Alibro said:
If you're constantly adjusting the brakes they could be fitted wrong by the PO. We had an eejit on here a year or two back ranting about how they weren't self adjusting and throwing insults at everyone. When he eventually posted a photo of his wheel hub we saw they were fitted back to front. Or more correctly left to right as someone had mixed up the left and right adjusters.
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One of the very first jobs I did was overhaul the rear brakes so can't pin it on PO. I assumed some adjustment would be necessary as the new shoes bedded in. Dismantled and rebuilt one side at a time so unlikely I've mixed anything up. Handbrake works well enough but I've never been able to get the handbrake lever up that far before it locks the drum. Two to three clicks max then it's very tight. It's more likely that this eejit hasn't adjusted them correctly. I won't be insulting anyone over it ;)
 
weemac said:
One of the very first jobs I did was overhaul the rear brakes so can't pin it on PO. I assumed some adjustment would be necessary as the new shoes bedded in. Dismantled and rebuilt one side at a time so unlikely I've mixed anything up. Handbrake works well enough but I've never been able to get the handbrake lever up that far before it locks the drum. Two to three clicks max then it's very tight. It's more likely that this eejit hasn't adjusted them correctly. I won't be insulting anyone over it ;)
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He was ranting about how it was impossible for them to self adjust correctly and to be fair he was right as his were fitted wrongly but I've never had to go back and adjust mine in all the years I've had Freelanders.
As for locking the drum I never was able to either, even after fitting all new. @Nodge68 claims his do but he's so full of it........

Only kidding Nodge. :p
 
Alibro said:
He was ranting about how it was impossible for them to self adjust correctly and to be fair he was right as his were fitted wrongly but I've never had to go back and adjust mine in all the years I've had Freelanders.
As for locking the drum I never was able to either, even after fitting all new. @Nodge68 claims his do but he's so full of it........

Only kidding Nodge. :p
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lol. Thought I was clueless at times. I can't see how they would auto adjust tighter. Surely that's why there's a manual mechanism?

Slackened the lever end off at the weekend to fit me newly fabricated bracket. Perhaps I'll give more slack and tighten in the drum to see if I get more bite with more lever travel.

Might be a goose chase though as FL1 isn't known for its handbrake effectiveness. :rolleyes:
 
Painting and protecting the rusty bits...

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Just left with this hole to fit with a rivnut (when they arrive) and we'll get all this back together.

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Learned a lesson from @rob_bell 's recent ABS sensor/reluctor ring renewal and decided to pull mine before it gets any more crusty. The head of the bolt was barely recognisable. Some prying and faffing later...

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rob_bell said:
Good work! Differently designed ABS sensor but the rot is very familiar...
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Yes. Totally different setup. Was actually disappointed that it came out so easy. How insane is that? Given mine's a 52, was expecting a similar experience to the one you described. I'll take the smooth over the rough where I can, though :)
 
your doing well in saving this one but I've got to say that is one of the rustiest floor pans I've ever seen on a freelander

Has it spent its life near the sea perchance?
 
LUKBENPHI said:
...that is one of the rustiest floor pans I've ever seen on a freelander...
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lol. It was the best of the half dozen I looked at! P.M.W says I asked for it by looking at too many rusty Series Land Rovers :D You should see the fuel tank cradle. I daren't breathe near it.

LUKBENPHI said:
Has it spent its life near the sea perchance?
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If the branded plates are to be believed original, then no, it's from the Rhondda Valley. I picked it up near Wells in Somerset. Came with absolutely no history so the actual provenance is a mystery. I could probably chase the history through the test centre numbers on the MOT's.
 
Little victories...

Aiming to have the rear subframe off before the end of the year...

...

Still, everyone loves a bit of practice removing battered hardware without breakin' owt.

I ain't got spares.

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Objective was to get this off and freed up so I can adjust the wonky toe identified on my last wheel alignment check...

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This head is 14mm now. Or there abouts. The exposed length of the massive bolt has grown considerably larger that the bushes. And seized. Yay. Gotta leave it for now.

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weemac said:
lol. It was the best of the half dozen I looked at! P.M.W says I asked for it by looking at too many rusty Series Land Rovers :D You should see the fuel tank cradle. I daren't breathe near it.



If the branded plates are to be believed original, then no, it's from the Rhondda Valley. I picked it up near Wells in Somerset. Came with absolutely no history so the actual provenance is a mystery. I could probably chase the history through the test centre numbers on the MOT's.
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I'd say that level of corrosion is either near the sea and used to launch a boat , been used near a quarry of its spent its life on a farm covered in cowshit nothing else will ove down that much damage even general road salt isn't that corrosive on modern ish cars

when speaking to the gent that runs bell engineering he told me he had gone to fit a new VCU an bearings to someone's freelander and had to stop midway as it appeared the prop shaft was the only thing holding the 2 halves of the car together as that had been used to launch a boat and was rotten completely behind the b pillar and he couldn't guarantee if he removed the bolts fo the vcu that he'd be able to get them back in again
 
LUKBENPHI said:
I'd say that level of corrosion is either near the sea and used to launch a boat , been used near a quarry of its spent its life on a farm covered in cowshit nothing else will ove down that much damage even general road salt isn't that corrosive on modern ish cars
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It got me thinking and remembered the PO did give me some info on its first keeper; a vet.
So you're right, it's likely spent most of it's life on farms covered in cow muck.
LUKBENPHI said:
when speaking to the gent that runs bell engineering he told me he had gone to fit a new VCU an bearings to someone's freelander and had to stop midway as it appeared the prop shaft was the only thing holding the 2 halves of the car together as that had been used to launch a boat and was rotten completely behind the b pillar and he couldn't guarantee if he removed the bolts fo the vcu that he'd be able to get them back in again
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Blimey. That's... erm... a bad one. Things are not that bad, fortunately. I've been savage with the pointy hammer and haven't gone through anywhere [yet]. Being able to keep it in the dry for now is a godsend. Just have to keep trudging on loosening nuts and bolts and repairing what I can.
 
If it helps any the fuel tank cradle rot on all of them. If the bars are sound it's pretty easy to replace the plates.
 
Alibro said:
If it helps any the fuel tank cradle rot on all of them. If the bars are sound it's pretty easy to replace the plates.
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Thanks, Ali. Suppose I won't know how much metal is left until it's off completely. And whether welding new plates on is possible. However, I did read through your thread 'Looks like I've done it again, Doh!!!' and it looks like you did the plates without removing the bars (?). Does that mean you left the subframe on, too? Now, that would speed things up :)

I do like to salvage things. Particularly as a new complete cradle is almost a hundred quid!
 
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