Harold 4x4

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #1

I'm just about to replace the fuel lift pump (under the bonnet next to the filter) and hope to do it without breaking any connections......

Anyone got any tips for undoing the quick-release connectors so I don't break them, and is it easy enough to buy just the connectors and refit new ones when changing the pump?


Are they on this guide?

http://www.wjjeeps.com/misc/quick_connect.pdf

 

Last edited: Nov 29, 2011

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #2

I wouldn't foresee any problems with this job.

I use a pair of angled smooth-jawed long-nose pliers to grip them and they just come away. (I bought the pliers in Carrefour, by the way)

Any pliers will do really I suppose.

Why do you think you might damage them?

 

Harold 4x4

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #3

No problems so far, but as ever it's never quite as it seems...

Fuel pump, filter and housing all out, no bother really , but the connections were not all 'quick release' - as it's been replaced before I guess the previous guy had to change some fittings. There is a re-useable spring clip on one connection, but it does the same job as a jubillee clip so I can use that if it's difficult to put back.

Only hiccup is the fuel filter which seems to be stubborn in coming out of the housing!

Also, there is a spade connector (which a wire attaches to) at the top of the fuel filter housing - wedged in between the plastic and the filter body. No mention of it in the RAVE manual?

I have a few pics for anyone else about to do this basic task, which I'll upload later.


re. connector problems? I was reading a few earlier comments which said they easily snap/break.

 

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #4

OK - I understand now that you may have a collection of some non-original clips and so on.

Best bet then might to get some new small jubilee type ones for your own peace of mind as much as anything else.

The spade terminal will probably be an earth just as an extra security / safety measure in case of static electrickery causing a spark.

Not really necessary if you have a diesel ,but if petrol then it's another matter, and possibly a very good idea.

 

D

Dann

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #5

WD40 should help remove the old filter, they are always very tight in the container. I find it useful to do some of the work through the hole in the inner wing by the steering rack. Be careful with the 5 way fuel line connector just below the pump, this is easy to snap especially in cold weather should too much force be applied to the pipes.

 

S

Sean

Banned

• Nov 29, 2011

• #6

Dann said:

WD40 should help remove the old filter, they are always very tight in the container.

Click to expand...

why don't peeps use a proper dismantling fluid, PlusGas for example is so much more effective than WD40

a strap wrench should shift it without having to resort to fluids

 

Harold 4x4

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #7

Unfortunately you can't use a strap wrench due to the design of the plastic holder, it has to come up about 2 cms before it can be twisted.

 

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #8

I know it won't help you this time but when I fit these in both the underbonnet and in the wheel-arch later type - I coat them with a good smear of vaseline /petroleum jelly.

If you think the job you're doing is tricky - have a look at the comments for the wheel-arch bar-steward job. Grrrr

I want to have 2 minutes in a locked room with the 'designer' - that's me and my baseball bat.

 

Harold 4x4

Active Member

• Nov 29, 2011

• #9

It's not tricky as such, just an inconvenience - tricky is removing the radiator from my Triumph Rocket, repairing it, then putting it back again..