tyronemullarkey
New Member
If you dont mind me asking, how would that make it smoke ?
If you dont mind me asking, how would that make it smoke ?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The theory goes that, an increase in crank case pressure forces more oil than normal past the oil control rings and valve guide oil seals. This contaminates the air charge causing it to smoke. It also increases pumping losses in the crankcase. In reality it's going to be a tiny but noticeable amount.
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tyronemullarkey
New Member
I put another one in today and it has not made a jot of differance.
Any other ideas that i can try myself before I go down the injector (expensive) route. I think that I read somthing about a boost sensor ??
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
get your engine flushed, or try a forte engine cleaner(cheaper option)
Forte Air Intake Cleaner Aerosol
(requires new oil and filters once done)
my nephew works in a garage that caiters for a lot of taxi drivers in sheffield and they swear by this for mpg and a better response from the throttle, they have also just bought a machine that flushed the oil and fuel system which they also crave over its worth a try with nothing to be lost really.
could be wrong here but if you dissconnect the turbo for a short run would that rule it out as the error if it doesnt smoke?
Forte Air Intake Cleaner Aerosol
(requires new oil and filters once done)
my nephew works in a garage that caiters for a lot of taxi drivers in sheffield and they swear by this for mpg and a better response from the throttle, they have also just bought a machine that flushed the oil and fuel system which they also crave over its worth a try with nothing to be lost really.
could be wrong here but if you dissconnect the turbo for a short run would that rule it out as the error if it doesnt smoke?
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
now its not a freebie but my old common rail berlingo did this when the air filter was clogged and after id put petrol in it but was fine if i took the filter out, so once petrol through the system and air filter started to clog slightly it was better once id removed the filter(not the best solution).
i presume uve done an egr blank etc sorryt if uve posted that..
i presume uve done an egr blank etc sorryt if uve posted that..
tyronemullarkey
New Member
yep, done a full service with all filters and oils. silicone hose, Piersburg MAF,
synergy 2A box and EGR bypass
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
sounds daft try a few miles / short run with out the air filter, and maybe whip the crank breather off for a short run just to see what happens..
other than that maybe a compression test perhaps the rings are going?
Kizzeh
Well-Known Member
If rings were going it would be blue smoke. If it's black it would be air/fuel mixture incorrect. This is normally from a hole in the boost pipes or blocked air filter or similar but they have been changed and you seem to have done all the easy things. my guess would be a sensor going out if parameters or faulty injectors.
I'm not really too hot on all that the sensors do but I know with a ronbox it can show up problems that you never noticed. Might be worth taking it to a garage and getting them to look at the codes and the sensors. A good bit of kit instead of your basic code readers will show all of your sensors values and live data to see If it's working as it should
I'm not really too hot on all that the sensors do but I know with a ronbox it can show up problems that you never noticed. Might be worth taking it to a garage and getting them to look at the codes and the sensors. A good bit of kit instead of your basic code readers will show all of your sensors values and live data to see If it's working as it should
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
Turbo seals? Could it be worth getting n a krypton (presume you can with diesels?)
regarding the crankcase breather / filter
might be worth checking that the breather valve is working as it should
ie that it's not sticking
~~~~~~~~~
i found that the large t-clamps that came with my silicone kit from dph weren't a great fit
they seemed a bit loose even when fully tightened
i replaced the large ones with a smaller size
although i guess if they were to leak slightly there would be an oily film around the join
and haven't read anyone having problems with those clamps as supplied
the one that joins the bottom intercooler outlet can come loose IF the clip does not sit behind the pipe lip
might be worth checking that the breather valve is working as it should
ie that it's not sticking
~~~~~~~~~
i found that the large t-clamps that came with my silicone kit from dph weren't a great fit
they seemed a bit loose even when fully tightened
i replaced the large ones with a smaller size
although i guess if they were to leak slightly there would be an oily film around the join
and haven't read anyone having problems with those clamps as supplied
the one that joins the bottom intercooler outlet can come loose IF the clip does not sit behind the pipe lip
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tyronemullarkey
New Member
yep, i think that the garage is my next port of call. Try to avoid them if I can as I am a tight yorkshire fella.!!!!
