Can you take a photo by the thermostat
Please. We can then see what is stopping the other end.
+1 on check that valve.
Normally just a raised steel pipe connection
 
if one side is blocked could just be an air lock preventing operation , the heater matrix often gets blocked as well give it a flush out to check flow can pass through it.
 
So you have the tap rather than the cable operated valve. It’s probably blocked solid with old cyclists.
Unscrew it and poke it clear or pop it in the dish washer a couple of times.
Tell the Mrs it’s off the juicer.
 
we have a car which stopped getting warm even after flushing the system, so I reversed the heater pipes and it has been warm ever since, about 2 years now, keep meaning to switch the pipes back but like most things I never get round to it
 
That tap looks closed, its fully anti-clockwise for heat. You can put central heating cleaner in the cooling system and run with it for a while.
 
Thanks, Intersting idea, may try it, never heard of that before. When I had a blocked head - the opposite of the OPs issue - the heater had to be on full all the time, I got really good advice from Fernox, it was an alloy V8 and I really wanted to avoid taking the heads off. Fernox had worked with the RR Owners Club to work out the best way to de-furr ally/iron/copper engines.
 
Hicap phill said:
Can you take a photo by the thermostat
Click to expand...
Here are a couple of photos of the thermostat.
I had flushed the heater. It is clean and open problem must be from somewhere else.
For the time being a small size blanket is proving to be very useful in the truck! One per passenger.
 

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if you have washed the heater that valve is the next thing.
Disconnect the heater pipe by the thermostat & put a blank on the engine.
If the valve is working water should flow out when engine is running.
 
If the valve has been closed a long time there could be a plug of muck in the outlet from the pump, try taking the valve off and poking the hole clear.
 
nickjaxe said:
Has the heater box been by-passed?
Click to expand...
Yes. I put the two hoses together temporarily.

OK, I have cleaned the valve and hoses (now water is flowing beautifully) and now I have to take out the heater core and weld the broken pipe going in.
Is it as simple as opening the bolts around the heater box and taking the thing out? Do I need some special tools or wrench and stuff? If anybody has done this before any advice is greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance.
 
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Shouldn’t have any trouble save a few rusted fixings. Might be easier to braze the pipe unless your a good welder. I know I wouldn’t fancy it. :oops:
Then again the heat may destroy the whole thing. :eek:
 
Show us a picture of where it broken. You may be able to solder or braze it but its also very easy to end up with a melted pile of bits if you go even slightly wrong. The general rule is to fill it with water except where you want to repair and heat that fast, if you heat slow bits will start falling off as the heat conducts to places you dont want it and the solder melts.
 
PC070072.jpg PC070078b.jpg PC070083.jpg Thanks everybody for your valuable help through the process.
As photos show the pipe that bring the water to the heater was broken. I took the heater out and found a plastic hose that fitted inside the pipe and also inside the heater connecting part perfectly. After some sanding and washing with alcohol I used a 2 part glue to glue the plastic sleeve inside the core and then glue the pipe to the body of heater. Fortunately the edges matched perfectly and the new plastic sleeve makes the connection strong. I have installed and connected the hoses and remember why I had not used the heater for years. It is as hot as picture of a fireplace! (although it makes a lot of noise), but at least in theory I have a heater now.





PC070072.jpg PC070078b.jpg View attachment 195863 PC070083.jpg
 
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