Barbados

Barbados

Active Member
Hi Mates,
I have started to work on my Landy again, almost full time now, she has been bought, stripped and been work in progress since Jan 2015..time goes by.

I will be installing the gear box soon, will change the oil before installing it..I would like to know if there is anything lately which is better that you guys would recommend for the gear box oil or are we still looking at the DIII ATF?

I used Red Line MTF in many older Euro Cars before and it worked like a charm but these landys are picky and better for some can be worse on this. I know the viscosity has to be low so that the oil/fluid can go between all the synchros, gears etc., and that some oils and fluids can cause some of the bearings races to spin in their respective housings..any current advice on what to use?
The gearbox has 265,000KM on it and is in fairly good shape.

Cheers and thanks.
 
The syn difflock lube is brilliant especially 1st to 2nd changes when cold.
I did try it in my well worn ever so slightly shagged lt77 that didnt go well and has to go back to atf pdq.
 
Hi Mates, yes MTF94 is what LR switched to from ATF. MTF94 is said to be in the weight range of 75W-80W with a viscosity at 10cSt at 100*C as opposed to ATF which is between 6.5 to 7.5cSt at 100*C
I am in the tropics where the humidity is high at times so ambient average temps are mostly 30*C or above most days.

So for me, cold weather "notchiness" will not be an issue..no cold temps here, so its a bit more critical for my R380 to be happy in the higher temps and maintaining minimum wear. I am not sure if LR specific MTF94 has the best additives/mods for the R380 or if there are comparable manufactures with the same specs, that's why I was asking if you guys knew of anything better. I wont be pulling tons of weight or any at all but I have rebuilt the engine completely and will be stepping up the HP and torque using a VNT and some tuning.
I know the Defender was not meant for speed nor any related performance but at the same time, its better to use the best products to protect it as much as you can.

Thanks for the replies,

Cheers.
 
Has your deafener got a gearbox oil cooler on it ? I presume it will have, as I further presume it is a ROW spec .... ? So, with a cooler fitted, I'd be more concerned with which additives are in the oil, specifically which friction modyfiers - though, given the price of either oil, you could try both for not a lot of money ;)

If there isn't a cooler, I'd fit one :)

I run MTF94 in SWMBO's D1, and I have to say it has transformed the box, both changing gear, and the noise in 5th - which simply isn't there any more :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
Has your deafener got a gearbox oil cooler on it ? I presume it will have, as I further presume it is a ROW spec .... ? So, with a cooler fitted, I'd be more concerned with which additives are in the oil, specifically which friction modyfiers - though, given the price of either oil, you could try both for not a lot of money ;)

If there isn't a cooler, I'd fit one :)

I run MTF94 in SWMBO's D1, and I have to say it has transformed the box, both changing gear, and the noise in 5th - which simply isn't there any more :)
Click to expand...

My Defender did not come with a gearbox oil cooler (its a row Spec) wish it did, will see if I can source one here or get an aftermarket one. There is Valvoline MTL94 locally but its in the 75-90W range.
Thanks.
 
Barbados said:
My Defender did not come with a gearbox oil cooler (its a row Spec) wish it did, will see if I can source one here or get an aftermarket one. There is Valvoline MTL94 locally but its in the 75-90W range.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

IME, the oil cooler adaptor (FTC2687?) is the expensive bit - the rest of the system can be made with just about anything..... perhaps we could a group buy to get the cost down - I'd certainly be interested....
Also IME, valvoline is fine oil - the viscosity sounds high - I'll check the viscosity of the carlube stuff here, and come back to you....
 
Disco1BFG said:
IME, the oil cooler adaptor (FTC2687?) is the expensive bit - the rest of the system can be made with just about anything..... perhaps we could a group buy to get the cost down - I'd certainly be interested....
Also IME, valvoline is fine oil - the viscosity sounds high - I'll check the viscosity of the carlube stuff here, and come back to you....
Click to expand...