tyronemullarkey
New Member
i think one way to check that the crankcase breather is working as it should
be to start the engine then remove the oil dipstick
if the breather ain't breathing - the crankcase pressure will force oil up the dipstick tube
cleaning/checking the breather unit is fairly easy
remove the crankcase filter housing ( couple of torx bolts )
wash it in white spirits and check if the valve is moving properly
pic of breather unit attached - the orange bit is the valve thingee
and the device on the right is the bmw oil-separator unit which many ppl use instead of the lr-bog-roll-filter
be to start the engine then remove the oil dipstick
if the breather ain't breathing - the crankcase pressure will force oil up the dipstick tube
cleaning/checking the breather unit is fairly easy
remove the crankcase filter housing ( couple of torx bolts )
wash it in white spirits and check if the valve is moving properly
pic of breather unit attached - the orange bit is the valve thingee
and the device on the right is the bmw oil-separator unit which many ppl use instead of the lr-bog-roll-filter
Attachments
tyronemullarkey
New Member
All booked in for a diagnostic tomorrow. I will let you all know the results. Got to say that I am thinking that it is the injectors. Anyone replaced them themselves. Is it a hard job? I'm no mechanic but will tackle any job that isnt a major project. Once again, this is because i'm tight. The wife says that I am only one step from being Scottish 
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
All booked in for a diagnostic tomorrow. I will let you all know the results. Got to say that I am thinking that it is the injectors. Anyone replaced them themselves. Is it a hard job? I'm no mechanic but will tackle any job that isnt a major project. Once again, this is because i'm tight. The wife says that I am only one step from being Scottish
I think td4 needs to be coded at a inflated cost? Sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
Several people have done it.
I'm glad I didn't change mine and let the garage do it...... One of them was faulty as well as seized and they broke it trying to get it out. Cost a lot more because they are done on an exchange basis.
I personally wouldn't bother with getting them reconditioned. My injectors were supposedly reconditioned before I bought the Freelander. Well, they didn't last long. It was smoking within 2-3,000 miles. False economy as far as I'm concerned. Do it once and do it right.
I'm glad I didn't change mine and let the garage do it...... One of them was faulty as well as seized and they broke it trying to get it out. Cost a lot more because they are done on an exchange basis.
I personally wouldn't bother with getting them reconditioned. My injectors were supposedly reconditioned before I bought the Freelander. Well, they didn't last long. It was smoking within 2-3,000 miles. False economy as far as I'm concerned. Do it once and do it right.
tyronemullarkey
New Member
Hi Guys,
sorry that its been a while ( dad on his last legs, been a bad month ) Anyway, time for an update. I went for the diagnostics. I was told MAF signal was low and fuel pressure sensor was low. I have a synergy box on with a Piesburg MAF so I got a new Bosch one and it made no difference. I have now got a new pressure sensor with the overlay wiring harness. I have just fitted the harness but was unable to fit the sensor as I didnt have a deep 27mm socket. I will do that tomorrow. The harness made no difference. Hope its the sensor as I am running out of ideas. I did notice that with the new Bosch MAF that the engine ran really bad like the MAF was not working, any ideas ??
sorry that its been a while ( dad on his last legs, been a bad month ) Anyway, time for an update. I went for the diagnostics. I was told MAF signal was low and fuel pressure sensor was low. I have a synergy box on with a Piesburg MAF so I got a new Bosch one and it made no difference. I have now got a new pressure sensor with the overlay wiring harness. I have just fitted the harness but was unable to fit the sensor as I didnt have a deep 27mm socket. I will do that tomorrow. The harness made no difference. Hope its the sensor as I am running out of ideas. I did notice that with the new Bosch MAF that the engine ran really bad like the MAF was not working, any ideas ??
TriumphDave
Member
change the setting on the synergy as you've changed the maf.someone else will no doubt be along shortly and elaborate.
