Good evening to you all I'm a forum newby so I'm a novice to all this. I have a Disco 2 V8 gas conversion ES model, the vehicle it self has only covered 89,000 miles FSH but has been used for pulling boats in and out of water, the problem i have is that the rear ASC pipes leaked so i have replaced them due to the corosion underneath the pipe where difficult to get out of the pump (I think that is the pump) i got them out eventully but the new ones leak i have changed the seals twice but no fix. My dileamer is i was adviced at last MOT of the front pipes are corroded and would need changing Do i replace or disconnect ACE all together. If i keep what is cusing the leak, i have the pipe in the correct way i checked i have a service manual which shows you the correct pipe to connect to top or bottom any help would be appricated :scratching_chin:
From other threads i've read on here, is that you can either replace the whole or in part the ACE pipe work which is timely and costly, or do away with ACE altogether whereby the system is replaced with an anti roll bar setup, I think the cost is circa £300, but don't quote me on that.
I'm having problems with my ACE, in that I need to replace the front ACE actuator, and on further inspection, the bushes in the long arm, which you can see the actuator in the front right hand side wheel arch. This involves taking off the front torsion bar and changing the defective items, it's going well really so chuffed with myself
The choice is yours to replace or repair the pipework, also consider that your repairs may not be effective as the system runs at circa 200 bar (so I believe).
edit: Are you trying to replace the seals in the rear actuator ? The actuator looks like a small suspension unit if that helps ?
Hope that helps from my limited knowledge !
I'm having problems with my ACE, in that I need to replace the front ACE actuator, and on further inspection, the bushes in the long arm, which you can see the actuator in the front right hand side wheel arch. This involves taking off the front torsion bar and changing the defective items, it's going well really so chuffed with myself
The choice is yours to replace or repair the pipework, also consider that your repairs may not be effective as the system runs at circa 200 bar (so I believe).
edit: Are you trying to replace the seals in the rear actuator ? The actuator looks like a small suspension unit if that helps ?
Hope that helps from my limited knowledge !
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biggeeeee
Retired - Living the dream
Just removed the ACE from my 51 plate Discovery due to leaking pipes.
More hassle than its worth in my opinion plus at around £90 a pipe to replace and then the problem of trying to seal the new ones.
Here's what I replaced
RBL101370 Non ACE front Anti Roll bar
RBX101690 Front Anti Roll Bar Bush x 2
RBU100240 Anti Roll Bar Bracket x 4
RBM100223 Front Anti Roll Bar Drop Link x 2
RGB101320 Non ACE rear Anti Roll bar
RGD100682 Rear Anti Roll Bar Drop Link x 2
ERR6949 Idler Pulley
PQS101500 Aux Drive Belt (Non ACE with A/C)
Hope this helps
More hassle than its worth in my opinion plus at around £90 a pipe to replace and then the problem of trying to seal the new ones.
Here's what I replaced
RBL101370 Non ACE front Anti Roll bar
RBX101690 Front Anti Roll Bar Bush x 2
RBU100240 Anti Roll Bar Bracket x 4
RBM100223 Front Anti Roll Bar Drop Link x 2
RGB101320 Non ACE rear Anti Roll bar
RGD100682 Rear Anti Roll Bar Drop Link x 2
ERR6949 Idler Pulley
PQS101500 Aux Drive Belt (Non ACE with A/C)
Hope this helps
Hi Bigeeee I`m new to forum, live in Glasgow and I wish to remove the ace system from my disco due to constant leakage etc, can you tell me where you got the work done please?
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
where is the leak? at the valve block?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
IF the actuators are not leaking here's a rapid and cheap fix:
1. reroute the pump's outlet in the return to reservoir...you need a short piece of hose on the outlet and an addaptor cos afaik the return pipe is smaller(this way the pump will recirculate the fluid and it will not wear out
2. cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in them and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum, fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)
max. 20 quid if you DIY
1. reroute the pump's outlet in the return to reservoir...you need a short piece of hose on the outlet and an addaptor cos afaik the return pipe is smaller(this way the pump will recirculate the fluid and it will not wear out
2. cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in them and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum, fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)
max. 20 quid if you DIY
Get rid of it!
