discomania

Well-Known Member
Hello, has anyone successfully found the above?

I cut out some x-member rust as inspection holes and the chassis is solid with the dinitrol having done it's job perfectly, just not good enough to protect a x-member in the exposed to wheelspray position. I really do just need and want the crossmember, no point cutting out perfectly good genuine LR chassis to weld in replacement when I have already exposed the chassis rails and they are solid.

So, I know what I can get, but I cannot seem to find a rear crossmember, galvanised with no TD5 hole and without extension. I've emailed and phoned a few places so far, looked all over.

The best I can come up with is AN2056 but depends where you look depends what they actually give you!
 
You can get a bare metal one from RCP Southam- speak to Ian 01926 614484, they are on Facebook as well.
 
You can get a bare metal one from RCP Southam- speak to Ian 01926 614484, they are on Facebook as well.
Thank you for the info, getting a bare one is also not too much of an issue, and as you say they do an option, however just looking to see if someone offers exactly what I want out the box first.

Issue with galv is I then wait ages to save up a big enough load to make it worthwhile!
 
I could, but I cannot be bothered with stripping the paint back.

I've spoken to some people who might be able to get me a pre-paint one.

you could probably get the galv company to dip it to remove paint for you?
 
The beauty of one with extensions is you get to do the welding in one of the few places to rot ie high up, doing it your way means you will damage the galve at the lowest point of the chassis.
 
The galvanizing place (Highland Galvanizers) I took all my various bits to when I rebuilt my Defender stripped and de-rusted everything as part of the galvanizing service - I wish I'd galvanized everything now!
 
The beauty of one with extensions is you get to do the welding in one of the few places to rot ie high up, doing it your way means you will damage the galve at the lowest point of the chassis.
Agreed, but if you saw the chassis rails you would be saddened if you had to cut them off.

If I am really honest with myself my rear crossmember was salvageable. The rot was low down at the end of the rails, I just quickly came to the conclusion that I will be doing far less welding with known good steel just welding on a new x-member. This option will cost me £120 but might take 2 hours all in to fit. I could have fixed it with metal in the garage for essentially free with already bought materials like MIG wire and gas and steel offcuts but I would be out there making bits up, welding little pieces in, burning my fingers with long upside down welds etc. and faffing about for probably about 5 hours to do it the way I would want it done and I will still not have stopped all the rust in it's tracks just bought me another year or two.
 
Agreed, but if you saw the chassis rails you would be saddened if you had to cut them off.

If I am really honest with myself my rear crossmember was salvageable. The rot was low down at the end of the rails, I just quickly came to the conclusion that I will be doing far less welding with known good steel just welding on a new x-member. This option will cost me £120 but might take 2 hours all in to fit. I could have fixed it with metal in the garage for essentially free with already bought materials like MIG wire and gas and steel offcuts but I would be out there making bits up, welding little pieces in, burning my fingers with long upside down welds etc. and faffing about for probably about 5 hours to do it the way I would want it done and I will still not have stopped all the rust in it's tracks just bought me another year or two.

Mine was getting thin, and I had to weld a couple of patches in, then a year or two later I used the hilift in the x member lifing hole and the x member bent!
 

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