Julien_Paris · Sep 8, 2020

Hi all,

To those who changed form original LR MTF94 to ---> Difflock Evo1 or Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAW 75W-80, did you notice any difference by making the 1st/2d and 2d/3rd changing smoother while changing up fast and high REV ?

Many thanks

Henry_b · Sep 8, 2020

Synchro/Baulk ring issues from what I can gather..

Julien_Paris · Sep 8, 2020

Henry_b said:
Synchro/Baulk ring issues from what I can gather..

Hi Thanks for your reply,
From what I read, yes it may be the synchros BUT I read too that these are not fast gearboxes, and that I should not up-shift quickly at high rev from 1st to 2d and 2d to 3d. I have to say that I have no grind/crunch going down the gears at any rev.
Some on the forums say that these gearboxes shouldn’t been rushed. And they will grind from new if rushed. Other say that they fixed problem by replacing syncro. So I’ m very confused.
Is this a normal behavior or not ? Many Thanks for your feedback
Julien

owas · Sep 8, 2020

I can fly through my lt77 box with a slick shift, nothings gone bang yet

Julien_Paris · Sep 8, 2020

owas said:
I can fly through my lt77 box with a slick shift, nothings gone bang yet

Even high reving rpm owas ? Or you stay like 2 or 3 second Max in 1st and 2d ? Thanks

Al2O3 · Sep 8, 2020

Julien_Paris said:
Hi all,

To those who changed form original LR MTF94 to ---> Difflock Evo1 or Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAW 75W-80, did you notice any difference by making the 1st/2d and 2d/3rd changing smoother while changing up fast and high REV ?

Many thanks

Yes, I've used the Evo 1 in my R380. It transforms the gearbox in to modern, smooth unit. I've currently got Smith and Allen in it, which I'm sure is fine, but I've got a standard 1st to 2nd notchy R380 box. Next change I'm planning on using Evo 1 again. It puts a smile on your face when it's in, but the cost is painful

discomania · Sep 9, 2020

Julien_Paris said:
Hi all,

To those who changed form original LR MTF94 to ---> Difflock Evo1 or Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAW 75W-80, did you notice any difference by making the 1st/2d and 2d/3rd changing smoother while changing up fast and high REV ?

Many thanks

This will sounds like a dig, it isn't, it is just truth/anecdotal evidence, but you are not changing gear well if you cannot change gears without a crunch or grind on a worn box.

I can change gear on my R380 with NO clutch once moving off, using the clutch, people have become far to accustomed to syncromesh boxes and have lost all skill or a gear change.

Drive it like a truck, plan, don't slam it through the gears like you are driving a sports car on a track day, a blip from the throttle on a downshift will help you too. When I was a teenager our Land Rover gearbox started to wear a bit, started in 2nd but got worse but my parents lived with it after a farmer friend pointed out that you don't even need the clutch once it is going. My mother used to drive it like a champ with no gear-griding! I eventually got that Land Rover and drove it for another few years still on the original gearbox.

So, slow down, you can still drive it perfectly briskly, just learn how to change gear like the old-boys and you will not have an issue.

discomania · Sep 9, 2020

Julien_Paris said:
...and that I should not up-shift quickly at high rev from 1st to 2d and 2d to 3d. I have to say that I have no grind/crunch going down the gears at any rev.

No yo should not, it is a Land Rover, drive it like a big old truck!

discomania · Sep 9, 2020

owas said:
I can fly through my lt77 box with a slick shift, nothings gone bang yet

You are probably more attuned to your gearbox and can change gears when you are meant to.

I think the skill of driving is slowing disappearing, but those who still posses it can get more from their cars.

I even drive my "cars" with some gearbox care and the shifts are always silky smooth.

Colthebrummie · Sep 9, 2020

I agree with discomania, changing gear on a landy is more about timing than using high tech oils. If getting from one set of traffic lights to the next in the shortest possible time is important, get a motorbike.

Col

JimS · Sep 9, 2020

Just changed the oil in my R380 using Smith & Allen MTF94 and it seems fine. I've got a slickshift to make it less like stirring a bowl of porridge, doesn't seem to crunch between gears even the 1st to 2nd when you pull out of a junction and floor it, maybe I've just psychological adjusted my driving style to eliminate the crunch! Next time I'm out in it I'll have a play.

tottot · Sep 9, 2020

I also learned to drive changing with out using the clutch, once drove a Transit home 30 mls after the cable snapped.
Many today use the clutch like an on/off switch once moving, taking a little time to release is being kind to the system and helps things last.

Al2O3 · Sep 9, 2020

discomania said:
This will sounds like a dig, it isn't, it is just truth/anecdotal evidence, but you are not changing gear well if you cannot change gears without a crunch or grind on a worn box.

I can change gear on my R380 with NO clutch once moving off, using the clutch, people have become far to accustomed to syncromesh boxes and have lost all skill or a gear change.

