weemac
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a plan. As always, your knowledge is appreciated.
Dropping the cradle makes me a bit less twitchy about using a grinder to slice the welds.
weemac
Well-Known Member
Don't be so hard on yourself. You're human, same as me. Humans can achieve great things.
I've found it isn't so much down to skills but courage and perceverance. You have to be willing to break the thing and do what it takes to fix it again.
Welcome to the forum by the way.
Thanks! yes your right regarding the breaking then fixing
weemac
Well-Known Member
After contemplating buying a parts car, we decided against it and visited a couple of chaps in't Midlands. Chucked a set of complete struts, a new O/S/R light lens (following a garage mishap) and both engine splash guards in't back of the van. Cheap as chips and crucially, not an entire Freelander.
Been busy with more cleaning and fitting one to the nearside front...
I'd cleaned and greased these threads at some point before... which was nice...
Been busy with more cleaning and fitting one to the nearside front...
I'd cleaned and greased these threads at some point before... which was nice...
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weemac
Well-Known Member
The 'new' struts are in OK shape. Once I got the old N/S one off, I realised how much better (despite the overall rusty appearance). Bearings are nice and smooth. A quick licking with the wire brushes, a bit of Rust Reformer and a couple of coats of Hycote Satin Black and it was ready to fit. Had to hammer the brake hose bracket back into shape.
There is one slight issue with this one, though. At some point, a total muppet has attempted to use a Torx bit where they really should have been using an Allen bit. The Torx bit has sheared off inside the allen hole, yay. Good job I ain't gotta split this assembly down but, like I say, cheap as chips.
Completed one side and, given how rusty the gearbox end casing is getting, I'm glad I picked up the splash guards, too.
There is one slight issue with this one, though. At some point, a total muppet has attempted to use a Torx bit where they really should have been using an Allen bit. The Torx bit has sheared off inside the allen hole, yay. Good job I ain't gotta split this assembly down but, like I say, cheap as chips.
Completed one side and, given how rusty the gearbox end casing is getting, I'm glad I picked up the splash guards, too.
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weemac
Well-Known Member
Back once again...
Back once again with the ill behaviour...
"Surface corrosion started in various places". Think that trumps your vague suspension component rust, @rob_bell
Failed MOT on the ball joints we didn't replace and had another lesson in why not to buy s***e. The cheapo wheel speed sensor I bought (to replace the BMW one I mullured for no good reason) gave up on the day of the test. Despite working when fitted. Scanner confirmed the NSR was at fault and threw a code for the brake pedal position sensor, too.
That's sort of the current situation. But lots done before that MOT so best we have a catch up.
Things continued on the OSF strut...
At this point, we decided to take the wheel arch liner off to check out the rust. You know? While there's a bit of space?
The image is blurry because I got tears on the camera. Couldn't leave it so a marathon ensued including returning to the NSF wheelarch. Just so you know, I'm passing on some of the tedium involved with another montage of really similar looking but distinctly different images.
Enjoy
Back once again with the ill behaviour...
"Surface corrosion started in various places". Think that trumps your vague suspension component rust, @rob_bell
Failed MOT on the ball joints we didn't replace and had another lesson in why not to buy s***e. The cheapo wheel speed sensor I bought (to replace the BMW one I mullured for no good reason) gave up on the day of the test. Despite working when fitted. Scanner confirmed the NSR was at fault and threw a code for the brake pedal position sensor, too.
That's sort of the current situation. But lots done before that MOT so best we have a catch up.
Things continued on the OSF strut...
At this point, we decided to take the wheel arch liner off to check out the rust. You know? While there's a bit of space?
The image is blurry because I got tears on the camera. Couldn't leave it so a marathon ensued including returning to the NSF wheelarch. Just so you know, I'm passing on some of the tedium involved with another montage of really similar looking but distinctly different images.
Enjoy
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weemac
Well-Known Member
OSF wheelarch and monocoque rust treatment and painting. And refitting the strut.
Have made a note of this bit for future patching. Decided against the underseal in that area to make any welding easier. However, it's right underneath the ABS pump and I've got no intention of taking it out any time soon.
Have made a note of this bit for future patching. Decided against the underseal in that area to make any welding easier. However, it's right underneath the ABS pump and I've got no intention of taking it out any time soon.
weemac
Well-Known Member
It's not me, it's you. Get better soon LZ
Plod, plod, plod...
NSF wheelarch and monocoque rust treatment and painting. Without removing the strut.
Images:
3436 // 3439 // 3447 // 3437 // 3452 // 3454 // 3459 // 3464 // 3496 // 3499 // 3507 // 3503 // 3505 // 3517 // 3515 / 3518 // 3511 // 3510 // 3528
Plod, plod, plod...
NSF wheelarch and monocoque rust treatment and painting. Without removing the strut.
Images:
3436 // 3439 // 3447 // 3437 // 3452 // 3454 // 3459 // 3464 // 3496 // 3499 // 3507 // 3503 // 3505 // 3517 // 3515 / 3518 // 3511 // 3510 // 3528
weemac
Well-Known Member
'D' for Damager, power to the people, back once again...
MOT in order.
ABS light went out after I fitted a decent sensor. The measured resistances between the old 'new' and new 'new' sensor were vastly different. Don't recall the figures.
