A

angelkint

New Member
Hello. Let me introduce myself, my name is David and I am from Spain. I apologize for my bad English.

I have a Freelander TD4 (Year 2004). It needed urgent MAF replace. After reading this post: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/important-maf-information-hopefully-useful-all-100858.html I decided to buy a brand new 7.22684.09.0 Pierburg MAF. The problem went today, when I mounted it. In neutral, engine revs up very slowly. When I tested it on the road, I've seen that the car is dead below 2700 rpm, and then wake up until 3600 rpm, but with low torque. I'm very dissapointed and I don't know if I'm doing something bad. For the moment I left battery disconnected all night, for try if reseting ECU improves something.

Any ideas on what could be happening?

Thanks.
 
markwizard said:
Hi David

Do you also have a Synergy unit fitted?

Mark
Click to expand...


Hi Mark

I did not buy Synergy unit, because after reading the post I linked before, I had understood that this new Pierburg MAF with temperature sensor incorporated, was direct replacement for stock Bosch MAF, and don't needed MAFAM, or Synergy unit.

What is more strange, this morning after having disconnected the battery overnight, the car was much better (though not as it should), but lasted only a few kilometers, then turned to go wrong.

Regards.
 
Hi,
Why did you need to change the MAF?
What were the original symptoms?
How does it run with the MAF disconnected?
Post up some more info and I am sure the learned ones on here will share their wisdom.
 
Similar fault to this thread.......
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-lack-power-71139.html

I've experienced this even when changing to an OEM Bosch Maf but didn't get the chance to explore a fix...... in Alan's case (and mine) disconnecting the Maf to force a default strategy resulted in the engine running normally. Alan's final fix was to replace the Map sensor. It would be interesting to know if it also works for you.
 
Last edited:
TD John said:
Hi,
Why did you need to change the MAF?
What were the original symptoms?
How does it run with the MAF disconnected?
Post up some more info and I am sure the learned ones on here will share their wisdom.
Click to expand...

Hi,

The symptoms of my old and faulty MAF, were the death of the engine from 3.000 rpm. And also lack of power in general. The car looked as if it had 5 heavy guys in. When I tried one Bosch MAF with about 40k miles (LR mechanic had one removed from a sinister Freelander for make tests, and he kindly let me try), the car seemed other.

I have not tried to disconnect the MAF. I will try and post results.


Chaser said:
Similar fault to this thread.......
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-lack-power-71139.html

I've experienced this even when changing to an OEM Bosch Maf but didn't get the chance to explore a fix...... in Alan's case (and mine) disconnecting the Maf to force a default strategy resulted in the engine running normally. Alan's final fix was to replace the Map sensor. It would be interesting to know if it also works for you.
Click to expand...


Yes, it look's similar, but in my case the old faulty MAF, and 40k miles Maf I also tried, worked better than this brand new Pierburg.


More info. I changed all injectors 1200 miles ago, also the engine oil and all filters.

I have on the way a EGR Bypass kit. I also have a new engine breather (I don't know the exact name, this part: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/8510298.jpg) ready to replace the old. But my initial intention was not to mount any of these pieces up after changing the Maf, because I wanted to see how it affected the car just change the Maf.


In short, we have a engine running better with 2 old Bosch Maf (one much better than the older), and engine running poorly with brand new Pierburg Maf, that is supposed to be a direct replacement for stock Bosch Maf.

Regards.
 
Ok, I'm going to try to answer with Quick Reply, given that posts published from Advanced just not published.

TD John: Because the engine had no power from 3.000 rpm, and also had lack of power in all band of rpm. I had no tried to disconnect MAF, but I tried a Bosch MAF in good condition and the engine performance improved a lot.

Chaser: Yes it's similar case, but in my case the faulty old Bosch MAF, and another Bosch in good condition worked better than the Pierburg, supposed to be directment replace part for Bosch.

I'm almost decided to buy Synergy 2, but I have the hesitate of why this new Pierburg that worked well in some people (like the autor of the post I linked in my first post) without any MAFAM and Synergy 2, don't works in my car.

Thanks for your help.
 
May be worth trying it with the MAF disconnected and posting back as a common reference point.
You will then have a default setting reference.
The original Maff reference.
The second Maf (better?) reference and the Pierburgh reference.
Them with some experience on this forum may then be able to judge what you find against the performance in the default setting mode.
Hope you get a fix soon.
Best to get it running right before fitting a Synergy as the changes in fuel mapping will make any existing small faults appear much worse - other than compensating for a failing MAF.
 
Hi.

Today I changed crankcase breather, and fitted EGR Bypass. Also cleaned Intake Manifold. With original Maf, the improvement of power have been quite notable, especially in low rpm. Later I disconnected Maf, and the car runs better. Tomorrow will try to fit Pierburg again.

