patrickr90
Member
Jumper's a good idea. I'll definitely make one up and keep it in the toolkit for emergencies. Yes, agree about the relay. Seems over the top.
Jumper's a good idea. I'll definitely make one up and keep it in the toolkit for emergencies. Yes, agree about the relay. Seems over the top.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Is the clickeing the glow plug relay? Or is yours under the bonnet
Nothing else clicks near my fuse box(early glass fuse type)
Nothing else clicks near my fuse box(early glass fuse type)
patrickr90
Member
Thanks for this. Totally clarifies what should be happening. Mine's slightly different in that the Brown/Red is white in my case. I think my relay has 5 terminals but the one in the middle doesn't seem to have a connecting cable.
patrickr90
Member
Ah, could be. I don't actually know where that is, and I don't yet know what the other relays under the fuses are..... Need to find that out..... Wiring diagram (which I THINK is right for my year) also says brake check relay???
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
No cable in the middle is correct.
tottot
Well-Known Member
Intermittent is how mine was for a while so I had the under bonnet lash up and then the jumper until I sorted it.
Some other relay behind the main group would click when testing mine [1990 19j]
No glow plug relay on pre Defender model diesels just a heavy duty ignition switch unit. Can be changed without removing the steering lock but one of the screws is a right faf.
Some other relay behind the main group would click when testing mine [1990 19j]
No glow plug relay on pre Defender model diesels just a heavy duty ignition switch unit. Can be changed without removing the steering lock but one of the screws is a right faf.
patrickr90
Member
Hi. Latest on my woes! The white cable at the relay IS getting a regular supply of 10.3v every time I turn the ignition to crank. I think my early test must have been a mistake. Testing at the back of the ignition switch also gets 10.30v.
Why 10.3v and not 12+v? Does the voltage drop indicate something else going on?
Anyway, it proves there is a supply getting to the relay every time. So, unless the relay doesn't work with a reduced voltage, it points to the relay? But I've swapped it with others and still get intermittent result. I think I'll resort to a jumper lead to get me out of trouble. But i'd like to try to solve the problem at the relay area. I might try buying a new relay. The one I've got is attached and the numbers on it are:
86 87A 87
85 30/51
Can I just walk into an auto shop and pick one up?
Thanks
Why 10.3v and not 12+v? Does the voltage drop indicate something else going on?
Anyway, it proves there is a supply getting to the relay every time. So, unless the relay doesn't work with a reduced voltage, it points to the relay? But I've swapped it with others and still get intermittent result. I think I'll resort to a jumper lead to get me out of trouble. But i'd like to try to solve the problem at the relay area. I might try buying a new relay. The one I've got is attached and the numbers on it are:
86 87A 87
85 30/51
Can I just walk into an auto shop and pick one up?
Thanks
Attachments
Automotive Relay Guide | 12 Volt Planet
Read our guide to relays found in vehicle electrical systems. How they work, why they're used and some example applications
www.12voltplanet.co.uk
tottot
Well-Known Member
Voltage readings are not the be all and end all of how well an wire delivers power, if it can not supply sufficient amps things will not work.
This goes for any other connection such as the spade connection on the starter. Poor connection, no starty.
Easy to make up some wires to test a relay direct from a battery.
This goes for any other connection such as the spade connection on the starter. Poor connection, no starty.
Easy to make up some wires to test a relay direct from a battery.
patrickr90
Member
Thanks for this. I tested the relay on the bench, as you suggested. Seemed to work well (ie, activated the higher amp circuit), but not in the vehicle. Swapped another relay in and it worked. Either the original relay is unreliable or there's some sort of loose connection in the panel. Relay seems tight when it goes in though..... Will see if it starts in the morning on the swapped relay....
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
That’s probally an original relay. Mine were like that. Unsure what relay size these are.
I had a (landrover) green 5pin relay laying around & have been using this.
If it’s not the relay causing your problem it’s the ignition switch on the rear of the barrel
I had a (landrover) green 5pin relay laying around & have been using this.
If it’s not the relay causing your problem it’s the ignition switch on the rear of the barrel
patrickr90
Member
Hi. Thanks for that. I'll see what the auto shop has. I'll keep an eye on the ignition switch but it's consistently giving me a reading.
