but £750 had a new cap, stat poss waterpump op states shiney new bits in the pulley area already sounds like someone has had a go at sorting the prob without luck and punted it on!
just after my first p38 dse had lots of strange cooling system problems costing me a fortune wish i had just had it sniff tested first!!!!!
 
Datatek said:
Quite right, but if the head is cracked, it was probably caused by an overheating problem in the first place, so a complete overhaul of the cooling system is not wasted and indeed should always be done if the head is being replaced.:)
Click to expand...

Im no expert (obviously) but given that i can drive 30 miles without incident (albeit with the needle reading at about a quarter) i cant help feeling this is an intermittent thing.

How long would it take for new coolant to be, well, sniffable? Got in it this morning and within three miles the needle was heading up and up, so had to use the stinky work 90 for my 85 mile round trip to the builders merchant. Got in it this afternoon and over the same three miles the temp was only beginning to reach the dead centre. The hoses werent to solid, right one (top?) hot, left one warm, levels good etc. Bet tonight, itll go straight for the red.

Surlely if head / block / liners gubbed then the problem would be there ALL the time?! Also t'was me who had new stat put in. theres a whole world of black sealent around it and i have noticed some weeping from there. Pretty sure Land Rover didnt send these things out the factory with silicon smearing part of the manufacturing process!

i'll sit it in a dry workshop tonight and look out for leak...
 
dannybays78 said:
Im no expert (obviously) but given that i can drive 30 miles without incident (albeit with the needle reading at about a quarter) i cant help feeling this is an intermittent thing.

How long would it take for new coolant to be, well, sniffable? Got in it this morning and within three miles the needle was heading up and up, so had to use the stinky work 90 for my 85 mile round trip to the builders merchant. Got in it this afternoon and over the same three miles the temp was only beginning to reach the dead centre. The hoses werent to solid, right one (top?) hot, left one warm, levels good etc. Bet tonight, itll go straight for the red.

Surlely if head / block / liners gubbed then the problem would be there ALL the time?! Also t'was me who had new stat put in. theres a whole world of black sealent around it and i have noticed some weeping from there. Pretty sure Land Rover didnt send these things out the factory with silicon smearing part of the manufacturing process!

i'll sit it in a dry workshop tonight and look out for leak...
Click to expand...

Quite a few people have reported problems with new stats, test it in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens and closes properly.
 
I dont see the harm in just taking the stat out and running it and then see if it overheats, if the pump is working it will stay cool, if the pump isn't it will over heat, kill 2 doubts at once, and you'll know if the rad is playing up as well then
 
i ran mine which had a cracked head with no stat in it for a couple of months whilst i found an engine, even towed a caravan on holiday!
temp gauge never really got above the blue except when towing. test thermostat properly with a thermometer and see what temp it opens, get it sniff tested at a garage and ask if they have correct equipment to do it sits on the top of expansion tank with a fluid in it! these should be the first things you do minimum cost and will answer any doubts about head/head gasket pointless guessing and throwing money at it needlessly
 
I'm lucky enough to have thermal imaging kit for work, if you know a nice fireman he may be able to get hold of a thermal imaging camera, you can check thermal flow through the rad and the hoses, it may even pick up localised hotspots in the head. I had a similar issue on a landrover, it was the wrong rad cap - the stem was to short and it didn't seat, overheated when I parked when it wasn't being air-cooled !
 
A wee update...
took down the road, 4 miles, to workshop. Temp was reaching the red on arrival.
I'm assuming you'd have to take the fan out to change the stat, in which case it does'nt look like mines been disturbed, possibly just siliconed round in an attempt to hide the slight leak.
What i did notice however, was a leak coming from what looks like the front of the sump? and up slight dampness all the way up the seem between the block, and the casing which all the pullies are atached to. Sorry for lack of specific terminology.
So... A - could be this be part of the problem, and B - is this going to be a necessary / pricey fix? I suspect the answer, at least to the second question will be YES!
Anyway drove home again with the temp sitting nicely in the middle!
Tempted to sell on warts and all, and buy the 300 RR Classic i nearly did before i got this skip!
 
could be down to a leak dropping coolant level causing it to overheat, monitor levels before and after each journey.
i would suspect the silicone sealant you can see around stat housing is where an excess of sealer has been used when refitting the stat housing and it has squashed out around the seam.
fix the easy stuff first remove stat has it even got one in it cure the leak when refitting.
pressure test cooling system and find the leaks and fix them!
or if you feel that this is getting beyond the limits of your abilitys (no offense)
ebay it would imagine it would make more than £750 even in its current state
 
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