I have many thanks, if you look on my thread galvanised chassis bulkhead change you will see why they are on the to do list haha
I have many thanks, if you look on my thread galvanised chassis bulkhead change you will see why they are on the to do list haha
Bustrucket
Active Member
Bought it from a breaker down in St Awful.
A plea to anyone doing an engine swap or any major work: if you're going to do a job, do it properly.
To the left is the wiring from the alternator to the starter motor, to the right is the replacement I made:
The old loom has a few inches of the loom from the Disco that donated its 300Tdi spliced into the 2.5TD wiring, which ran from the alternator, across the top of the engine tensioner, under the glow plugs, across the top of the gearbox and around to the starter motor. New one is 4AWG, rated to carry the 100A output of the Disco alternator, and it goes from the alternator, along the top of the turbo-to-intercooler pipe, onto the starter motor.
Total cost? £8.28 for a metre of cable and the two connectors from Maplins
Found this nestled down in front of the nearside bulkhead footwell, I guess it's the old slave cylinder for an LT77 clutch?
And the old pipe where it had been crudely cut off near the master cylinder:
All now in the scrap bin - why leave it there?
Also tidied up all of the wiring:
Again, simple stuff - all the wiring was just loose in the bay. A dozen cable ties and it both looks better and won't rub (and eventually short out) on the engine. I will eventually wrap it in corrugated cable trunking, but not until I've finished working on the electrics.
And finally, a question; what's this meant to go into?
A plea to anyone doing an engine swap or any major work: if you're going to do a job, do it properly.
To the left is the wiring from the alternator to the starter motor, to the right is the replacement I made:
The old loom has a few inches of the loom from the Disco that donated its 300Tdi spliced into the 2.5TD wiring, which ran from the alternator, across the top of the engine tensioner, under the glow plugs, across the top of the gearbox and around to the starter motor. New one is 4AWG, rated to carry the 100A output of the Disco alternator, and it goes from the alternator, along the top of the turbo-to-intercooler pipe, onto the starter motor.
Total cost? £8.28 for a metre of cable and the two connectors from Maplins
Found this nestled down in front of the nearside bulkhead footwell, I guess it's the old slave cylinder for an LT77 clutch?
And the old pipe where it had been crudely cut off near the master cylinder:
All now in the scrap bin - why leave it there?
Also tidied up all of the wiring:
Again, simple stuff - all the wiring was just loose in the bay. A dozen cable ties and it both looks better and won't rub (and eventually short out) on the engine. I will eventually wrap it in corrugated cable trunking, but not until I've finished working on the electrics.
And finally, a question; what's this meant to go into?
Goes into air cleaner/filter areaBought it from a breaker down in St Awful.
A plea to anyone doing an engine swap or any major work: if you're going to do a job, do it properly.
To the left is the wiring from the alternator to the starter motor, to the right is the replacement I made:
The old loom has a few inches of the loom from the Disco that donated its 300Tdi spliced into the 2.5TD wiring, which ran from the alternator, across the top of the engine tensioner, under the glow plugs, across the top of the gearbox and around to the starter motor. New one is 4AWG, rated to carry the 100A output of the Disco alternator, and it goes from the alternator, along the top of the turbo-to-intercooler pipe, onto the starter motor.
Total cost? £8.28 for a metre of cable and the two connectors from Maplins
Found this nestled down in front of the nearside bulkhead footwell, I guess it's the old slave cylinder for an LT77 clutch?
And the old pipe where it had been crudely cut off near the master cylinder:
All now in the scrap bin - why leave it there?
Also tidied up all of the wiring:
Again, simple stuff - all the wiring was just loose in the bay. A dozen cable ties and it both looks better and won't rub (and eventually short out) on the engine. I will eventually wrap it in corrugated cable trunking, but not until I've finished working on the electrics.
And finally, a question; what's this meant to go into?
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Bustrucket
Active Member
Ah, as there's no air filter fitted (another bodge to sort.... :mad2::censored: ) that'll explain why it just sits to one side of the gearbox. Going to locate a new one on the driver's side of the engine bay, need to buy some silicone hose before I do though.
Bustrucket
Active Member
Whilst I was replacing the main battery cables and earths I found this:
It appears to come out of the side of the selector housing on top of the gearbox. At a guess I'd say its for the reverse light (which doesn't work). Anyone able to confirm this?
And secondly, you know when it's starting to get dark, and your mind tells you 'go on, it'll only take five minutes to do that job, especially as you've already moved everything else....', well, at just gone 1800 I finished the '5 min' job that I'd started at 1615 - modifying a Disco 200Tdi rubber gear gaiter/boot to fit my 90 - previously, it'd just been an alloy plate with a hole for the levers to pole through, with my centre console dropped on top. Now, its sealed properly, much quieter in the cab and nowhere near as draughty;
Taken about half way through, before I cut the excess rubber from over the seat box. Now buried beneath cubby box and centre console.
It appears to come out of the side of the selector housing on top of the gearbox. At a guess I'd say its for the reverse light (which doesn't work). Anyone able to confirm this?
