Datatek
Well-Known Member
Tony, it doesn't work instantly, it took a couple of hundred miles and a trip up the autoroute before it completely cleared the problem
Tony, it doesn't work instantly, it took a couple of hundred miles and a trip up the autoroute before it completely cleared the problem
Will give it a try Keith. Anythings better than laying on your back with TQF dripping in your face. At my time of life i can do without that. Been there many times before, got a bloody wardrobe full of T shirts.
Wammers mine has started this "flaring" occasionaly, the other problem I had with the gearbox losing signal has cleared up, if I put it in sport it does not happen (Flaring). I have never worked on an auto box except to change oil and filters, where about is the valve block and whats recommended to O/haul it.
Cheers
Davie
PS its got nothing to do with the coils ha ha
Cheers
Davie
PS its got nothing to do with the coils ha ha
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Wammers mine has started this "flaring" occasionaly, the other problem I had with the gearbox losing signal has cleared up, if I put it in sport it does not happen (Flaring). I have never worked on an auto box except to change oil and filters, where about is the valve block and whats recommended to O/haul it.
Cheers
Davie
PS its got nothing to do with the coils ha ha
Drop the sump on the box there is the valve block. I wouldn't fancy touching it in situe, lots of springs to drop
From my investigations, I reckon the flaring can also be caused by wiring/connector problems. For example, the autobox ECU calls for a torque reduction from the Engine ECU when a change is about to take place. If the signal is lost it will stress the box. Loss of speed signal may also cause it. Bad connections from the ECU to the valve solenoids may also cause a lazy change. Lots to check before you rip the box apart.
Wammers mine has started this "flaring" occasionaly, the other problem I had with the gearbox losing signal has cleared up, if I put it in sport it does not happen (Flaring). I have never worked on an auto box except to change oil and filters, where about is the valve block and whats recommended to O/haul it.
Cheers
Davie
PS its got nothing to do with the coils ha ha
The valve block is the item you see when you remove the sump. It is not a DIY job to clean it, if you don't know what you're doing. It is full of springs of different rates that have to go back where they came from, shuttle valves, ball bearing stop valves Etc. You can get a service tray for them with a place for each item to be placed in as it is stripped. Get one of the springs in the wrong place it won't work properly.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Ha ha ha suspension and other mechanicals beautifully smooth. Funny but had a tentative offer today if I want to sell, guy just got rid of his TD6, regrets getting rid of his P38 before it, said the P38 is much better in the snow
Davie
Then he saw it had coils and backed out.
Went for a good run this morning, she is fine 1-2, 2-3 but sometimes flares between 3-4 and on kick down in 4th but not all the time. I am away tomorrow till xmas but think I will put her up on the ramp when I get home. If I remove the valve block from the gearbox is there any springs or gubbings at that stage or are they all retained in the block. Once off it should not faze me as I worked quite a bit with hydraulics in a previous job. Need to find if there is an O/haul kit, just want to know what I'm playing with before I start. My poor old dad is also going to be roped in as he is a retired aircraft chief engineer so good moral support.
Davie
Davie
Datatek
Well-Known Member
There are overhaul kits for the box, not sure about the valve block. Do a Google search on ZF4HP22e and you will find lots of info including strip down manuals. Lots of info on Bimmer sites too.
I'd try the Lucas transmission fix first
Thats me away for a week but this morning on a 70 mile drive she started flaring in all gears, put it in 3 and no flaring or slipping, if i drive it in 3 and use D as an O/drive on the open road there is no problem. Only thing that was in my mind is that I changed the fluid and filter last month, could the new fluid have disloged some crap and is starting to block the filter but suppose that would also cause a problem in 3 and not just D. Going to change the fluid, filter, add a bottle of Lucas and check out the valve block when home and cross my fingers.
Davie
Davie
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Have you got enough oil in there? You check with the box cold and engine idling, move through all gear positions and then check the level
in the later models without an under bonnet filler....how do you check the level with engine running.....??
Obvious I know, start engine get under vehicle...but I wouldn't want or feel safe doing so....
Other than a 2/4 post lift, anyone any tips??
Obvious I know, start engine get under vehicle...but I wouldn't want or feel safe doing so....
Other than a 2/4 post lift, anyone any tips??
