LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Indeed. Had a good poke about when I had the gearbox out the other week. Nothing of note. But I'm afraid I'm already well and truly down that rabbit holePulled and cleaned the injectors already and pots 3 and 4 twice! The subsequent leak off test results always showed consistency across all four injectors. It seems the injector tips were getting dirty very quickly and nozzles blocked. Coincidentally, diverting the crankcase breather into a catch-can has helped the misfire and the rough idle has not returned.
the wires break down insure the sheath so you wouldn't see it by eye.,
Have you had the injectors professionally cleaned or used an ultrasonic bath?
This thread may be of some assistance with misfire but point you in several directions (boost pipes problems/ egr/ injector's going bad/ turbo actuator)
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-td4-2000-rpm-misfire-and-smoke-issue.298625/
weemac
Well-Known Member
Interesting read. Recently fitted a new turbo with new actuator and solenoid and it all works fine. Might run the test out of curiosity but can't see it being a problem.
Seems to be no need to recon the injectors as I was able to sort the lumpy idle (the actual problem I was chasing) by simply cleaning the nozzles and diverting the oily air coming out of the crankcase. As I'm having no issues with starting or running, I'm inclined to leave it and keep monitoring. I get no smoke of any colour anymore except for the first cold start after a long trip (200 miles+) and that clears within seconds. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I've got enough problems
I do think the fuel pressure sensor wiring harness will save me dealing with a problem in the future and will fit one in time
weemac
Well-Known Member
Part V - The gearbox (5 speed Getrag)
Either the old slave was knackered already or I mullered it removing the box. It just fell apart so good job I had a new one to fit (from the Borg & Beck kit). There was a huge amount of black dust that used to be the clutch plate. A stiff brush and toothbrush (used dry) soon saw to that and left a right stain on me crawling mat.
To be fair, it's very likely I'll have this back out pretty soon as I suspect the first and second gear synchro needs some attention. First gives a nice positive clunk when selected, occasionally on second. Although dark, the gear oil was free of metallic sheen so I'm not overly concerned for now but it adds yet another job to the list I'm actually quite excited to see its insidy parts.
Either the old slave was knackered already or I mullered it removing the box. It just fell apart so good job I had a new one to fit (from the Borg & Beck kit). There was a huge amount of black dust that used to be the clutch plate. A stiff brush and toothbrush (used dry) soon saw to that and left a right stain on me crawling mat.
To be fair, it's very likely I'll have this back out pretty soon as I suspect the first and second gear synchro needs some attention. First gives a nice positive clunk when selected, occasionally on second. Although dark, the gear oil was free of metallic sheen so I'm not overly concerned for now but it adds yet another job to the list
I'm actually quite excited to see its insidy parts.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Been on hols for a week so just catching up with this thread. Very happy to see my 'How To' was a help. If you can see anything I missed or forgot about please pop an update to my original post.
weemac
Well-Known Member
I will. It's funny how fast you forget some of the details so sooner the better
I needed to tighten the strut tops after a few miles. I had quite an argy-bargy with the IRD side.You were with me all the way thanks to copy and paste
weemac
Well-Known Member
Part VI - The clutch
Not replaced flywheel. Despite the discolouration, it was still smooth and cleaned up nicely. I measured the amount of play by rocking it back and forth. The inner marks show the free play. The outer marks show where I could lightly rotate to. I didn't have another flywheel and that seemed reasonable so we cracked on.
Made an alignment tool:
Long 10mm 1/4" socket with an OD that matched the ID of the bearing inside the flywheel, a 1/4" extension bar (6" long) and an old 1/2" socket that with an OD that matched the ID of the clutchplate splines (bit of a mouthful, sorry). Packed lots of little bits of dense foam into the space inside the 1/2" socket to keep it centred on the extension bar. That tied the whole tool together. I measured between the extension bar and pressure plate lots and eyeballed until me neck hurt. Gearbox went on easy...
Not replaced flywheel. Despite the discolouration, it was still smooth and cleaned up nicely. I measured the amount of play by rocking it back and forth. The inner marks show the free play. The outer marks show where I could lightly rotate to. I didn't have another flywheel and that seemed reasonable so we cracked on.
Made an alignment tool:
Long 10mm 1/4" socket with an OD that matched the ID of the bearing inside the flywheel, a 1/4" extension bar (6" long) and an old 1/2" socket that with an OD that matched the ID of the clutchplate splines (bit of a mouthful, sorry). Packed lots of little bits of dense foam into the space inside the 1/2" socket to keep it centred on the extension bar. That tied the whole tool together. I measured between the extension bar and pressure plate lots and eyeballed until me neck hurt. Gearbox went on easy...
weemac
Well-Known Member
Part VII - Refit the gearbox and IRD...
Gearbox was pretty straightforward. Using the rope and GriGri (rope device) and the jack, we lifted it back into place. The DIY alignment tool worked a treat as the gearbox slid on with no problems. No need to turn the engine over to align the splines.
Refitting the IRD was a total bastard. No images of that as it ended up being pretty involved. Because we have a blanking plate instead of the rear drive pinion, there was no way of aligning the splines without pulling it back out, rotating the shaft and attempting to refit. After a few tries, I decided to get two long bolts on to secure it and lift the engine back up. Some pushing and pulling ensued as the whole whishbone, strut and hub were still attached to one another. With the driveshaft roughly refitted, a few wiggles saw the IRD go home.
If I have to do this again, I'll probably just dismantle the lot (pop the ball joint, strut out, driveshaft out of the hub, wishbone off, etc). It proved that the strut top mounts needed a good tightening after driving for a few miles. I'm thinking we stressed them too much and reduced the service life quite a lot
I'll add some of my observations to Alibro's original post on the subject.