@Barbados - Carlube MTF I have here is 75 - 80W, as per the link:-

http://www.carlube.co.uk/transmission-fluids/carlube-mtf-94-manual-transmission-fluid
 
My disco r380 box had atf in was crunchy when cold. Fine when warm. Mtf94 is better in my experience
 
I'm with lynall. I've used Difflock Evo 1 for years LINKY. Tried Smith and Allan MTF94 after reading a good review on LZ. Sometimes I'm struggling to find 2nd now. :eek: It's very expensive but, it transforms the gearbox. Your not sat there thinking 'I think this oil has helped my gearbox'. Your driving along thinking 'how the hell have I suddenly got a new, modern gearbox in my Landy'. I'm saving up. :)
 
The 100% fully synthetic oils always works well in my experience, I have no doubt that the Difflock Evo 1 is great too..the problem with that is getting it here. I would shell out the cash on that easily knowing that it will work well and protect the internals from necessary wear. I have used Red Line while I was back home in Canada and had my Euro garage there, would be thrilled to get some the DE 1 here. I will ask around to see if I can get it shipped in.

Thanks Mates.
 
Barbados said:
The 100% fully synthetic oils always works well in my experience, I have no doubt that the Difflock Evo 1 is great too..the problem with that is getting it here. I would shell out the cash on that easily knowing that it will work well and protect the internals from necessary wear. I have used Red Line while I was back home in Canada and had my Euro garage there, would be thrilled to get some the DE 1 here. I will ask around to see if I can get it shipped in.

Thanks Mates.
Click to expand...
dexron 2 will protect your box, baulk rings are poor in an r380 each box would benefit from slightly different viscosity depending on baulkring fit to gear
 
James I did not take apart the gearbox..PO said it was working fine with no issues, so thats why I wanted to keep its good state for longevity hence the oil question. Yes its funny with the R380 and I am guessing the LT77 too, how their condition will determine which oil and viscosity they should have.

In some old gearboxes (non LR) which are not prone to premature wear, synthetic oil brings them to life as Lynall and Al203 claim with the R380.
I have no doubt about your advice and knowledge, but since I have never driven this Landy, I have no knowledge what it sounds or feels like. I will have to drive it, listen to how it sounds and feels, use some different viscosity oils and observe how she responds.

Cheers.
 
Barbados said:
James I did not take apart the gearbox..PO said it was working fine with no issues, so thats why I wanted to keep its good state for longevity hence the oil question. Yes its funny with the R380 and I am guessing the LT77 too, how their condition will determine which oil and viscosity they should have.

In some old gearboxes (non LR) which are not prone to premature wear, synthetic oil brings them to life as Lynall and Al203 claim with the R380.
I have no doubt about your advice and knowledge, but since I have never driven this Landy, I have no knowledge what it sounds or feels like. I will have to drive it, listen to how it sounds and feels, use some different viscosity oils and observe how she responds.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
just change oil regular.,failure is usually due to too long intervals,lt77 rarely suffered baulk ring issues normally main shaft wear
 
I intend to James, its so much cheaper to change the oils and other fluids to keep the entire landy happy and wear down to a minimum as opposed to costly repairs. The island here is smallish but still the constant stop and go is hard on the engine, gearbox and so are the oils too. I have a friend who had a 130 as his daily driver, he told me every month he greased all the crosses and changed the engine oil once every 2 months, gear box and diffs bi annually and thats on this same small island.

Cant beat frequent maintenance and preventative maintenance..strong believer in that.
 
Barbados said:
I intend to James, its so much cheaper to change the oils and other fluids to keep the entire landy happy and wear down to a minimum as opposed to costly repairs. The island here is smallish but still the constant stop and go is hard on the engine, gearbox and so are the oils too. I have a friend who had a 130 as his daily driver, he told me every month he greased all the crosses and changed the engine oil once every 2 months, gear box and diffs bi annually and thats on this same small island.

Cant beat frequent maintenance and preventative maintenance..strong believer in that.
Click to expand...
yes drain clean oil out and fresh in equals long life ,dirty oil out and lifes all ready reduced, which i see all to often
 
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