Yeah, all rusted parts I have coated with ACF-50 for now, so hopefully that will be alright and work, I just hope that I can get a lot of good years out of my landy, completely new to landys and it's my first vehicle, so I don't know too much about them haha, but the chassis seems fine, as does the bulkhead, but I will definitely pay most attention to them, the engine runs fine, just a bit smokey, but I'll have all that checked, passed the MOT with no advisory, and everything else seems in order, just want to try and take care of everything as soon as, but I don't know how long I would have to treat it if you know what I mean, before it gets to a state when I would just need to replace parts, which I don't really want to do, especially with chassis or bulkhead
 
So, just to clarify, summary of what to do;

1) Remove paint, with like 150grit sand paper
2) Treat all the rust
3) Prepare the surface with panel cleaner or white spirit
4) Prime with a acid etch primer, and regular anti corrosive primer
5) Top coat of NATO green

Use good quality rollers and brushes for main bits, tricky bits use rattle cans or smaller brushes

That about it? Anything else to take into consideration? This is just for the inside and outside, not the chassis
 
kmanderson62 said:
So, just to clarify, summary of what to do;

1) Remove paint, with like 150grit sand paper
2) Treat all the rust
3) Prepare the surface with panel cleaner or white spirit
4) Prime with a acid etch primer, and regular anti corrosive primer
5) Top coat of NATO green

Use good quality rollers and brushes for main bits, tricky bits use rattle cans or smaller brushes

That about it? Anything else to take into consideration? This is just for the inside and outside, not the chassis
Click to expand...

Doesn't sound too bad, personally I would wash off all the dust after sanding with a pressure washer.
Also, as Discomania said, its not worth using anti-corrosive primer, just use the etch primer.
No reason you cant do the chassis by the same method, using black paint, that is how I do my chassis, strip, prime, paint, and spray loads of Dinitrol inside, it should last very well.
 
kmanderson62 said:
So, just to clarify, summary of what to do;

1) Remove paint, with like 150grit sand paper
2) Treat all the rust
3) Prepare the surface with panel cleaner or white spirit
4) Prime with a acid etch primer, and regular anti corrosive primer
5) Top coat of NATO green

Use good quality rollers and brushes for main bits, tricky bits use rattle cans or smaller brushes

That about it? Anything else to take into consideration? This is just for the inside and outside, not the chassis
Click to expand...

Yeah that's good, couple of things, skip the second 'anti-corrosion' primer you don't really need it on top of the etch primer and you don't need the corrosion resistant paint on aluminium body panels. A solid paint layer will work. You may also find that the etch primer and anti corrosion primer react and won't adhere. Etch primer is quite a good primer, it's what I did with mine.

As for sanding if you are just keying the surface then a sanding block and paper will be fine, if sanding back the whole landrover then invest a bit of cash in a decent random orbital sander as it will make the job a lot easier.

In between the sanding and panel wipe stage just give the vehicle a wash and let it dry naturally then panel wipe it a couple days later, it will be dust free then.

For rusty small fixtures and fittings like tailgate catches etc just remove and submerge them in the phos acid overnight then prime and paint with hammerite or similar.

You don't need to worry about rust treating the bonnet etc as they are aluminium.

Where in the country are you?
 
flat said:
Yeah that's good, couple of things, skip the second 'anti-corrosion' primer you don't really need it on top of the etch primer and you don't need the corrosion resistant paint on aluminium body panels. A solid paint layer will work. You may also find that the etch primer and anti corrosion primer react and won't adhere. Etch primer is quite a good primer, it's what I did with mine.

As for sanding if you are just keying the surface then a sanding block and paper will be fine, if sanding back the whole landrover then invest a bit of cash in a decent random orbital sander as it will make the job a lot easier.

In between the sanding and panel wipe stage just give the vehicle a wash and let it dry naturally then panel wipe it a couple days later, it will be dust free then.

For rusty small fixtures and fittings like tailgate catches etc just remove and submerge them in the phos acid overnight then prime and paint with hammerite or similar.

You don't need to worry about rust treating the bonnet etc as they are aluminium.

Where in the country are you?
Click to expand...

Ah right, is it acid etch primer, or just etch primer I'm wanting? I'll invest in a DA Orbital sander, 150 grit sheets for it yeah? And as for the small fixtures like tailgate catches, no idea how to remove them if I'm being honest with you, same for things like the jerry can door handles and that, so could I just spray them down with phosp acid, or just sand them to bare metal then paint them with hammerite rust beater primer, then spray with a nato green rattle can?

I'm just outside Edinburgh mate
 
Oh boo was going to say if you down south I would come help.

It's just 2 different names for the same thing, go to an auto factors or halfords or somewhere and look/ask for a primer suitable for aluminium panels

Something like this
Halfords | U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer

As for the catches etc they will either be bolted on or rivetted on. Either undo the bolts or drill off the head of the rivets.

If you drill off the heads of any rivets you will need a pop rivet gun to put them back, they are cheap and easy to use.

I have a mod truck so anything go your not sure about taking off ask me and I can have a look at mine.

as for sanding discs get some 300 and some finer. You might find 150 a bit aggressive and will leave quite a scratched surface that you will need to sand out. Depends how tough and thick your paint is. I would start with 300 and see how you go you can always change to a coarser or finer grit as needed. Look to use a fine grit as the final sanding layer to get a good flat base for paint
 
Aw that would have been great :(

Ah right, don't really want to mess with them to be honest incase I break something or mess something up.

