EeEk said:

A brake pipe with rust on it should not fail a mot. An "excessively" corroded brake pipe will fail a mot.

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This owner is clearly all over his brake system

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Stanleysteamer said:

And also, once replaced you won't need to do it again for ages.
Can't mess about with brakes.

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Si Click said:

Marco, sorry to bring bad news, but if the solid brake lines are rusty then they should be replaced. I don't think that internal rust would be likely, but the potential for the external rust to weaken the pipe enough for the internal pressure to force a rupture leading to a catastrophic brake failure, is significant. In the UK rust on brake pipes would almost certainly cause the vehicle to fail it's annual MOT (UK roadworthiness test).

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Stanleysteamer said:

+1^

If you have the relatively simple gear to make them up, you can make your own out of Kunifer, and they won't rust.
https://www.google.com/search?q=kun...0l3j0i395l3.2159j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
A brake pipe flaring tool for copper doesn't have to be as strong.
Us in the kit car game make them up all the time.
Or elses you get pros to make them up or you buy a set.
That's about it really.

Altho it may be possible to just replace the rusty bits by cutting and inserting new steel pipe.
But if you do that agin you'll need to make the flared ends.

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tilly2 said:

Mine had a similar issue last year... Front left and rear right calipers stuck on. Luckily I was only 1/4 mile away from home, so I loosened off the pipes to these from the master cylinder and limped home. One hand on the handbrake. Replaced the master cylinder, and that fixed it. I did notice you had already done this though...

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EeEk said:

I know

I just think its amusing that and were now at the brake pipes rusting on the inside....FFs the chassis of a disco will be long gone before the brake pipes rust from the inside.

The list at the beginning doesn't mention discs....so new pads on old discs and everything is supposed to sit perfectly. Start with the obvious

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NPG said:

I tend to agree with you and I do think that there is no direct evidence yet that the ABS mod is suspect. If I were the OP, I would connect the master cylinder directly to the brake lines leading to the binding calipers (one on the primary port & one the secondary port) and see what happens. You can either use the old flexi pipes to bridge between pipes or simply connect the corresponding brake tubes on the ABS mod with female to female adapters.

Note : Do not carry out road tests with this configuration. Only applicable for garage testing.

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Si Click said:

True, but without any evidence you have no idea how close to excessively corroded the OP's vehicle is. This owner is clearly all over his brake system, but by the time most owners notice their pipes are rusty, they are probably already fairly terminal. If he is unsure himself if the rust is an issue, surely the best advice is not to ignore them and concentrate on the rest of the system, but to have them assessed by someone experienced enough to tell if they are excessively corroded or not.

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EeEk said:

Does that translate into the owner doesnt have a ****ing clue....thats why hes here asking some other copy n pasters for an answer to something that 3 workshops say doesnt exist. As for binding....where...when? Its been road tested and all brakes are the same temp....??? wheres the binding?

Once a second hand modulator is fitted and all the brake pipes are changed, it'll be fixed ...assuming the second hand modulator is perfect

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Marcolandy said:

Thanks for the link.
As is essential feature regarding security, I don't dare to do it myself. But I will send the garage the link for the kunfier brake pipe.
Thanks for all your help. Really helpfull, appreciate that a lot.

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Stanleysteamer said:

You'll scare them sh!tless! they won't be used to doing anything other than buying in sets of brake pipes ready made up and fitting them.
they may not even have the gear to make the flared ends!
If I was you, i'd get the modulator sorted out first before replacing rusty pipes, unless they are so rusty that brake fluid is actually leaking out of them.
One thing at a time, i.e. sort out the initial problem first.

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