holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Holy ****, this is me and the loony !
Holy ****, this is me and the loony !
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
It might be my circus but you are definitely one of the monkeys 
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
I’ve already got one you nutter !
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Tit
I have pulled the M62 out of my 2004 RR. I did it in my garage with a cherry picker. I put the car on jack stands, set to high for the first part of the process, but when it came time to pull the engine (I did not have enough height clearance) I lowered the jack stands so the RR nose tilted down slightly. Not too difficult at all. Drive shafts are not bad, diff just unbolt, pull to side an inch (until it disconnects and clears) and leave it there. A/C can stay charged if you disconnect it and wiggle it around when pulling. Taking off lines is easier. Power steering - just disconnect and let it drop. Remove fan shroud easy - some like to pull the radiator for more room. Leave headers on and disconnect the two bolts going to exhaust. The harness is not too big a deal. Some take off the entire harness at the box. For the tranny if you take off the intake it will give you better access to certain bolts. I did all this myself. Install I had a helper for about two hours.
The process is spelled out very well in the Rave manual.
I had to swap two engines out. The second time I paid a guy $500 USD to do it - that was for remove and install. He said it took him under 10 hours. As it was the middle of the winter I was not too excited to do it myself and for $50 an hour I was very happy.
The process is spelled out very well in the Rave manual.
I had to swap two engines out. The second time I paid a guy $500 USD to do it - that was for remove and install. He said it took him under 10 hours. As it was the middle of the winter I was not too excited to do it myself and for $50 an hour I was very happy.
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
That’s great thank you.
I had a read through Rave and it sounded too simple. I’m hoping i don’t need to take it out of course.
If the parts turn up I’m hopefully testing the oil pressure to the vanos units this weekend.
What was wrong with your engines - cylinder bores or timing chain crash ?
I had a read through Rave and it sounded too simple. I’m hoping i don’t need to take it out of course.
If the parts turn up I’m hopefully testing the oil pressure to the vanos units this weekend.
What was wrong with your engines - cylinder bores or timing chain crash ?
My 2004 Range Rover is on its fourth engine. Engine one died under the second owner when the rubber PCV vent tubes collapsed. He has a used engine installed. I bought the RR not operating when second owner let the timing chain guides go so far down they both fragmented and ran metal on chain. Upon disassembly I found the oil pick up tube completely blocked and the cylinder bores were destroyed. Metal sparkle was in the entire system. So both cylinder bores and timing guide - but the root cause was timing chain guides failing resulting in engine oil starvation. No valves were bent. Third engine was cylinder bores caused by fuel wash. On the coldest day of the year my wife just kept trying to start it and destroyed the engine. I believe this engine was bad to start with as it burned oil and a serious rate.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Quality German engineering again
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
That is quite a list !
I have seen the M62 engines with cylinder liners but not many companies offer the service so i guess it is just a case of keep trying until you find a good engine. Nikasil / Alusil is a nice idea until you get the smallest scratch in one bore and the whole engine is toast unless somebody is willing to put liners in it which is rare. I am hoping mine is ok but the rattle has got to go. One piece of kit i ordered early last week didn't turn up so i haven't touched mine this weekend.
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
I suppose if it does have to come out we should do something interesting .....
