Rodeo Joe · Dec 22, 2019

Blackburn said:
easily if the engine fitted was not available 30 years ago.

I know what you're saying but the 2.5l engines were about 35 years ago and use the same mounts as a 200 tdi so a mod. could have been done to the chassis decades ago and 2 or 3 different engines used in the vehicle since then.It would be nigh on impossible to tell what was done when in that case, a 200tdi might have been fitted 2 years ago to mounts that were modified 35 years ago and that would not affect the status of the car.
Its all a very grey area and until some unfortunate ends up confronted with VOSA about it nothing is likely to be any clearer.

rob1miles · Dec 28, 2019

I do think we are runing before walking. By now these vehicles are 50 odd years old and most carry a lot of mods. Getting a original one working is hard enough but every mod adds complexity and uncertainty as more and more parts are "bespoke" and while "bespoke" and "special" sound exciting they are not fun when you discover it will take weeks and £s to get a replacement. I run a 3.3L Perkins that is a decent conversion done sometime in the 80s and the engine is "in period" (1969) but my exhaust downpipe is on its last legs. Tail pipe and middle pipes are £20 each, dowmpipe - £300 plus and I have to take the vehicle in to be measured and fitted. .
Buy a scruffy but drivable Series, drive it and get it working as it should, then you will really know what you absolutely can't live with and what you have come to like. Don't be surpised if you like it the way it is. Most "improvements" look a lot better on paper (or in the imagination) than they turn out.

Turboman · Dec 29, 2019

rob1miles said:
I do think we are runing before walking. By now these vehicles are 50 odd years old and most carry a lot of mods. Getting a original one working is hard enough but every mod adds complexity and uncertainty as more and more parts are "bespoke" and while "bespoke" and "special" sound exciting they are not fun when you discover it will take weeks and £s to get a replacement. I run a 3.3L Perkins that is a decent conversion done sometime in the 80s and the engine is "in period" (1969) but my exhaust downpipe is on its last legs. Tail pipe and middle pipes are £20 each, dowmpipe - £300 plus and I have to take the vehicle in to be measured and fitted. .
Buy a scruffy but drivable Series, drive it and get it working as it should, then you will really know what you absolutely can't live with and what you have come to like. Don't be surpised if you like it the way it is. Most "improvements" look a lot better on paper (or in the imagination) than they turn out.

My Perkins engined Series had a Series exhaust with the top piece of the downpipe cut off, and a bit of the exhaust that was on the engine in it's original application bolted on to the manifold. A foot of flexible exhaust pipe pushed over the two stubs, couple of exhaust clamps clamping the ends of the flexi.
Probably cost about a tenner, and lasted the entire ten years I had the vehicle.

rob1miles · Jan 2, 2020

I may copy that. £10 is in my budget range. Problem I have is that the manifold is also a special and its getting very thin. I've welded one hole up but its borrowed time. Plan is to get a header made that links the engine to a std LR down pipe then it will be easier next time.

Turboman · Jan 2, 2020

rob1miles said:
I may copy that. £10 is in my budget range. Problem I have is that the manifold is also a special and its getting very thin. I've welded one hole up but its borrowed time. Plan is to get a header made that links the engine to a std LR down pipe then it will be easier next time.

Perkins still exist, and are quite helpful with advice about older stuff. Most of the people that work there seem to take a pride in the company, and are interested in the older product that has gone on for years.
Or, if you know what kind of application the engine was originally fitted in, you might be able to get a manifold off one of those.

Failing that, the manifold on mine was all straight tube, apart from two flanges with two holes in that bolted to the engine. so an easy job for a fabricator.
These engines are not sensitive to exhaust back pressure or manifold shape in the way that modern ones are.
The only critical things are enough diameter to flow the required amount of gas, and leak free.

rob1miles · Jan 2, 2020

I will get it sorted, I like the Perkins (its why I picked this Series) as its very good on economy. simple and ideal for our driving - loaded as a camper. Now its rebuilt the performance is good - up to 65mph and so is economy - probably 30 mpg or more and there's very little to go wrong. Its rated at 63 hp (I think its from a Dodge Step-thru van, its dated '69) but i suspect its putting out more as we are a LWB with a 2" lift, Dormobile roof and roof rack. Its pulling 2000 rpm at 60.

Turboman · Jan 2, 2020

rob1miles said:
I will get it sorted, I like the Perkins (its why I picked this Series) as its very good on economy. simple and ideal for our driving - loaded as a camper. Now its rebuilt the performance is good - up to 65mph and so is economy - probably 30 mpg or more and there's very little to go wrong. Its rated at 63 hp (I think its from a Dodge Step-thru van, its dated '69) but i suspect its putting out more as we are a LWB with a 2" lift, Dormobile roof and roof rack. Its pulling 2000 rpm at 60.

I love em. Plenty of power, all you need to do is get the gearing right. Mine had Ashcroft high ratio transfer box. It would do about 55mph on the speedo, maybe a bit more genuine. And it always returned 30mpg. And the power curve was perfect for off road driving.
Mine was from a Commer van, which I think is the same thing but re-badged.
I have had several similar Perkins engines in tractors, boats, etc.
All 100% reliable, you just change the oil and fliters, set the tappets every few years, they will go on pretty much for ever.

Rodeo Joe

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rob1miles

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Turboman

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rob1miles

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Turboman

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rob1miles

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Turboman

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