Hard-Drive

Hard-Drive

Active Member
I have a hideous noise coming from the front of my 110. Partly graunching/squeaking, partly tinkle-tinkle-tinkle. It's worst under power at low speeds or on a trailing throttle...it does not seem too bad at speed at a steady throttle. I'm hoping it's front prop UJ's as it sounds horrific!

I've had a poke around underneath and the diff end UJ is bone dry (because there's never been a grease nipple on it!) and there is some movement so I'm guessing (and hoping) that's the culprit. When I did my rear UJs last year I had a few issues getting the correct parts...in essence the width of the UJ (measuring from flat face of one cup to the opposite side) was narrower on the supplied UJ than the one it was replacing. This may have been because my truck is 1986, a pre-Defender 110. It's also ex-RAF, although very much civvy spec (12 volt, 12 seater) I wonder if I'm going to have the same issue on the front.

Before I take it all apart does anyone happen to know the correct part number for the front prop UJs of this age? And is there any reason why I can't fit one with a grease nipple?
 
Hi
Had this problem few weeks ago.
Check prop for part number
FRC 5566 this is for a 2.25/2.5

Found easier to get the above prop as a spare.
 
Hard-Drive said:
Before I take it all apart does anyone happen to know the correct part number for the front prop UJs of this age? And is there any reason why I can't fit one with a grease nipple?
Click to expand...

There is no reason you cannot fit one with a grease niple as long as you can find a correctly sized UJ which has one.

My 110 is a little later than ours at '89 but RTC3291 is the correct UJ for mine. I use the GKN ones from paddocks (link) The paddocks description gives the dimensions so you should be bale to measure your current one to check it is the correct emplacement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
That's really helpful, thanks guys. I'll whip the existing prop off and run it up the road in diff lock and make sure that the propshaft is my issue. If it is, I'll then check the splines and decide whether to replace the UJs or the whole prop.

Thanks again...great info.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
I'm sure that anything pre 300Tdi (LT77 stubby gearbox) will all have the same front prop due to the position of the transferbox in relation to the front and rear axles. Later R380 gearboxes put the transfer box 2 or 3 inches closer to the front and therefor the from prop is shorter and the rear prop is longer, and why the seat box and tunnel is different.

But change the UJ as said already. Cheap and fairly easy to do.
 
Thanks again guys...took the prop off and it's fairly FUBAR'd. The end that never had a grease nipple (as in no hole, one had never been fitted) was dry and knackered. The top end was greasy and knackered, and the splines seized up! TBH I'm quite surprised, I am pretty good with keeping things greased and oiled, and it does very little mileage (perhaps that's the issue...)

Anyway I ran it up the road in 2WD with diff lock in and all the hideous noises had gone. I'll just order a whole new prop...job done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Hard-Drive said:
Thanks again guys...took the prop off and it's fairly FUBAR'd. The end that never had a grease nipple (as in no hole, one had never been fitted) was dry and knackered. The top end was greasy and knackered, and the splines seized up! TBH I'm quite surprised, I am pretty good with keeping things greased and oiled, and it does very little mileage (perhaps that's the issue...)

Anyway I ran it up the road in 2WD with diff lock in and all the hideous noises had gone. I'll just order a whole new prop...job done.
Click to expand...
If the splines are seized up it may be worth freeing them up with a couple of clouts from a soft mallet and replacing the UJ's. Usually the splines wear and become loose. If you have the opposite problem with prop is probably still good. I have found new props do not last as well as the original so if you can refurb that would get my vote.
Also the reason for seizing is likely to be the lack of use you mention. Greasing the slider just puts grease into the gap at the end. It is then running the vehicle which distributes the grease along the slider as the length changes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
If you are unsure what UJ to buy, measure the width of the old UJ - might be 75mm which is the older, smaller UJ. Island 4x4 sell the GKN heavy duty versions, with the rubber and metal dust caps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Cheers guys. I'm just so short of time at the moment the appeal of 10 minutes with an air wrench, torque wrench and grease gun and being back on the road really appeals. When I did the rear it was a right nightmare with at least 2 incorrect UJ types being supplied and an easy job turned into a right saga lasting a week or more. But agreed...I will rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare.

Interestingly I could not see a part number anywhere on my old prop...so I don't know if that means it's actually genuine or not?
 
Half the trouble with any old landy is you will not know what other owners have fitted in the past.And it is an extra problem that parts from different model years can often be used.
 
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the short end with the exposed steel lives down at the diff end?

31551350678_417020f256_c.jpg
 
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the
 
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the short end with the exposed steel lives down at the diff end?

31551350678_417020f256_c.jpg
 
Hard-Drive said:
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the short end with the exposed steel lives down at the diff end?

31551350678_417020f256_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Both of mine are fitted the other way around. The short sliding part of the shaft is fitted to the transfer box and the long tube is fitted to the diff. I do not know if this is correct but this is how it has always been.
 
Hard-Drive said:
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the short end with the exposed steel lives down at the diff end?

31551350678_417020f256_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Both of mine are fitted the other way around. The short sliding part of the shaft is fitted to the transfer box and the long tube is fitted to the diff. I do not know if this is correct but this is how it has always been.

Also as long as the props are the same length there is no reason it will not work even though it is a slightly different design.
 
Hard-Drive said:
The new prop has arrived but it does look to be different to the old one. The new one has the right part number on it (FRC5566) and was described as a front prop for an 83-94 110. My truck is a bitsa with a 200Tdi in it plus a Disco 2 transfer box...can I just check there's no reason why that new prop can't be fitted?

Also I assume the "long" painted end goes onto the t/box and the short end with the exposed steel lives down at the diff end?

31551350678_417020f256_c.jpg
Click to expand...
Both of mine are fitted the other way around. The short sliding part of the shaft is fitted to the transfer box and the long tube is fitted to the diff. I do not know if this is correct but this is how it has always been.

Also as long as the props are the same length there is no reason it will not work even though it is a slightly different design.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JoeCoutz
Defender TD5 90 - Play in front Prop Shaft - DON'T WANT TO DRIVE!
Replies
6
Views
1K
lynall
L
G
Front Hub Grease
Replies
5
Views
682
Graham Prentice
G
Gunter Butfuster
LT230 front output flanges - different sizes
Replies
2
Views
343
Gunter Butfuster
Gunter Butfuster
P
Is it always like this ?
Replies
7
Views
331
Kev12
Kev12
O
Axle breather & oil query
Replies
6
Views
920
miktdish
miktdish