Not bad. Just need a dial guage to set it.
That is an old EGR engine from a BMW or Omega. Pre 1997. i don't see how it is a low miler. You will have to change the sump over and the injection pump (If it will fit) if you have a plastic manifold on your car for EGR it will not fit on that head. I personally would give it a miss and find a proper engine.
The engine can be made to fit. You will have to change the sump for your sump. The injection pump for yours, which will need timing and the exhaust manifold for yours. With other things depending if yours is manual or automatic. Use all your existing electrical looms. You must have a very early registered 98 car, model year 1997 without EGR. All model year 1998 had EGR. Get someone who knows what they are doing to change everything over for you. Everything is easy if you know what you are doing, but not if you don't.
Look for one that looks like this. Note position of dipstick and different sump to the one you showed and that head is capable of accepting either manifold. This is the Land rover version of the M51 engine made in or after 1998.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROV...:MK+II&hash=item4aeb1e5255:g:KK8AAOSwpDdVQ1pa
leclkada
Member
gocha ok do you know any for sale
I think ill leave that one I really need a complete ready to drop in one as I don't have the knowledge to start messing with pumps and I don't know anyone around here to help
I only got this to take us camping with our trailer tent and tow my daughters horse box I wish id got a Mondeo now lol
I think ill leave that one I really need a complete ready to drop in one as I don't have the knowledge to start messing with pumps and I don't know anyone around here to help
I only got this to take us camping with our trailer tent and tow my daughters horse box I wish id got a Mondeo now lol
Complete ready to drop in ones that are any good are like hens teeth. Plenty of junk like the one you pictured out of Omegas and BMWs that need all sorts of work doing to convert them. With the one i showed all you need to do is swap ancillaries. Remove the vac pump and fit the blanking plate from your engine. You will also need an harmonic balance if yours is knackered as you say. And it is from a reputable firm. But your choice i suppose. What is wrong with yours anyway?
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Sluggish is easy. Harmonic balance is going to cost. Overheating could be a few things, from easy to sort to a cracked head. No detail of this given so crystal ball stuff without precise info.
leclkada
Member
where do I start brought it home drove 30 miles all ok apart from some rattling under the bonnet last 10 miles it overheated
got it hove the following day and couldn't see the water circulating so got a water pump and new thermostat stripped it down pulled water pump and thermostat out both good noticed down on the bottom of the engine behind pulley wheel (see pic 1) there is a plate and it was loose (that's the rattling found ) its has 1 or 2 2 oil leaks can really see how many as its caked in oil and it don't have a great deal of oomph oh and we broke the belt tensioner bracket but that was my fault
got it hove the following day and couldn't see the water circulating so got a water pump and new thermostat stripped it down pulled water pump and thermostat out both good noticed down on the bottom of the engine behind pulley wheel (see pic 1) there is a plate and it was loose (that's the rattling found ) its has 1 or 2 2 oil leaks can really see how many as its caked in oil and it don't have a great deal of oomph oh and we broke the belt tensioner bracket but that was my fault
Nature of the overheat is what i need to know. Could just be knackered viscous fan if it overheated after coming down from high speed when sat in traffic. Sluggish could be MAP sensor clogged or pressure pipe to it blocked or leaking. Lots to look at before fitting a replacement engine of unknown quality that maybe just as bad. Yours maybe leaking oil but at least you know it runs after a fashion without belching smoke and rattling. You need someone who knows what they are doing to assess it.
leclkada
Member
it was doing a steady 60 on the dual carriageway with the temp gauge at about 12 o'clock on to a slight incline and the temp shot up into the red so we pulled in to let it cool when pulled in it was rough idling and cut out (expansion tank bubbling ) half hour later started no probs idling fine pulled of but within half mile temp up and back to bad idling and it was like it for the ne8 miles so we parked it up in a car park about 5 miles from home and rang a not to please wife to come get us whent to collect car following day it drove 3 miles then back ot overheating
You need someone who knows his stuff to pressure test it and assess it. If you are playing with something you don't understand you are in for a very long and could be very expensive steep learning curve.
You have a choice to make, either spend a few bob putting it back as it should be and seeing what you get or going for your other option of changing the engine. You could end up disappointed either way.