Gearbox was pretty straightforward. Using the rope and GriGri (rope device) and the jack, we lifted it back into place. The DIY alignment tool worked a treat as the gearbox slid on with no problems. No need to turn the engine over to align the splines.
Refitting the IRD was a total bastard. No images of that as it ended up being pretty involved. Because we have a blanking plate instead of the rear drive pinion, there was no way of aligning the splines without pulling it back out, rotating the shaft and attempting to refit. After a few tries, I decided to get two long bolts on to secure it and lift the engine back up. Some pushing and pulling ensued as the whole whishbone, strut and hub were still attached to one another. With the driveshaft roughly refitted, a few wiggles saw the IRD go home.
If I have to do this again, I'll probably just dismantle the lot (pop the ball joint, strut out, driveshaft out of the hub, wishbone off, etc). It proved that the strut top mounts needed a good tightening after driving for a few miles. I'm thinking we stressed them too much and reduced the service life quite a lot
I'll add some of my observations to Alibro's original post on the subject.
Steve in Antrim
Active Member
I think it was certainly a lot easier fitting the gearbox and IRD to the engine with the engine out and them lifting the whole lot into place, although an engine hoist is probably essential for that. Nice work as usual.
weemac
Well-Known Member
I was going to hire a hoist but there just isn't any space to use it in me garage. Or store it. I figured something that's in my way all the time would get a bit tiresome. Or more tiresome than the job already is
The static deadman works well if you're tight on space.I have been seriously considering fabra-cobbling a gantry across the centre of the roof space. A hanging block and tackle would have been well handy.
weemac
Well-Known Member
So....
I'm staring down the cost and faff of replacing my front dampers and/or top mounts after having a tug of war with the O/S drive shaft and strut during the clutch job. The knocking and creaking is too prominent for me to keep driving it without wincing and dealing with my bumhole twitching round tight left handers. Only a week till MOT time, too
Remember, I break things so you don't have to
I'm staring down the cost and faff of replacing my front dampers and/or top mounts after having a tug of war with the O/S drive shaft and strut during the clutch job. The knocking and creaking is too prominent for me to keep driving it without wincing and dealing with my bumhole twitching round tight left handers. Only a week till MOT time, too
Remember, I break things so you don't have to
weemac
Well-Known Member
On the upside, got new discs and pads on the front. N/S was considerably more worn than the O/S thanks to some binding. As far as I can make out, it's a result of those stupid caliper guide pins with the rubber bit on. Fitted standard steel ones. We'll see if we get any imbalance come the MOT.
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Steve in Antrim
Active Member
Changed the strut bearings/top mounts on mine when I was removing the lift kit. The old ones were well notchy.
weemac
Well-Known Member
Sensible. It's probably safer than my cautious mind is telling me but it's off the road til I can get new ones sorted. Feels and sounds way too sketchy. The guy I bought the Freelander off has a pair of of used complete struts in "good condition" for forty quid (damper, spring and bearing). Replacing just the bearings on my existing struts is a job for a garage to be sure. I'll try most things but I'll draw the line at a DIY spring compressor. I like my eyes the way they are
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Sensible. It's probably safer than my cautious mind is telling me but it's off the road til I can get new ones sorted. Feels and sounds way too sketchy. The guy I bought the Freelander off has a pair of of used complete struts in "good condition" for forty quid (damper, spring and bearing). Replacing just the bearings on my existing struts is a job for a garage to be sure. I'll try most things but I'll draw the line at a DIY spring compressor. I like my eyes the way they are
Trick is to point it away from you when your winding it down the fit a small ratchet strap round the spring as an added security device once it's where you need it to be no problems then
weemac
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the confidence boost. Might just give it a try for tits and pickles.
weemac
Well-Known Member
With the van MOT'd (spending me budget in the process) and back on commuter duty, the old hippo has been sat in the garage, drying out. It had been in the cold and wet for some weeks prior to this. Started on the button when the time came, mind. No smoke. No cough. It idled lovely.
No movement on new front suspension parts but lots of other bits to get on with. I'd neglected to change the fuel filter and, as I have a new Mahle one to hand, thought it a good place to start. How difficult can it be?
Toolbox was foiled by the silly plastic clips. Had to butcher one of me rough chisels just to get this job started...
With the bumper screws seized, some more destruction ensued...
...A pile of rubbish later and we finally get a good look in the wheel arch. It's a bit crusty.
No movement on new front suspension parts but lots of other bits to get on with. I'd neglected to change the fuel filter and, as I have a new Mahle one to hand, thought it a good place to start. How difficult can it be?
Toolbox was foiled by the silly plastic clips. Had to butcher one of me rough chisels just to get this job started...
With the bumper screws seized, some more destruction ensued...
...A pile of rubbish later and we finally get a good look in the wheel arch. It's a bit crusty.
weemac
Well-Known Member
If I leave the rot for another winter, I'm not sure I'll have much left to recover. My concern here is the monocoque. I can replace/restore many of the parts but it's best I preserve the bits of the frame I can't replace. Cue the pointy hammer and photo montage...
Betterer
Betterer
Alibro
Well-Known Member
If you're constantly adjusting the brakes they could be fitted wrong by the PO. We had an eejit on here a year or two back ranting about how they weren't self adjusting and throwing insults at everyone. When he eventually posted a photo of his wheel hub we saw they were fitted back to front. Or more correctly left to right as someone had mixed up the left and right adjusters.