For the moment, of all configs I tried, the best was with second Bosch (in better condition than mine), tied with Pierburg when I left the battery disconnected (I did two different nights, and two mornings worked, but for little miles/minutes), next Maf disconnected, next original Maf, and finally new Pierburg almost all the time, what with it fitted, the car is dangerous to drive because of lack of power below around 2700 rpm.

Say that 1400 miles ago, I changed 4 injectors, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, and engine oil.

Time to buy Synergy 2?

Well, I will update when fit Pierburg again.

Regards.
 
Hi,

Tried Pierburg this morning and it not works. Improved a little in low rpm, but still undriveable.

Maybe its not true that its a direct replacement part of original Bosch? In fact, there is only one person that confirmed it...

Regards.
 
Better with MAF disconnected points to duff MAF.
Second Bosch MAF better points to same conclusion.
Fitting Pierburgh worse - duff Pierburgh?
You need more info re. the Pierburgh swap.
Synergy does improve failing Bosch MAF so may help and does compensate for old Pieburgh MAF.
There have been reports of MAF's fitted by dealers being duff straight out of the box.
Anyone using a direct Pierburgh replacement who can help out here??
 
I have a pierburg on mine, no hugh problems, ie, low end torque is a bit low, other wise no problems, mines a 2001 td4
 
I also have a pierburg as recommended by the poster, ordered from Germany, and has the same result, no power, very slow acceleration. I think the poster must have had a duff MAF which gave him the same effect as a disconnected one.
 
Hello.

This morning I fitted the Synergy 2 with old Bosch MAF. Well, the improvement has been huge with mafam ON, and especially with program 10.

But again, more problems.
After 20 minutes driving, while accelerated until 3.500 rpm, engine warning light turned on, and the engine started making a lot of diesel clonk, and bad working. I turned off engine, removed the key, waited for 10 seconds and started engine again, then engine light OFF in idle, but after accelerating again, engine light turned ON again.

Making some tests, I've seen that the light, only turns ON when POWER switch of Synergy 2 is ON, not matter what program, always turns ON.

Also tried disconnecting MAF, and it happens the same, light turns on when power switch is ON.

Now i'm running with MAFAM switch ON and POWER switch off, and the car goes OK.

What's going on?? Please help!
 
if the engine warning light came on there should be a fault code stored which should be of some help here.

could be an overboost due to a faulty boost control solenoid or MAP sensor?....
 
Hello all
My experience with the MAF is that there are different types.
In my previous car Passat TD2.0 I also had a MAF.
The stealer had replaced it and the car drove as a rocket again.
As the Bosch MAF is a Philps product made in Nijmegen where I work
colleagues said that a MAF never goes defect.
It just gets dirty. After cleaning the old MAF in alcohol I placed it back into the Passat and found no difference anymore. (costed 150 Pounds)
When I had some problems with the FL I swapped the VW MAF with FL MAF. This did not work well. The VW MAF did not work untill 3000 rpm
and then suddenly the FL became a rocket. Wauw.
Seeing both MAFs at the outside the FL MAF had a diode placed and the VW MAF had no diode.
After cleaning the FL MAF my car went very well again.
My opinion is that you never have to buy a MAF but clean it on a regular base. Once a year.
Tip: get rid of the 5 star screws and put normal imbus screws in it.
Piet
 
Hi all, just replaced the Bosch MAF with Pierberg 7.22684.09.0, but the TD4 is now "flat" up to 2,000rpm, then takes off like a Banshee.... I'm not keen on this flat-spot, preferred the instant grunt of the old MAF, have I gone wrong? Do i need to do anything else? Incidentally, I've previously fitted an EGR blanking kit, replaced the air filter for a K&N, and changed the crank oil filter for the BMW type seperator, and replaced the fuel filter, any advice welcome, thanks....
 
angelkint said:
Hello.

This morning I fitted the Synergy 2 with old Bosch MAF. Well, the improvement has been huge with mafam ON, and especially with program 10.

But again, more problems.
After 20 minutes driving, while accelerated until 3.500 rpm, engine warning light turned on, and the engine started making a lot of diesel clonk, and bad working. I turned off engine, removed the key, waited for 10 seconds and started engine again, then engine light OFF in idle, but after accelerating again, engine light turned ON again.

Making some tests, I've seen that the light, only turns ON when POWER switch of Synergy 2 is ON, not matter what program, always turns ON.

Also tried disconnecting MAF, and it happens the same, light turns on when power switch is ON.

Now i'm running with MAFAM switch ON and POWER switch off, and the car goes OK.

What's going on?? Please help!
Click to expand...

With a Bosch MAF you are only supposed to use numbers 1 to 5. 6 to 10 are for the Pierburg it's in the instructions
 
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