Inspected and reset the brake pedal position sensor. It ratchets up and down in its housing to find the end of the pedal travel. Pressing and holding the brake pedal means you can push the sensor it all the way in. Slowly releasing the pedal will push the sensor back to it's correct position (I think).
That was the easy bit. Gettin' them ball joints out took a while. I thought we'd just pop the tops off the rivets off and punch them out. Nah, these things are tight. Had to drill out almost the entire diameter before I got any movement. On every single one. Regular bit sharpeneing was required.
The new ones came with this innovative and super special anti-corrosion paper. Is this the remedy all Land Rovers have been waiting for?
Images:
3606 // 3601 // 3594 // 3596 // 3580 // 3575 // 3576 // 3581 // 3583 // 3587 // 3588 // 3590 // 3600 // 3597
MOT in order.
ABS light went out after I fitted a decent sensor. The measured resistances between the old 'new' and new 'new' sensor were vastly different. Don't recall the figures.
Inspected and reset the brake pedal position sensor. It ratchets up and down in its housing to find the end of the pedal travel. Pressing and holding the brake pedal means you can push the sensor it all the way in. Slowly releasing the pedal will push the sensor back to it's correct position (I think).
That was the easy bit. Gettin' them ball joints out took a while. I thought we'd just pop the tops off the rivets off and punch them out. Nah, these things are tight. Had to drill out almost the entire diameter before I got any movement. On every single one. Regular bit sharpeneing was required.
The new ones came with this innovative and super special anti-corrosion paper. Is this the remedy all Land Rovers have been waiting for?
Images:
3606 // 3601 // 3594 // 3596 // 3580 // 3575 // 3576 // 3581 // 3583 // 3587 // 3588 // 3590 // 3600 // 3597
weemac
Well-Known Member
Ta. I did consider the whole assembly for that reason. The garage recommended it in fact. However, there is madness to the method. It's much easier to get the wishbone off/on now. And kinder to the ball joint and rubber boot in the process. Plus, there's no need to leverage off the hub so saves me breaking owt
weemac
Well-Known Member
It is a factory hole technically. For an arch liner clip or 'scrivet' as the parts lady called it. Want to patch it to regain the 8mm hole needed to secure the liner again.
weemac
Well-Known Member
Break down again this week...
Sometimes I wonder if posting this rubbish is affecting the hippo's reputation for reliability.
LP fuel pump very growly on Monday morning. Drove to work and back anyway. Still growly Tuesday morning but drove to work anyway. Hit one of the larger hills on me route and the power just disappeared all of a sudden. Right after the turbo spooled and it was pulling nicely. After a slightly sketchy, sub-30mph climb up a hill on a national speed limit A road, it regained it's composure and I nursed it to work. Then I got lazy at lunchtime and drove 2 minutes to get food coz it was raining. I noticed the pump was very quiet when I turned the ignition on again. Quiet because it wasn't working. Engine cranking but no starty...
Left it in the car park and wandered back to work. Later, a colleague kindly offered to tow me back ter work car park which was handy. Checked fuse 10 and that the pump was seeing power, which it was. I visually inspected and replaced the relay. It 'seemed fine'. Break time over...
Later still, just for tits and pickles, I tried to start it. Pump made more noise this time and it fired up but the revs were fluctuating on idle. Like when it gets lumpy but without the lumps, follow? Just random increases and decreases of RPM. That's totally fuel related in my book and, coupled with the noisy pump and loss of power, I bought a new "OEM" pump to remedy the situation.
Said pump arrived today so I got to it after work. Managed to actually drive the truck inside, though. It's a straightforward enough job and it took me just over an hour. Probably because I've very recently had that whole assembly out, cleaned, painted and used new bolts. No pictures because I forgot the camera but I might show you the old pump and see if we can get a bit more life out of it with a hammer. They move some volume, these things and it might come in handy if I ever have to drain a tank.
Sometimes I wonder if posting this rubbish is affecting the hippo's reputation for reliability.
LP fuel pump very growly on Monday morning. Drove to work and back anyway. Still growly Tuesday morning but drove to work anyway. Hit one of the larger hills on me route and the power just disappeared all of a sudden. Right after the turbo spooled and it was pulling nicely. After a slightly sketchy, sub-30mph climb up a hill on a national speed limit A road, it regained it's composure and I nursed it to work. Then I got lazy at lunchtime and drove 2 minutes to get food coz it was raining. I noticed the pump was very quiet when I turned the ignition on again. Quiet because it wasn't working. Engine cranking but no starty...
Left it in the car park and wandered back to work. Later, a colleague kindly offered to tow me back ter work car park which was handy. Checked fuse 10 and that the pump was seeing power, which it was. I visually inspected and replaced the relay. It 'seemed fine'. Break time over...
Later still, just for tits and pickles, I tried to start it. Pump made more noise this time and it fired up but the revs were fluctuating on idle. Like when it gets lumpy but without the lumps, follow? Just random increases and decreases of RPM. That's totally fuel related in my book and, coupled with the noisy pump and loss of power, I bought a new "OEM" pump to remedy the situation.
Said pump arrived today so I got to it after work. Managed to actually drive the truck inside, though. It's a straightforward enough job and it took me just over an hour. Probably because I've very recently had that whole assembly out, cleaned, painted and used new bolts. No pictures because I forgot the camera but I might show you the old pump and see if we can get a bit more life out of it with a hammer. They move some volume, these things and it might come in handy if I ever have to drain a tank.