I spent a fortune repairing mine 2 years ago, as already mentioned above approx 90 quid a pipe or more. It is difficult to get them to seal and at high operating pressures thetiniest flaw will cause a problem. Since changing all my pipes I still have a constant humming noise at around idle revs which I have had tolear to live with. Fitting a brand new pump at over 300 quid did not rectify this so can only assu me problem is in the modulator block which is the block bolted to chassis located right under drivers backside. I think this is where you are having leaks from. The pump is under the bonnet. Im not changing the block as its most likely the problem is is a small amount of abrasives having enterec system during work. Very difficult to prevent and all work must be done In spotlessly clean conditions to even stand a chance. Lastly, the pipes are originally fitted to chassis and rest of disco built around it, the replacement pipes are slightly different fro original and difficult to fit while ensuring isolating from contacting other parts of vehicle. Any contact leads to noise. I still have my ace and my td5 does corner very well but despite this, if I could turn back time id have fitted standard bars and idler pulley 2 years ago. If I wanted to corner fast id have a completely different car
I spent a fortune repairing mine 2 years ago, as already mentioned above approx 90 quid a pipe or more. It is difficult to get them to seal and at high operating pressures thetiniest flaw will cause a problem. Since changing all my pipes I still have a constant humming noise at around idle revs which I have had tolear to live with. Fitting a brand new pump at over 300 quid did not rectify this so can only assu me problem is in the modulator block which is the block bolted to chassis located right under drivers backside. I think this is where you are having leaks from. The pump is under the bonnet. Im not changing the block as its most likely the problem is is a small amount of abrasives having enterec system during work. Very difficult to prevent and all work must be done In spotlessly clean conditions to even stand a chance. Lastly, the pipes are originally fitted to chassis and rest of disco built around it, the replacement pipes are slightly different fro original and difficult to fit while ensuring isolating from contacting other parts of vehicle. Any contact leads to noise. I still have my ace and my td5 does corner very well but despite this, if I could turn back time id have fitted standard bars and idler pulley 2 years ago. If I wanted to corner fast id have a completely different car
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Hi I am not mechanically minded so unsure where actual leak is, had in garage and mechanic said pipe at front was leaking, he tried sealing however did not work, I am going to get rid and fit anti roll bars, just need a reliable garage to do the work. Fan belt snapped yesterday also so not sure if linked to ace problem!!
Thanks for this but I did change them all. I wish I hadnt and you had just cracked it
.
meego
Well-Known Member
Not if he does away with ACE though. Idler replaces pump.
Oops lost track of original thread
. Yeh of course. Think thats what id definetly be doing now faced with cost of new pump on top of pipes, seals etc.I have the same leaking ace actuator problem. It's leaking from the threads on the unit. I've tried sealing but still leaks, pump etc all still works ok . Can anyone recommend somewhere local to stourbridge to have it removed. Or if some one wants to come and remove it they can have the pipes and pump for free if they fit the new jockey wheel and belt?
Howday I'm Johnny a brand new newbie just out the box here
I have a 1999 TD5 Disco
ACE is leaking bad from n/s front the bitty that looks like a shocker
I want to remove ace and fit lift kit new springs and shockers
Anyone know what all I would need other than springs shockers and removal of ACE system ?
Also is there a dude on here to purchase aforemention bittys from other than trawling the net only to find out I could have used a fellow member
Thanks in advance bwana's :rolly:
I have a 1999 TD5 Disco
ACE is leaking bad from n/s front the bitty that looks like a shocker
I want to remove ace and fit lift kit new springs and shockers
Anyone know what all I would need other than springs shockers and removal of ACE system ?
Also is there a dude on here to purchase aforemention bittys from other than trawling the net only to find out I could have used a fellow member
Thanks in advance bwana's :rolly:
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MJI
Well-Known Member
Howday I'm Johnny a brand new newbie just out the box here
I have a 1999 TD5 Disco
ACE is leaking bad from n/s front the bitty that looks like a shocker
I want to remove ace and fit lift kit new springs and shockers
Anyone know what all I would need other than springs shockers and removal of ACE system ?
Also is there a dude on here to purchase aforemention bittys from other than trawling the net only to find out I could have used a fellow member
Thanks in advance bwana's :rolly:
Might be worth seeing if anyone has that part so the picture above doesn't resemble your car