And secondly, you know when it's starting to get dark, and your mind tells you 'go on, it'll only take five minutes to do that job, especially as you've already moved everything else....', well, at just gone 1800 I finished the '5 min' job that I'd started at 1615 - modifying a Disco 200Tdi rubber gear gaiter/boot to fit my 90 - previously, it'd just been an alloy plate with a hole for the levers to pole through, with my centre console dropped on top. Now, its sealed properly, much quieter in the cab and nowhere near as draughty;
Taken about half way through, before I cut the excess rubber from over the seat box. Now buried beneath cubby box and centre console.
Boris113
Well-Known Member
If you use a standard 300tdi intake hose, it will have a hole underneath to attach it through. Route the pipe around the back of the engine, through the P-clips then push the end of the 90 degree bend through the hole in the pipe and jubilee clip it.
You should just be able to make out where it ends on mine, just behind the air filter. I used a disco hose as it was cheap
Be careful using silicone pipe for the cyclone breather pipe, a lot of them are not designed to carry oil/oil vapour according to the suppliers.
Great rebuild, I love the colour!
Attachments
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Bustrucket
Active Member
Unfortunately if I stick an air filter there the washer bottle will need relocating, and the turbo-intercooler hard pipe sits above the alternator. The breather may well end up plumbed straight to a catch can with a vent filter on the exit port, I'm sure Pirtek or someone similar can do a hose that'll take oil without issues.
Cheers
Cheers
Bustrucket
Active Member
Bollocks.
Mr Tinworm has been on an extended holiday in the chassis.
Took the 90 in for a new rear crossmember and a couple of patches at a local Land Rover specialist, got a call this morning to say 'you'd better come and have a look at this....'.
Rot all along the side and bottom of the N/S chassis rail between front and rear arms, crossmember needs welding up where A-frame bolts to it on O/S, few bits not quite at the hole stage on the O/S rail and the spring mounts look a bit rotten too. He's now seeing what he can do and will give me a call later - he reckons if he can get hold of a half chassis it may well be the best way to go about it - I can't afford a galv chassis at the moment.
Bollocks!
Mr Tinworm has been on an extended holiday in the chassis.
Took the 90 in for a new rear crossmember and a couple of patches at a local Land Rover specialist, got a call this morning to say 'you'd better come and have a look at this....'.
Rot all along the side and bottom of the N/S chassis rail between front and rear arms, crossmember needs welding up where A-frame bolts to it on O/S, few bits not quite at the hole stage on the O/S rail and the spring mounts look a bit rotten too. He's now seeing what he can do and will give me a call later - he reckons if he can get hold of a half chassis it may well be the best way to go about it - I can't afford a galv chassis at the moment.
Bollocks!
Bustrucket
Active Member
Strip down day:
Defender Superleggera!
Along with the bottom chassis rail and rear crossmember, here's the worst of the rot:
Better than we thought actually! Worst case was that the whole of the axle crossmember was rotten - aside from the bits pictured, it responded to the hammer test well.
And:
I was fully expecting to find rot all the way along - the ends need a bit of attention but much better than I thought!
Defender Superleggera!
Along with the bottom chassis rail and rear crossmember, here's the worst of the rot:
Better than we thought actually! Worst case was that the whole of the axle crossmember was rotten - aside from the bits pictured, it responded to the hammer test well.
And:
I was fully expecting to find rot all the way along - the ends need a bit of attention but much better than I thought!
Bustrucket
Active Member
So nearly a year later the project moves forwards.
The chassis was just too far gone to be salvageable, so I hunted around for a replacement. A TD5 chassis came up at the right price locally, so Trewey and I collected it. Big thanks to him for the lifting, shifting and storing of the chassis until I could get it home.
Today the chassis has gone to have a new rear crossmember fitted, and the 90 was partly re-assembled as the return load. Tomorrow I'll be stripping it completely, the old chassis will be binned, axles sold (300Tdi ones replacing them) and the rest stored ready for the return of the completed chassis. Then it'll be around a year building it up again, plenty of new stuff going on.
Will update here as and when work progresses, tomorrow is going to be a long day with the angle grinder!
The chassis was just too far gone to be salvageable, so I hunted around for a replacement. A TD5 chassis came up at the right price locally, so Trewey and I collected it. Big thanks to him for the lifting, shifting and storing of the chassis until I could get it home.
Today the chassis has gone to have a new rear crossmember fitted, and the 90 was partly re-assembled as the return load. Tomorrow I'll be stripping it completely, the old chassis will be binned, axles sold (300Tdi ones replacing them) and the rest stored ready for the return of the completed chassis. Then it'll be around a year building it up again, plenty of new stuff going on.
Will update here as and when work progresses, tomorrow is going to be a long day with the angle grinder!
Bustrucket
Active Member
Strip down finished.
Chassis, axles, suspension and seat box are all being weighed in tomorrow, new (to me) chassis should be back from being fettled in around four or five weeks. Hoping to have it all back together in a year or so.
Chassis, axles, suspension and seat box are all being weighed in tomorrow, new (to me) chassis should be back from being fettled in around four or five weeks. Hoping to have it all back together in a year or so.
