Hi @discomania

another exciting day fishing out what I need - i finally found the sandpaper of the right GRIT so that's on its own it's an achievement.

With respect to the primer is not as easy :) I found some but no one is an Etch-primer as you reccomend....

which one do you think is best?

I also found another PU sealant from Everbuild Technique - Puraflex 25: http://www.everbuild-tecnic.co.uk/product/puraflex-25/

is this one better (Uk made) than the one I found last week (thailand made): http://new.adb.co.th/index.php/en/products/sealant/item/43-adb-pu-sealant/43-adb-pu-sealant or there is no difference (the thai one is cheaper)

Can't wait to start with this!

Simone
 
vasimone said:
Hi @discomania

another exciting day fishing out what I need - i finally found the sandpaper of the right GRIT so that's on its own it's an achievement.

With respect to the primer is not as easy :) I found some but no one is an Etch-primer as you reccomend....

which one do you think is best?

I also found another PU sealant from Everbuild Technique - Puraflex 25: http://www.everbuild-tecnic.co.uk/product/puraflex-25/

is this one better (Uk made) than the one I found last week (thailand made): http://new.adb.co.th/index.php/en/products/sealant/item/43-adb-pu-sealant/43-adb-pu-sealant or there is no difference (the thai one is cheaper)

Can't wait to start with this!

Simone
Click to expand...

Hi Simone,

I am not sure about the primers you posted as I have not heard of them myself, but the Sikkens looks to be the one I would use.

The Puraflex stuff is good, I have a tube here - it says Marine use and stuff

Good luck.
 
Great @discomania

I went again to Sikkens and it turns out that they have the following two primers (attached more details):

1) Washprimer: A one component chrome-free, self-etching washprimer that offers excellent corrosion resistance without the use of metal preps and conditioners. Washprimer 1K CF, for use in the car refinishes industry, can be used for priming steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Provides excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance of the paint systems subsequently applied.

2) Auto Surfacer: Autosurfacer HB is a fast drying two-pack high build primer-surfacer for car refinishing systems. Developed for panel and spot repairs where extreme high film build is required. Autosurfacer HB is only available as a sanding surfacer.

Which one do you think is the best one if on top of it I'll apply the Gravitex?

Thanks so much,
Simone
 

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vasimone said:
Great @discomania

I went again to Sikkens and it turns out that they have the following two primers (attached more details):

1) Washprimer: A one component chrome-free, self-etching washprimer that offers excellent corrosion resistance without the use of metal preps and conditioners. Washprimer 1K CF, for use in the car refinishes industry, can be used for priming steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Provides excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance of the paint systems subsequently applied.

2) Auto Surfacer: Autosurfacer HB is a fast drying two-pack high build primer-surfacer for car refinishing systems. Developed for panel and spot repairs where extreme high film build is required. Autosurfacer HB is only available as a sanding surfacer.

Which one do you think is the best one if on top of it I'll apply the Gravitex?

Thanks so much,
Simone
Click to expand...

Get the Washprimer. It will be generally easier for you to use too. Make sure to scuff up the tank well do it can etch into the metal.
 
Great, got myself the washprimer at Sikkens - wanted to take the 2k paint but the guy at the counter said that it won't flex with the chassis creating cracks in the paint that will allow corrosion - @discomania is that the case, and if so should i settle for a normal 1k epoxy paint? i can sort this out tomorrow
 
Hi @discomania,

My expedition to find epoxy paint led to some success (TDS attached):

BASF MasterEmaco® 8100 AP: Single component epoxy based zinc rich primer for steel
Berger ZINCANODE 600: A two pack epoxy zinc rich primer.

Else I am going back to Europe on vacation next week and I can buy this award winning award winning chassis coating epoxy paint: http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/

what re your thoughts on these 3? which one would be best for my intended purpose?

thanks a bunch!
 

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Hi @discomania you can't believe but I haven't yet been able to sort this out - but hopefully I am getting there.

In my researches in Ghana, I found a zinch-rich paint called zinga, and I think it'd be perfect for the tank.

So plan is now to:

1) sand-blast
2) apply zinga
3) apply gravitex

quick question for you:

I found one company that does sand-blasting for building industrial sites - they use a compressor at 10 bar and sand that they retrieve from a nearby river.
My diesel tank it's mild steel, 1mm or 2mm thick - would the compressor at 10 bar be fine or will it warp it?
Is it safe to use the river sand after it has been dried and filtered to remove big chunks ?

Thanks a lot,

I will document the whole thing once I get to do it!

Simone
 
vasimone said:
Hi @discomania you can't believe but I haven't yet been able to sort this out - but hopefully I am getting there.

In my researches in Ghana, I found a zinch-rich paint called zinga, and I think it'd be perfect for the tank.

So plan is now to:

1) sand-blast
2) apply zinga
3) apply gravitex

quick question for you:

I found one company that does sand-blasting for building industrial sites - they use a compressor at 10 bar and sand that they retrieve from a nearby river.
My diesel tank it's mild steel, 1mm or 2mm thick - would the compressor at 10 bar be fine or will it warp it?
Is it safe to use the river sand after it has been dried and filtered to remove big chunks ?

Thanks a lot,

I will document the whole thing once I get to do it!

Simone
Click to expand...

I think this is going too far just to get it sanded, a scuff up with some sand paper is all that is needed, but if you want to get it blasted then all good, it will certainly give you a perfect surface to paint onto.

The media (sand) will be fine, check that they check a small area first because the tank may distort as it is not very heavy steel at all.

I would seal the tank to minimise sand ingress, then insure all sand that does get in is removed.
 
It will buckle if held in one area for too long, a good operator will know what to do to avoid that.
If he doesn't know what he's doing he could wreak it.
 
Great feedback thanks guys - here in Ghana people normally don't know much what they are doing - the compresson available is a 10bar one - too much for the 2mm thick tank I have?
 
2 years down the line and the only progress made has been to paint the new tank with Raptor - jeez! I haven't been to Ghana lately because of work commitments but in my last visit I wanted to perform the change but guess what?? something is wrong
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The fuel tank I bought is unfortunately not the same as the one originally fitted - the original one has a hole at the top (number 4), for the fuel return line pipe, which the tank I bought and got shipped to ghana does NOT have (@#%$). The other holes (1,2,3 & 5) are also in my new one. So the big question is: is there a mod kit that will allow me to use the existing hole of the new tank (guess hole 5 or 3) to replace hole 4? In hole 5 at the moment there is the fuel sender as per picture - so may be there is a kit that does the functions of sender and fuel return line pipe or I can do something with hole 3? I really do not want to cut out the center piece to create hole 4...

the tank with hole 4 is for the petrol engine (it originally fitted a v3.5L v8) - the 200TDI tank doesn't have that hole. Since it now fits that engine I would have thought that I won't need to keep using hole 4 but adapt my set-up to fit the diesel one using either hole 5 or hole 3 - any hope?

Thanks so much!!!
 

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ok got the answers I needed by looking online here and there - seems best for me to change the fuel hose going from tank to engine and return to fuel tank since the original one wouldn't be long enough as it'd source the diesel from hole #5 rather than #4 - found this one close to home (link) - 8mm internal diameter, 15mm extenal diameter, max pressure 10 bar - sounds good? otherwise what specs should i look for? cheers
 
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