Drive it like a truck, plan, don't slam it through the gears like you are driving a sports car on a track day, a blip from the throttle on a downshift will help you too. When I was a teenager our Land Rover gearbox started to wear a bit, started in 2nd but got worse but my parents lived with it after a farmer friend pointed out that you don't even need the clutch once it is going. My mother used to drive it like a champ with no gear-griding! I eventually got that Land Rover and drove it for another few years still on the original gearbox.

So, slow down, you can still drive it perfectly briskly, just learn how to change gear like the old-boys and you will not have an issue.

I've always changed gear slowly and, even though I say so myself, I'm bloody brilliant and blipping the throttle to get everything synchronised before sliding the gear in. However, I've found the Evo 1 adds a whole new feeling to the process. I'm too tight to pay for it though

lightning · Sep 9, 2020

The funny thing is, on our 90 TD5 l
changed to the Evo oil and it made the gearshift much sweeter.

So l tried it in my 110 TD5 and it was actually
worse, so l drained it out and went back to Syntrans 75w/90 which improved it no end!

Al2O3 · Sep 9, 2020

lightning said:
The funny thing is, on our 90 TD5 l
changed to the Evo oil and it made the gearshift much sweeter.

So l tried it in my 110 TD5 and it was actually
worse, so l drained it out and went back to Syntrans 75w/90 which improved it no end!

Interesting! This stuff? Amazon product
It’s a lot cheaper than Evo1

Edit
That’s odd, the page I copied from Amazon said this

RRP: £23.24
Price: £13.82
FREE Delivery on your first eligible order to UK or Ireland.
You Save: £9.42 (41%)
Arrives: Sep 17 - 18t
Fastest delivery: Tuesday, Sep 15 Details
In stock on September 13, 2020.
Order it now.
Add to Basket
Buy Now

Secure transaction
Dispatched from and sold by Amazon.

where as when I’ve pasted it the picture says £17.69

Edit again!
The price has just changed

to the original £13.82

jamesmartin · Sep 9, 2020

lightning said:
The funny thing is, on our 90 TD5 l
changed to the Evo oil and it made the gearshift much sweeter.

So l tried it in my 110 TD5 and it was actually
worse, so l drained it out and went back to Syntrans 75w/90 which improved it no end!

its the contact between gear cone and worn baulk ring,wear is never identical between gears or boxes so different oils will effect these differently

Al2O3 · Sep 9, 2020

jamesmartin said:
its the contact between gear cone and worn baulk ring,wear is never identical between gears or boxes so different oils will effect these differently

Hmmm, so I might not get the same improvement as I do when I fork out for the Evo1

jamesmartin · Sep 10, 2020

Al2O3 said:
Hmmm, so I might not get the same improvement as I do when I fork out for the Evo1

depends all you can do is try,when baulk rings grate as their worn ie is not tight enough to grip the gear cone your making up by using a thicker or a stickier oil

Julien_Paris · Sep 10, 2020

jamesmartin said:
depends all you can do is try,when baulk rings grate as their worn ie is not tight enough to grip the gear cone your making up by using a thicker or a stickier oil

Hi James,
Thanks a lot for all the valuable informations you give on this forum !

Have 3 small questions :
1- Didn't have the opportunity to drive a Def TD5 from new. So, my question : if a R380 is in good condition, are we supposed to be able to up-shift quick to 2d and 3rd with high REv/RPM without a grind/crunch ? or the limit and design of this type of gearbox don't permit to shift like a normal modern car ? In my case, if I don't rev high, and leave a slight pause (1 second) on neutral when upshifting from 1st/2d and 2d/3d, all is fine.

2 - Is Difflock Evo1 the same than Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAW 75W-80 ?

3- Do we have to wash the gearbox when we change from MTF94 (gold colour oil) to ATF/Difflock/Fuchs (which is red colour I think).

Thank you in advance for your reply and help !

jamesmartin · Sep 10, 2020

Julien_Paris said:
Hi James,
Thanks a lot for all the valuable informations you give on this forum !

Have 3 small questions :
1- Didn't have the opportunity to drive a Def TD5 from new. So, my question : if a R380 is in good condition, are we supposed to be able to up-shift quick to 2d and 3rd with high REv/RPM without a grind/crunch ? or the limit and design of this type of gearbox don't permit to shift like a normal modern car ? In my case, if I don't rev high, and leave a slight pause (1 second) on neutral when upshifting from 1st/2d and 2d/3d, all is fine.

2 - Is Difflock Evo1 the same than Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAW 75W-80 ?

3- Do we have to wash the gearbox when we change from MTF94 (gold colour oil) to ATF/Difflock/Fuchs (which is red colour I think).

Thank you in advance for your reply and help !

it should shift without a crunch but it is never going to be a quick change between 2nd and 3rd due to design,youll cause premature baulk ring failure by trying to force the gears
not an expert on oils
oils can mix,no need to try and flush all oil out just drain

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