Hi guys, hope you don't mind me asking a question, I've been putting it off for months, but decided to ask as the summer's getting on a bit now and don't want to miss out the chance to do some Landy DIY.

I've got my hands on a new boot seal and cannot fathom how to remove the old one! (I've looked in the Haynes manual and it doesn't explain fully).

The part I'm trying to replace looks like this:

Freelander - Water Ingress Into Luggage Compartment - Taildoor Seal - Land Rover

I don't have any workshop manuals, so sadly cannot refer to any instructions.

I've gone ahead anyway and undone the plastic rear trim panels (in the boot) on each side of the car. Then unscrewed pulled out the screw fixings of the edge of the headlining.

I can finally prise the bottom of the boot seal off the metal frame of the car, but the sides and top remain firmly 'gripped' by 3 pieces of black external plastic that seem to clamp the side of the seal to the car?

Does anyone possibly know please if there are hidden fixings behind the panels I've enclosed here in some photos?! Would be great to know just how to replace the darn thing instead of giving up. Cheers for any ideas, i'm flummoxed myself. :doh:

Hi TD4,
I needed to remove the two side plastic finishers and the top one to cure a damp problem caused by water leaking past the screws that hold the metal trim plate on, which is located under the top plastic trim. Plastic studs (5 if I remember correctly) mount on the underside of the top trim and clip into the metal trim plate. I used a bolster chisel to GENTLY lever the trim out wards. Do it gradually from one side. However, you will first have to remove the side strips. These are held onto the body by hollow plastic clips (3 I think) which push onto threaded studs welded onto the body. Again, carefully prise up the trim, as evenly as possible. Note that on the top of each side trim is a tongue of plastic which fits into a metal clip on each end of the top plastic finisher. You will inevitably break some of the clips and the channel under the trim, which can be repaired with super glue. New clips can be obtained through LR dealers. Unfortunately, this trim is designed to be fitted once only. Hope this helps, Eric.

Hi Eric thanks for replying so soon and the information you gave me.

So it looks like I have to carefully pull the trim off, from outside rather than search for hidden fixings that don't exist.

Cheers for the help, I'll see how I get on!

Hi TD4,
I have been thinking about what I did re. metal plate under top trim. You may have to remove this (it was rusty on mine) also,to replace the seal. If so, pay particular attention to how the screws are sealed in the nylon fixing nuts. These nylon fixing go through the body and are sealed to the body by tape covering the nylon fixings. I had trouble getting a water tight seal on these nylon fixings. Test by pouring water over the metal plate, then crook you fingers and feel for water in a metal channel, which is inside the vehicle and is normally concealed by the headlining. You will find a cut out at each end of this channel. If water is present you will need to fix this before refitting the top trim plate. It took me two goes to get it right -and breaking more fixings in the process! I can give more help on how I sealed the nylon fixings if required. (symptoms of this problem are wet headlining and water dripping into back of vehicle). Best of luck. Eric.