I uploaded this before in another thread, but these are the visibly rusty parts I was concerned about

defenderrust.jpg


So would this be okay? or does it need to specify self etching, and acid etch, it says in the description its fine for aluminium ACID ETCH PRIMER 1 Litre for use on Aluminium and other bare metals | eBay

Ah right, as for the paint a lot of it is chipping and peeling away, so I was just wanting to take the whole thing back to bare metal, what's with the whole "keying" thing, does that basically mean when I take it down to bare metal, rub it down with a green scotchbrite 3m or something?

Thanks man!
 
Kmanderson62 The majority of the rust looks like its on replaceable parts, like latches, chains and screw heads? the parts on the body looks like surface rust and should be okay when sanded down, but pictures may be deceiving!
 
Alright great, I would prefer to not replace though, think they can be treated? sanded down to bare metal, phosphoric acid treated, primed with hammerite, then painted?
 
kmanderson62 said:
Alright great, I would prefer to not replace though, think they can be treated? sanded down to bare metal, phosphoric acid treated, primed with hammerite, then painted?
Click to expand...

with work, of course, but the chains and screws then it's easier just to replace if you can? that's what I'd look to do anyway.
 
kmanderson62 said:
Alright great, I would prefer to not replace though, think they can be treated? sanded down to bare metal, phosphoric acid treated, primed with hammerite, then painted?
Click to expand...

your making it to complicated and time/money consuming and making a complete mission for yourself.

dont bother sanding the small components just soak them in phosphoric acid that will be fine, then paint. Those pictures are literally nothing to worry about, they look slightly untidy but will last for yonks and yonks like that, its only surface rust on non-vital components. It isnt bad either, you could just get a direct-to-rust paint and paint it straight on then normal paint over the top if you wish (for colour match) which will last well

as for the primer that will be fine, you dont need to etch steel work though, jsut use a anti-corrosion primer. you only need to etch aluminium or else the paint will just flake off - so use that primer on the aluminium body panels if you go through to the bare metal. Do NOT paint it onto existing paint as it will react and all will bubble and flake off. If the original paint is 'solid' just 'key' it then repaint as the paint you have now will act like a primer for new paint you want to put on. If the paint is flat and hard to remove then its sound, just key it and paint over.

by 'keying' i dont mean go down to bare metal i just mean rough up the existing surface with some sandpaper to provide a 'key' for the new paint to 'grip' on.

with mine i just keyed the surface and then rollered the new paint on. is still good a year later.
 
Ah right great thanks for the info, think I'm over worrying about this then, and the speed of which parts will basically corrode through? I know I have absolutely no corrosion, visable anyway, just a lot of whats seen in the photos, and really its just in the areas in the photos, just wanting to make sure the landy will not crumble to pieces in a few months ahaha! Again I might be over reacting :p New to all this
 
kmanderson62 said:
Alright great, I would prefer to not replace though, think they can be treated? sanded down to bare metal, phosphoric acid treated, primed with hammerite, then painted?
Click to expand...

They are certainly treatable. Just sand them down, clean off, prime and paint, should be ten to twenty years before the rust comes through.
It will help if you dismantle the latches etc first, it is pretty straightforward, all held together with bolts and pop rivets.
Here are some pics of a wheel I have been painting up, sorry I don't have any pics of the prep stages, but it was a rusty old wheel that had been knocking around the west country on my 90 for twenty five years.
Here it is with one side dried nicely

006_zpsfa1806b9.jpg


And here it is turned over ready for the second coat

008_zps7009866d.jpg


You can see that the two coats of primer have completely sealed it up, and will have killed any remaining corrosion. Here it is with the topcoat completed.

013_zps983da37b.jpg


I shall be surprised if it doesn't last the rest of my motoring life!
019_zps8b687dbc.jpg
 
Ah right, I was worried the rust would destroy those parts in a few months, I hope to have this landrover for the rest of my motoring life, I would be gutted if it was just eaten away by rust quite quickly from me buying her, glad I'm just over reacting and don't have it to worry about too much, but I'll defanitely take your advise, I'll try my best to dissasemble them and soak them in phosp acid then prime and paint, thanks a lot!
 
Turboman said:
Mostly just my own old stuff. 90, 30 yr old massey, trailers, spikes, topper.I used to work on forestry machine a lot, but not now.
Like I said, everyone seems to have their own pet potions and techniques with this, but this is what I do, and it seems to be working ok.
First I would hot wash the whole thing, hot as you like, it may strip old paint too. Then try and remove all rust with a wire brush in a grinder, production paper can be good in tight corners. Then hot wash again to remove dust etc.
Sure its old news to you, but conditions are pretty important, a dry sunny day with a light wind is optimal, but few and far between here! And it really helps if its warm.
When its thoroughly dry I give it an all over coat with the corroless, leave for twenty four hours or until thoroughly dry, and same again. When the second coat is thoroughly dry I apply the topcoat, and again after forty eight hours if time allows for it.
I just use a brush, and paint unthinned but stirred, but those who equipped and skilled for spraying would probably get a similar or better result with that.
Click to expand...


Well, thanks, I'll see how it looks when its all done.
 
discomania said:
Well, thanks, I'll see how it looks when its all done.
Click to expand...

Best of luck with it, a lot of people think I am silly painting the farm kit, but it it does last a lot longer in the salt air.

One thing I forgot, I don't have any good suggestions, but watch out for insects. Swarms of small flies seem to have a fatal attraction for fresh paint round here, and they can ruin the finish.
 
Today I just attempted to remove some of the paint, and realized what a ball ache it actually is! Sanding is fine for the feeling parts and bubbly parts, but the rest took me ages for a tiny patch, can I just key it and use the etch primer, or will the etch primer react with the existing paint?
 
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