peejaysea

peejaysea

New Member
As it says on the tin… I just bought a 1966 2A 88” and then drove her to her new abode – Luxembourg.

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Betsy is a 2 ¼ petrol and was initially in the Army from Jul 1966 to Sept 1972. History is somewhat vague for the next 20 years or so, but she came with a 3” folder of previous bills, MOT’s etc. She has had a couple of “refurbishments” over the years but is presently pretty solid and runs really well. Last tidy up was a father / son affair to get her / him on the road and to teach him to drive.

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As stated, I purchased her in UK and then brought her to Luxembourg recently – a 500+ mile trip for her first real outing for a while. She ran really well :)– no major issues (oil warning light flashed on = quick top up) and with plenty of fuel stops / rest stops we got home – with a return of approx. 24mpg. She even managed to hit 70 mph (ok downhill and with a tail wind) but in all honesty cruised at 55 – 60 mph no issues and no major noise. Heater works a treat!

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She is not my first venture into Series world – as I previously owned a Series 3 109 diesel for a wee while - but I am pretty dumb when it comes to vehicle maintenance / mechanics. :confused:
Intent is to get stuck in proper with Betsy and currently I am using her daily and plan to do a running restoration at the same time. Mechanically she appears to be pretty solid in the running gear department (2 ¼ petrol, OD and FWH. + running a Series 3 syncro gearbox) and all electrics etc. work (touch wood that is not the LR kiss of death). She has had an alternator installed to replace the original dynamo.

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Cosmetically she is not bad but could do with a little TLC and some fettling.

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She has the roof of presently - depsite the crappy weatehr here (joy of a heated garage to come home to!)

Spent a few hours mooching around her yesterday resulting in the following findings:

– Stripped / broken bolt on bottom of transfer / gear box housing with resulting oil weep. (this will need drilled / tapped out?) but I have currently plugged with the broken bolt / PTF tape (photo to follow)

Some surface rust in the usual chassis areas – hopefully this is nothing more than surface and she does not need welding (no experience!)

I will continue to dive under / into her over the next few days and get some decent photos of her too..

Looking forward to getting my finger nails dirty and will start a sticky/ blog on Betsy’s progress – plus tap you good folks up for all kinds of advice and guidance.

Cheers
 
Bravo! Looks like a sweet truck - and if you can get 500 miles out of it without blowing it up you're likely in pretty good shape.

Change all the fluids and stick a strainer under them as you drain the old - this will give you a pretty good idea of the internal condition of things. Have the wheels off and the drums - inspect the braking system (shoes/wear/leaks) and adjust the brakes.

TBH with an oveerdrive i would have expected a bit better than 55-60 in an 88 with little load. You might want to think about checking the engine compression and giving it a comprehensive tune-up (points, plugs, condenser, cap, rotor, wires) including valve adjustment (simple, really!) And you could likely buy yourself a bit more top-end speed.

Ass far as the welding goes, it's not all that hard, or farming it out to a local shop if needed is more than doable. Leave that for another day, though, other than a good look underneath to make sure nothing is falling off. :)

In any case, bravo again - it's a great rtruck.

Alan
 
Hi Alan

mrchurchill109 said:
Bravo! Looks like a sweet truck - and if you can get 500 miles out of it without blowing it up you're likely in pretty good shape.

She did herself proud getting us back to Lux without any drama.

Change all the fluids and stick a strainer under them as you drain the old - this will give you a pretty good idea of the internal condition of things. Have the wheels off and the drums - inspect the braking system (shoes/wear/leaks) and adjust the brakes.


Will be getting stuck into this once the service kit arrives - hopefully this coming weekend.

TBH with an oveerdrive i would have expected a bit better than 55-60 in an 88 with little load. You might want to think about checking the engine compression and giving it a comprehensive tune-up (points, plugs, condenser, cap, rotor, wires) including valve adjustment (simple, really!) And you could likely buy yourself a bit more top-end speed.

Probably - but to be honest, first time out I didn't want to flog the old girl too hard. She was pretty well loaded up to the gunnels - 4 spare wheels, spares and a spare windscreen - plus a shopping list as long as your arm from the family - looking for "UK" tasty bits.

Ass far as the welding goes, it's not all that hard, or farming it out to a local shop if needed is more than doable. Leave that for another day, though, other than a good look underneath to make sure nothing is falling off. :)

In any case, bravo again - it's a great rtruck.

Alan
Click to expand...

More to follow as I dig in...
Cheers
Paul
 
mrchurchill109 said:
...TBH with an oveerdrive i would have expected a bit better than 55-60 in an 88 with little load...
Click to expand...

If its ex-military then it may have had a speedo set up for 7.50/16 wheels, it looks like its on 235/75r16 more like the smaller 6.50/16 tyres more typical of swb models. This would effect the true speed and acceleration.
 
