Look for egr, de-cat, intercooler, turbo hoses, injector tune .........
Do you realise how often people come and ask the same thing? I guess it'd take less than the time from your first post to this appearing to find enough articles on here to make yours as fast and powerful as any other .. without going to exotic stuff.
Do you realise how often people come and ask the same thing? I guess it'd take less than the time from your first post to this appearing to find enough articles on here to make yours as fast and powerful as any other .. without going to exotic stuff.
More power from a diesel means you need more fuel to be burned.
This needs more air to be breathed in.
That needs a bigger engine or more turbo pressure or "fine tuning" or more revs, or all four.
You don't want a bigger engine or more revs, so the options are limited.
Do whatever it takes to ram in more air and cooler air, and match the fuel delivery accordingly.
That's about it really. Nothing to it.
CharlesY
This needs more air to be breathed in.
That needs a bigger engine or more turbo pressure or "fine tuning" or more revs, or all four.
You don't want a bigger engine or more revs, so the options are limited.
Do whatever it takes to ram in more air and cooler air, and match the fuel delivery accordingly.
That's about it really. Nothing to it.
CharlesY
battenberg
Well-Known Member
take the fan off, that's easy and free.
I took the fan off my Disco yesterday but I think my top speed has dropped due to the reduced propeller effect at the front. The fan pulling the air back creates a partial vacuum at the front of the car which actually sucks it forwards. Has anyone else noticed this?
CharlesY
TheVengefulElephant
Well-Known Member
hee hee
good old uncle CharlesY
good old uncle CharlesY
Dorset VogueSE
Well-Known Member
I found that without the fan the top speed was about the same.
I put this down to the extra 'jet thrust' effect from the tail pipe from the power released by not driving the propellor at the front :doh: :crazy: :wtf::hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Hello there Charles, you really are on form today - I nearly fell off my chair at this one.
Well done !!!!!!
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Hiya Nati, I'm assumng that what you mean is you want your Disco to "go" better?? Bare in mind it'll always be 2100kgs with lower power, but it can be improved.
With a few cheap mods the EDC-equipped autos can actually be made to go a lot better than as std. the following is a list of stuff I've done to mine with prices and benefits. This list assumes that your vehicle is currently up to date service-wise, with a new airfilter installed?
1. The biggest single improvement I made to mine was removing the cat-equipped exhaust downpipe and replacing it with either a Defender one ESR 2297 from Paddocks at £21.25+vat, or a Disco one with the flexy section at £60+vat.
If I was doing mine again I would go for the more expensive one with the flexy section as I find with the Defender 'solid one' there is a slight increase vibration.
Benefits - significant and imediately noticeable, the car takes off much more positively, turbo winds up a lot quicker and improved mpg.
2. Block off or remove completely the EGR valve. To remove completely you need a De-EGR kit from Ebay - about £20
Benefits - cleaner running engine, better at climbing hills and at low revs and slight improvement in MPG.
3. Wash out the intercooler - cost £0 - benefits slight improvement in response.
4. Replace all oils with fully synthetic stuff - ie axles, gearboxes and engine - cost about £150,
Benefits - smoother, quieter and easier runner, less drag. Longer service intervals.
5. Replace all filters regularly - about £6.28+vat from Paddocks for a kit of all 3.
Benefits - personal satisfaction at knowing that you are looking after your motor properly.
6. Silicon intercooler hoses - cost £49.50+vat Paddocks.
Benefits, (not done this yet on mine although it's on the list) more stable pressure of turbo effect, improvement in crispness - CLAIMED !!
There's a few things to get your teeth into,
Good luck
Dave
Hey, that lot sounds like a lot of effort to me.
Why don't you just fit a V8 Hummer Diesel? About 6.3 litres ... plenty of poke.
It's only one simple job instead of that great list. I mean, one out and one in. How difficult could that be?
I sat in a 110 Landy with a Hummer engine once. Really nice exhaust note, but the guy was driving VERY VERY gently, and the gerabox was sounding sort of loose. He wouldn't let us drive it, and we were there thinking about buying it! He expected us to buy it, pay the loot, and THEN drive it away. Aye, Right!
Can I ask a question?
If you want road performance, why did you buy a two and a half ton Disco?
CharlesY
Why don't you just fit a V8 Hummer Diesel? About 6.3 litres ... plenty of poke.
It's only one simple job instead of that great list. I mean, one out and one in. How difficult could that be?
I sat in a 110 Landy with a Hummer engine once. Really nice exhaust note, but the guy was driving VERY VERY gently, and the gerabox was sounding sort of loose. He wouldn't let us drive it, and we were there thinking about buying it! He expected us to buy it, pay the loot, and THEN drive it away. Aye, Right!
Can I ask a question?
If you want road performance, why did you buy a two and a half ton Disco?
CharlesY
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
The pump on a 200/300 tdi can be adjusted to give 25 BHP extra . This is particularly valuable with autos as it takes that dangerous lag away when pulling away at junctions.
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)
Stage 2
remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)
Stage 2
remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
IF that question was aimed at me Charles, I don't search for 'road performance' but I do like things to work efficently and to their optimum.
I understand pretty well that 2100kgs and 122bhp equates to about 60bhp per ton, but did you know how much bhp there is, at the wheels, of an average Tdi 300 Disco, after the power has gone through that convoluted powertrain?
ABOUT 68bhp, that's how much !!!
So, from a starting point of about 122 at the crank, an average EDC Disco loses HALF of it's power, on it's journey to the tyres !!!!
So, to answer your question more fully, if I was looking at something to give me on-road performance, it would need to weigh less than 1000kgs and have more than 250bhp and be two wheel drive.
So as I said at the beginning, it optimisation I'm after, not ultimate performance. 'Cos I like to go off-roading as well, like this weekend in the Corrèze.
I hear you loud and clear!
One day I am going to throw a tablespoonful of Molybdenum disulphide powder (I have lots of the finest grade) into my diffs, transfer box and gearbox!
Moly slashes friction ... must try it, and as you point out, reducing trhe friction losses would be a far smarter way to make gains in Road Performance compared to blasting in more fuel to make more power.
Going to do it .... diffs first ... watch this space soon ....
CharlesY
One day I am going to throw a tablespoonful of Molybdenum disulphide powder (I have lots of the finest grade) into my diffs, transfer box and gearbox!
Moly slashes friction ... must try it, and as you point out, reducing trhe friction losses would be a far smarter way to make gains in Road Performance compared to blasting in more fuel to make more power.
Going to do it .... diffs first ... watch this space soon ....
CharlesY
