Rossy

Rossy

Active Member
Ok with help from the Twins (Both lads and only 7) all lights work!!
I'm gob smacked how much of the electricals work on this for 19years old.
One front Fog light did not come on...but soon as I touched it...yup on.
Cleaned up and now ok..
For MOT the only thing I have an issue with electrical is rear wash sqirter!
Motor plug loose (guess from previous inner wing work) thats running but only dribbles from the broken clipped jets at rear...new jet ordered.
Then its welding...I'll have to do the sills, only on rear doors, i.e. sill at rear doors. Rear arches and very small hole passanger front...

My main concirn is boot floor, as I look up its gone in places, but there is clearly new metal above! So looks like a dodgy job..
Will take carpet out to investigate fully...
But if its had a floor tacked in place above old one, if I clean up the underside would it be ok? Do not fancy trying to remove a new floor welded in over the top of old!!!!! Could end up being a nightmere this...and was going so well!!
 
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Yeh, but be nice to have it working...
Anyone got thoughts on the boot floor issue? Or should I wait until the carpets up and see whats been done 1st?
 
I'd wait for the mot man to do his bit first, and then address anything that needs doing after.
 
Agree with chrisw8. No point making work for yourself.if he notices and advises it then get it done in next year.if it fails get it dun asap.
 
Previous owner MOT'd 3 month ago...I have the fail sheet and nothing on the boot..just looks a mess from underside...why can't people cut out the old rot?
There are holes with CRUST around edges, but fresh steel above...I'll neaten it up I think...just me but bit picky...
Also once welding done, sealed etc I prefer inner arches body colour not black...but that just me..again, and a coat of Hammerite Silver never does harm over gray-stripe seal...
 
If the new boot floor has been welded in ok id say clean up what you can in the under side and rust proof with your product of choice and forget
 
Is the crusty stuff d waxoil and not rotten matal. I showed my mot guy the welding id dun . He saw crusty metal. It was waxoyl that was curling over.
 
haigy said:
Is the crusty stuff d waxoil and not rotten matal. I showed my mot guy the welding id dun . He saw crusty metal. It was waxoyl that was curling over.
Click to expand...

Yeah i thought that on mine at first but realised after probing that it wasnt rust but waxoyl peeling away. Solid underneath!
 
The previous owner of mine waxoild over the rot so it was fun stripping it all back and welding it all solid.and re waxoiling. Boot was done at same time so should be all good
 
No clearly holed as can see the new metal above...brassed off and all the other welding I've done I'm happy with...whoever did it simply welded flat sheet over the entire boot floor above...so its solid but looks a right mess from below looking up.
I'm thinking cut away what I can and TACK to above new metal (also worried about rattle and bangs. Then smooth over with gray strip and paint. Any Pokin will be solid, plus **** and water can get in at the mo and thats just asking for more rot!. If it had not been welded in and a complete pain to remove I'd put a new floor in...
that said if it goes though MOT its a job for later maybe as sure to take ages...

Are there ANY points on the floor from below that are "structural" FOR mot, i know seat belts go through it to chassis, but its gone on the floor near the top of the rear suspention mounts...even though these are on the chassis and solid, right next to it if the rotten floor...could this be a fail? (even tho fresh metal above)???
Thanks Chaps...
 
As far as I know, the boot floor is in no way structural. seatbelt mount points must be secure obviously, but these only pass through the floor from the chassis.

My own interpretation of the "within 12 inches of a suspension / body mount" means part of the same structure - so if the chassis is alright the floor is irrelevant - rear body mounts 'should' rely on the body crossmember.

Of course, an awful lot is down to how the particular tester interprets 'structural' and to some extent what experience they have with vehicles with a chassis - they are a different animal to a monocoque.

My advice would always be to do what you think is obvious, then submit it for test - if it fails, use the 'free retest' (look up the limitations) facility to sort out the fail points.

The floor in mine is pretty ropey, and it went through an mot on Monday...
 
IMAG0295_zps20fd152b.jpg


OK this is what I'm on about...should I leave it as is, or seal and paint??
I'm in two minds....at least like this MOT man can see there's fresh metal above....
However I think it needs sealing as there's basically a cavity, water gets in only gonna make things worse...I don't know...what to do...
 
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Its basically ready for the MOT now...put rear carpet back, good hover and clean up....once I decide what to do with above...
 
In that location I would personally argue the point if it was deemed a failure.

From that picture (and if the shinier bit is indeed actually steel above the hole) what you should really do is cut it all out and start again.

Sealing/painting is all well and good, but if it was done 'before' then you're going to be sealing moisture in as well as out........

I don't know what your chosen MOT inspector is like, but a lot I've seen would be a bit suspicious of 'new' sealing over the top of flaky, rough, pitted metal.
 
pauldg said:
In that location I would personally argue the point if it was deemed a failure.

From that picture (and if the shinier bit is indeed actually steel above the hole) what you should really do is cut it all out and start again.

Sealing/painting is all well and good, but if it was done 'before' then you're going to be sealing moisture in as well as out........

I don't know what your chosen MOT inspector is like, but a lot I've seen would be a bit suspicious of 'new' sealing over the top of flaky, rough, pitted metal.
Click to expand...

Na, my old Disco passed an MOT with holes way bigger than that all round the book floor. Critically, it was much sounder in the arches near the belt mounts and body mounts to chassis had been welded up recently. Holes on the rear back and sides should be ok unless you get the MOT equivalent of Gordon Brittas doing your test.
 
Fail, only on the boot foor....wish I'd have a propper look as the so called new one was yup, silconed in!!!
Quite glad as it will be easier to remove...
So with a new boot floor it will be MOT'd!!!

Watch this space....as I strip out the boot....hope nothing else found....that my only worrie now, but at least I know its worth spending on...so full steam ahead!!
 
Oh also now I've had a chance to drive it PROPPER, it drives well...
Is the stearing wheel on multi splines or one of those hex things as its to cok when going in strieght line and I hate that!!!???
 
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