I am sure the coolant around the cowling was from the overflow/bleed hole that I disconnected for a moment to complete the air bleed.
The coolant along the bottom of the rad seems to have come from the lower hose being incorrectly clamped.

If it continues I will look closer at a rad replacement. In the meantime I am not driving it to be safe.
Cheers
 
Changed the lower hose now, still frigging leaking.
I am going to have to take the rad out and take it to be pressure tested somewhere.
Utter nightmare, sick and tired of it.:Cry:
 
Changed the lower hose now, still frigging leaking.
I am going to have to take the rad out and take it to be pressure tested somewhere.
Utter nightmare, sick and tired of it.:Cry:

Get the system static tested. Or stick a bit of rad weld in it. Don't believe the stories of it blocking the matrix up they are bull ****.
 
If your system is knackered and already silted up maybe, if in good condition no problem.

My WP, hoses and rad are all effectively new, rad being the oldest at 2.5 years.
Coolant is changed every 2 years max.

I got some Bars Leaks, 2 new clamps and some more antifreeze.
I will try reclamping first, top up and cross fingers.

If not the the Bars leaks goes in.
 
My WP, hoses and rad are all effectively new, rad being the oldest at 2.5 years.
Coolant is changed every 2 years max.

I got some Bars Leaks, 2 new clamps and some more antifreeze.
I will try reclamping first, top up and cross fingers.

If not the the Bars leaks goes in.

Just follow the instructions.
 
My WP, hoses and rad are all effectively new, rad being the oldest at 2.5 years.
Coolant is changed every 2 years max.

I got some Bars Leaks, 2 new clamps and some more antifreeze.
I will try reclamping first, top up and cross fingers.

If not the the Bars leaks goes in.

Don't use the liquid Bars leak, use the "dog turd" type, its far more effective.
 
Don't use the liquid Bars leak, use the "dog turd" type, its far more effective.

+1 The dog turd pellets do seem to give the best results.

The old way on the farms was to break a couple of eggs into the radiator before startup, theory was the egg protein would set in the hole in the rad as it heated up. Havent tried that myself, though! :D
 

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