Does the license plate actually begin with BFH?

If so it describes a Landy owner's favourite tool - a Big Foolish Hammer... :)

Having looked over the photos you have yourself a VERY tidy motor there - good choice!

Alan
 
Thanks guys for the kind words and warm welcome!

I like her - a lot - and as previously stated intend to get stuck into owning Betsy proper.

Regarding my initial post -Stripped / broken bolt on bottom of transfer / gear box housing with resulting oil weep. (this will need drilled / tapped out?) but I have currently plugged with the broken bolt / PTF tape (photo to follow)

Camera is currently playing up but I will try to attach a photo of the area where the broken bolt / thread is - i think the bottom of the transfer box (stand corrected as I am dumber than a box of frogs presently with all things technical / mechanical / LR related). It is just in front of the handbrake drum (rectangular looking sump with a big brass sump plug, 9 nuts and a saltire type cross stamped on it .... I know a photo would be better.:mad: I have plugged it up with PTFE tape but presumably if the bolt doesn't tighten the sump / gasket (?) properly then there will be a continued weep / loss of gear oil from there? Any suggestions or do I just live with it for the present time?

Also, I believe that she had a dynamo to start life with - but a previous owner has installed an alternator. again - knowing nada - would this make the fuel gage read back to front - i.e. empty= full and full=empty. Is this a fault with the sender or is it a wiring / electrical issue do you think? Previous owner obviously lived with it;)

All thoughts, comments, slaggings and praise gratefully received.
Thanks
Paul
 
KillaJoules said:
If its ex-military then it may have had a speedo set up for 7.50/16 wheels, it looks like its on 235/75r16 more like the smaller 6.50/16 tyres more typical of swb models. This would effect the true speed and acceleration.
Click to expand...

Hi killaJoules

Thanks for the comment - she is currently running NANKANG NK4WD AT 205/80R16's on steel wheels. What difference would this make - better or worse mph/mpg? pretty ignorant to these things to be honest....

Cheers
Paul
 
The speedo ratio is printed on the speedo in tiny numbers usually just above the odometer reading.

In general the LWB speedo for the larger diameter 7.50/16s should be 1604 and the swb speedo usually 1376.

I believe this is the number of rotations of the speedo drive cable from the transfer box rear output shaft in a mile.

The output gear in a series box is always the same and the speedo head was specified for tyres. (whereas the gear is different in Defenders depending on wheel size and the speedo in the dash stays the same).

Below is the Speedo I fitted in my 80" in anticipation of the 7.50s although I am still running 205r16 at the moment.

If you have the wrong ratio then you will get an inaccurate speed and odometer reading.



d8sy.jpg
 
Re: Backwards fuel gauge: I suspect that you have a later type fuel sender with an earlier type gauge - my 1954 Series I is set up that way at present and it's annoying. Might want to see if you can source a used earlier sender for the petrol tank - used as new are no longer available.

Re: Alternator: Not likely to have caused the problem above. TBH it's a good addition - did that on my 64 109 long ago and never looked back. While the dynamo is picturesque :) the measly 20 amps it can put out at running speeds is just not enough with lights/wipers/heater (as is needed here 6 months of the year). Alternator is likely 40-60 amps and will charge at idle.

As far as the sump leak goes it's easy enough to remove the bottom of the sump and redrill/retap the thread in the aluminium or put in a Helicoil. That should be a stud in any case, not a bolt. Might be just a case of a silly previous owner doing something dumb.

However, getting the bottom cover off, fixing the thread problem and replacing the cover is a relatively trivial job - get the gasket and do it as part of the fluid change so you don't need to worry about the oil.

Damn...now you're making me want to go play in the garage...but SWMBO has me redecorating the house... :)

Alan
 
KillaJoules said:
The speedo ratio is printed on the speedo in tiny numbers usually just above the odometer reading.

In general the LWB speedo for the larger diameter 7.50/16s should be 1604 and the swb speedo usually 1376.

If you have the wrong ratio then you will get an inaccurate speed and odometer reading.
Click to expand...

Thanks KillaJoules - I will take a look tonight and let you know.

If the ratio is wrong then does that make it inaccurate + or - in regards speed / odo reading? Don't want to get a tug from Luxembourgish Old Bill for speeding:D
 
mrchurchill109 said:
Re: Backwards fuel gauge: I suspect that you have a later type fuel sender with an earlier type gauge - my 1954 Series I is set up that way at present and it's annoying. Might want to see if you can source a used earlier sender for the petrol tank - used as new are no longer available.

