discomark10
Well-Known Member
One out 3 more togo.
Am bloody nackered!
This guide worked best for me..
Nice work mate on the fender!
I use lots of FIRE to get the bush out rather than drilling!
Nice work mate on the fender!
I use lots of FIRE to get the bush out rather than drilling!
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Why bother with a drill or a saw. Just get a thin pin drift and a thin cold chisel/tough screwdriver. and drive it between the outer sleeve and the arm. this forces the outer sleeve to deform inwards which reduces the diameter of the bush and it falls out. I have done a doz or so like this and never failed to get the bush out.
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Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
disco box has never been used on a defender. If your reverse is forwards then it's been mated to a LT77 gearbox. 300tdi defenders used R380 gearbox. Mine is a standard 300tdi and the engine is quite far back. But because it's original the air intake is on the drivers side wing.
smckeown73
Active Member
Had a productive afternoon, with my boy helping too.
First up was fitting the recently POR15 covered and black top coated bumber. The original was rusted and dented big time. I decided rather than spent £60 on a new one I would repair and rescue the original. It's the ethos of this project, to keep spend down to a minimum and rescue as much as poss. The van has served as a farm vehicle for 140k miles, so it deserves some TLC, rather than being turned into something it's not; i.e. a hard worn trusty landy.
Finally got the last of the bolts in the rear xmember. The neighbour had to jump up and down on the roof for me to get the tub to align to the xmember. Also fitted some chequered plate as this area was a seriously dented mess.
First up was fitting the recently POR15 covered and black top coated bumber. The original was rusted and dented big time. I decided rather than spent £60 on a new one I would repair and rescue the original. It's the ethos of this project, to keep spend down to a minimum and rescue as much as poss. The van has served as a farm vehicle for 140k miles, so it deserves some TLC, rather than being turned into something it's not; i.e. a hard worn trusty landy.
Finally got the last of the bolts in the rear xmember. The neighbour had to jump up and down on the roof for me to get the tub to align to the xmember. Also fitted some chequered plate as this area was a seriously dented mess.
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Dan_Trials
Well-Known Member
Very good thread, like it a lot!
mlucas110
New Member
thanks for that very helpful, mine is mated to a lt77 box I assume as my reverse it up and to the left. A long flexi hose should do the job to sort the snorkel out.
smckeown73
Active Member
Well removal of the tank is proving a real arse. Think I need a small hacksaw to cut the bolts.
So I also started to crack on with renewing the suspension and painting of the rest of the chassis
This one is for motivation..
So I also started to crack on with renewing the suspension and painting of the rest of the chassis
This one is for motivation..
smckeown73
Active Member
Thank god I bought these recently!
So both sides had brackets that were probably cut to allow easy fitting of new springs in the past. I assume this is a rather dangerous state!
It's a huge ball ache getting the and plate bolts off, i'm not giving up though.
Getting this shock off was a real nightmare. Seems the rubber is welded on!
A coat of POR15 and this side is ready for the new springs and shocks.
So both sides had brackets that were probably cut to allow easy fitting of new springs in the past. I assume this is a rather dangerous state!
It's a huge ball ache getting the and plate bolts off, i'm not giving up though.
Getting this shock off was a real nightmare. Seems the rubber is welded on!
A coat of POR15 and this side is ready for the new springs and shocks.
smckeown73
Active Member
Cheers, I used a hacksaw in the end, must get some discs for my grinder whilst I remember.
-Defender110-
Well-Known Member
Why bother with a drill or a saw. Just get a thin pin drift and a thin cold chisel/tough screwdriver. and drive it between the outer sleeve and the arm. this forces the outer sleeve to deform inwards which reduces the diameter of the bush and it falls out. I have done a doz or so like this and never failed to get the bush out.
I find that a hole saw the diameter of the rubber, drilled through the rubber works well, all you gotta do then is punch out the outer sleeve as above. ....but.... horses for courses and all that
smckeown73
Active Member
As i'm in the middle of replacing the rear suspension and fuel tank, I thought it was excellent timing to start a new job.
I have had this rear door in my garage for a good 6 months, so as the weather is nice and warm, I've decided to get cracking...
I'm using the Tekaloid paint as per the coachpainting.info/ excellent site. Here's the first coat...
I have had this rear door in my garage for a good 6 months, so as the weather is nice and warm, I've decided to get cracking...
I'm using the Tekaloid paint as per the coachpainting.info/ excellent site. Here's the first coat...
Billy B
Well-Known Member
Top thread, did you sort out the rusty holes on the rear cross member?
