jee

Active Member
Hi,

I bought a couple of 'new' Wolf door tops for my 110 and as I had a free evening thought I'd pop them on. I had already squirted penetrating oil on the old studs a number of times and two nuts came off but two snapped. No problem I have good ones on the new tops.

Drivers side went on fine and even makes the door shut perfectly! Great. On the to passenger side and, doh!, the studs on this top are wider than the old ones and the top won't drop down into the door.

I don't want to force anything but wonder if it just needs coaxing, or is there a different type of top stud? The thinner ones are threaded all along but these thicker ones are only threaded to the bottom end - how are they fitted to the door top? I can't seem to unscrew them either.

Nothing is ever simple is it!
 
The mounting 'studs' are welded to the frame of the door top, which allows you to put them on/take them off by doing up/ undoing the nuts at the bottom.
Have you got a build-up of rot inside the tube?
Do you have an M10 die that you couls run fown the mounting stud?
When you fit them, give them a good coating of CopperSlip.
 
The threaded studs on my old door tops have 2 threaded sizes on the same stud. From memory, the thicker thread in the door top and the thinner through the door frame with rubber gasket inbetween.
 
The threaded studs on my old door tops have 2 threaded sizes on the same stud. From memory, the thicker thread in the door top and the thinner through the door frame with rubber gasket inbetween.
Mine was welded to the inside of the frame and not screwed in.
 
I replaced the studs on my military door tops with stainless ones. The top of the stud is M8 and screws into the door top, up to a shoulder on the stud. There is a 10mm dia shank which sits in the tubes in the door, and the stud is threaded M10 to accept the nut to hold it all together.
The mild steel original studs took a lot of courage and force to remove from the door top. I used 18” stillsons on mine....
 
I replaced the studs on my military door tops with stainless ones. The top of the stud is M8 and screws into the door top, up to a shoulder on the stud. There is a 10mm dia shank which sits in the tubes in the door, and the stud is threaded M10 to accept the nut to hold it all together.
The mild steel original studs took a lot of courage and force to remove from the door top. I used 18” stillsons on mine....
Thats what I got
 
Thanks for the replies. Someone else suggested cleaning the studs and filing inside the 'tubes' in the door top in case it was some corrosion stopping them from fitting, so tried that but still no good although I might get file to fit a drill and try that, carefully.

I had a series lll top in the garage and checked that - different studs again! So I have narrow fully threaded studs (same thread size top and bottom), ones with a thicker middle section and on the Slll top, studs that are wider the full length!

I can't find anything to say that the door tops ever differed do I think more aggressive filing of the tubes should do it.
 
It sounds like someone replaced the proper studs on your old door tops with threaded bar, the standard studs are expensive for what they are. They are different threads at each end. The studs screw into the door top, they can't be welded as the frames are alloy and the studs steel. (The studs in series door tops are welded as they are steel, and biodegradable.)
When I removed my door tops they were difficult to remove due to the build up of crud and rust, the mounting studs are a tight fit in the door tops.
The holes in the door tops rust and fill up with crud, get a 10mm drill bit and clean out the holes in the door top.
Could be worth coating the studs in grease to prevent the problem re-occurring.
31659-vyr500010-stud-for-110-door-top-1983-84-and-military-90110.jpg

31659-vyr500010-stud-for-110-door-top-1983-84-and-military-90110.jpg
 
Still struggling with this. Bought some threaded bar to use for now but I can’t get the old studs out!

They’re not rusty, or at least not the parts you can see. I’ve tried penetrating fluid which has run down into the door top.

I tried the using 2 nuts method but both nuts turn when I try to unscrew it.

Tried mole grips too!

Any other ideas please?!
 
The safest option has got to be opening up the holes in the door tops, they are supposed to fit, so there can't be much stopping them.
 
The safest option has got to be opening up the holes in the door tops, they are supposed to fit, so there can't be much stopping them.
I'm not sure - it appears there are different types of studs and one seems wider (the type on my door top which won't fit) and the others - see these images of them. Same part number however........
 

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I replaced the studs on my military door tops with stainless ones. The top of the stud is M8 and screws into the door top, up to a shoulder on the stud. There is a 10mm dia shank which sits in the tubes in the door, and the stud is threaded M10 to accept the nut to hold it all together.
The mild steel original studs took a lot of courage and force to remove from the door top. I used 18” stillsons on mine....

I did exactly the same, I also ground a drain hole in the bottom of the tube the stud locates into. As they fill with water, I then stuffed it with grease and jobs a good’un
 

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