Re: Alternator: Not likely to have caused the problem above. TBH it's a good addition - did that on my 64 109 long ago and never looked back. While the dynamo is picturesque :) the measly 20 amps it can put out at running speeds is just not enough with lights/wipers/heater (as is needed here 6 months of the year). Alternator is likely 40-60 amps and will charge at idle.
As far as the sump leak goes it's easy enough to remove the bottom of the sump and redrill/retap the thread in the aluminium or put in a Helicoil. That should be a stud in any case, not a bolt. Might be just a case of a silly previous owner doing something dumb.

However, getting the bottom cover off, fixing the thread problem and replacing the cover is a relatively trivial job - get the gasket and do it as part of the fluid change so you don't need to worry about the oil.

Damn...now you're making me want to go play in the garage...but SWMBO has me redecorating the house... :)

Alan
Click to expand...
Thanks Alan- Will go look at the wires but previous owner states he already looked at this - also suggested bending the arm in the sender the other way around:confused: Will also hunt a new (old) sender - or keep her half full!

Yes - happy that she has an alternator rather than the dynamo TBH. It gets frett wet and cold here in the winter so heater and wipers will be working OT!

Good call on the stud / and looking at it as part of the service and yeah - I know all about the DIY / redecorating bit as I spent three days stripping, sealing and painting a room in the cellar earlier this month. Not much fun. Funny how I hate DIY but don't mind getting dirt under my nails on a LR...

Thanks again
Paul
 
peejaysea said:
If the ratio is wrong then does that make it inaccurate + or - in regards speed / odo reading? Don't want to get a tug from Luxembourgish Old Bill for speeding:D
Click to expand...

If the tyres are smaller than would be accounted for my the speedometer calibration you will go slower than indicated. Think of it as the amount of distance covered my one revolution of the tyre - smaller tyre does not go as far per revolution.

In 20+ years of LR ownership i have only been done for speeding once...andd the cop stopped me to get a look at the car. :)

Re: Decorating. My daughter is getting married at the end of May and we're having folks in. This is what is prompting the wholesale redecoration. Thankfully I painted the place outside last year or she'd want that too.

Alan
 
So just a quick update on Betsy whilst she is being used as a daily driver....

Now I remember the pleasures of driving a series LR - heading to work on Thursday when it was peeing down - the fantastic windscreen wipers and leaky door tops; at least the heater works a real treat and heats the truck cab up really quickly - just a shame that it then mists the windscreen and you can't then see anything:) but I still had a smile on my face - especially seeing the queue of "modern" cars trailing (impatiently) behind us!

My folks arrive from the UK tomorrow with a box of bits - plenty of engine oil and EP 90 plus service kit, some nuts/ bolts etc and importantly a bench seat / belts for my 11 year old to jump into the back with the dogs (his idea honest).

Will be jumping into a service early next week followed by probably lifting the floors and truing to get some cleaning / chassis painting done.

Camera still playing up but working on a n early birthday present from Mrs. peejaysea....
 
The remains of the broken cover plate bolt shouldn't be too hard to get out - as long as it isn't cross-threaded. You might get better access by taking the cover off, but you'll see that if you clean it up and have a good look. If you can expose enough to grip, then make sure you are using something with sharp gripping teeth (good quality pliers) because you only really get one good chance to turn it before you slowly turn it into a mess. If there's not enough to grip, then you might be able to saw a screwdriver slot in it. If that doesn't work you're going to need to use an 'Easy Out' after drilling a hole down it. If you haven't used one, it might be better to get a friend who has to come and help. They are clever, but do break, and when that happens you have a real problem.

Either way, it isn't a big problem, and can certainly wait for a fine day and when you need to do an oil change.
 
boguing said:
The remains of the broken cover plate bolt shouldn't be too hard to get out - as long as it isn't cross-threaded. You might get better access by taking the cover off, but you'll see that if you clean it up and have a good look. If you can expose enough to grip, then make sure you are using something with sharp gripping teeth (good quality pliers) because you only really get one good chance to turn it before you slowly turn it into a mess. If there's not enough to grip, then you might be able to saw a screwdriver slot in it. If that doesn't work you're going to need to use an 'Easy Out' after drilling a hole down it. If you haven't used one, it might be better to get a friend who has to come and help. They are clever, but do break, and when that happens you have a real problem.

Either way, it isn't a big problem, and can certainly wait for a fine day and when you need to do an oil change.
Click to expand...

Yeah - not really had a good look but plan to drop the cover off when I come to do a general service. Don't have the tools (other than pliers) so will have to see what is what. If need be I may have to "bodge" with some instant gasket or silicone (if that would work?) until I get better equipped with tools of the trade! Not a major issue other than the (usual) loss of oil which appears to be minor at present.

Thanks for the post though boguing - not heard of an Easy Out so will be looking around for one of those. Luxembourg is not exactly teeming with "Halfords" "Machine Mart" etc.
Cheers
Paul
 
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