Yesterday i went to the battery store to get a new sønnak/exide battery.I asked them to check my battery . I got the message that the battery was good,but it need a weekend with charging.Today i put it on charging for ten hours.When i was out driving today everything was ok.The battery is back on charge to it is fully charged.Does anybody know how many volts the alternator should give? Is it easy to change the regulator in the alternator? It is so nice to have some "experts" to ask.Thanks to you all !
 
Yesterday i went to the battery store to get a new sønnak/exide battery.I asked them to check my battery . I got the message that the battery was good,but it need a weekend with charging.Today i put it on charging for ten hours.When i was out driving today everything was ok.The battery is back on charge to it is fully charged.Does anybody know how many volts the alternator should give? Is it easy to change the regulator in the alternator? It is so nice to have some "experts" to ask.Thanks to you all !
great think weve solved this one then:),think its 14.4 but check with saint v8 hell give exact figures,alternater is costly and a bit naughty to access and remove
 
great think weve solved this one then:),think its 14.4 but check with saint v8 hell give exact figures,alternater is costly and a bit naughty to access and remove

Different alternators can give out slightly different voltages. There should be a plate or label on it, whether you can see this without removing the unit is another matter, but you need 14volt+ to charge the battery.

These cars were known to struggle a little on the standard size batteries so add in your temperatures and I'd say that this area is well worth investigating. Low or 'dirty' outputs from alternators/batteries can cause ECU problems.
 
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great think weve solved this one then:),think its 14.4 but check with saint v8 hell give exact figures,alternater is costly and a bit naughty to access and remove
The general consensus is around 14.2V.....

There is a hidden menu on the L322 that can bring up a system read voltage at the battery, but I have concern on its accuracy as I have seen mine and it reads 13.8V most of the time, momentarily dipping to 13.2V when i switch something on and then going back to 13.8V once the Alternator regulator picks up the slack....so the reading could be off by around 15% or so!!

I will run my engine later and measure across the battery terminals as getting to the Alternator is a pain! But I am sure Alternator output directly is around the 14.2V mark, with volt drop to the battery which is why the reading is lower than Alternator Output.

Hidden Menu Procedure:

Ignition key must be “off”.
• Press and hold the Check Control button in the instrument cluster (RIGHT button), and turn the ignition key to the first position (KLR).


  • You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
  • Push the left button on the instrument cluster to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 digits (not 6) together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. Example: A123457 will lead to 2+3+4+5+7 = 21
  • Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"
  • Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above
  • Push right button again
1. Display Car's identification number, HW/SW version, construction date
2. instrument cluster self test. Will light up all lights and run all guages
3. Current consumption (liters/hour)
4. Average consumption (liters/100 km)
5. Current range
6. Remaining fuel in tank. Three sets of numbers: A/B/C. C=total amount.
7. Engine RPM / Coolant Temp (C)
8. Current Speed (kph)
9. System voltage at Term. "R" (Battery Voltage)
10. Country/Language (UK, US, Spa, Ger, Jap, etc.)
11. Units am/pm
12. Average Speed
13. ETA
14. Date of Software Mask
15. Production Diagnosis
16. ""
17. Display Vehicle Specific Data
18. Alarm Changeover (cont. vs. intermittent OBC chime)
19. Lock/Unlock
20. Correction factor for fuel consumption (nicht ändern!)
21. Reset all defect codes
 
Alternator voltage should be 14.2 volts minimum, up to 14.8 is OK if you have a low maintenance battery which is the norm.
 
I have still no "hdcinactive" But the two last days when i turn the ignition key in position r.the preheating starts ok,but in the start position the motor won`t start.Some time the key would not go in the last position. What could it be?
 
I have still no "hdcinactive" But the two last days when i turn the ignition key in position r.the preheating starts ok,but in the start position the motor won`t start.Some time the key would not go in the last position. What could it be?

Hooky ignition switch ?
 
Yippi today ingition lock is ok,but i got "hdc inactive" back 1-1 :) But it is all about battery and charging.My alternator gives 14,05 v. The optimal should be 14,4. I found a uk seller that takes only £ 185 for a new one,but he is not sure about the voltage,so i wait for an answer.
 
Check that the ignition switch is passing the full voltage, when the switch fails it can drop the output voltage to 9 volts.
 
Would it really make a difference with that voltage

I think there never totally spot on

14.05 volts should be OK unless it is used for a lot of short runs, however if the voltage should be 14.4, the low voltage could be an indication of a problem with the alternator such as a diode failing. It would need a scope to see if the output is ragged.:)
 
Hip hip hooray!! My power steering has been very kind to me for two weeks now.The left xenon too.
Maybe it is an early xmas gift.So i gave "her" a b service cost £850.
 
Did you think that Norway was a low cost??? For my 2004 td6 with 176000 km. i paid in sept. £33000. I think you can get a nice landy for that in the uk.
 

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