J

jeff

New Member
I have a disco 1 , which the power steering box is leaking badly (from the nut with the hex key in the centre of the stud)

i have ordered a seal kit for it , and removed the top cover , the stud in the centre with the hex key where it was leaking from is very loose as if it isn't attached to anything?

also can the seals be replaced with the pump still atached to car or will it need to be removed , and how do you remove the other parts,
as so far i only have the top cover removed ,

thanks

any help much appreciated
 
Easier to do on a bench as I have done that job before and it can be a pain Do a serch and you will find all answers to the job
 
if you were only resealing nut i would have fitted new nut with fresh seal attached ,6mm allen screw adjusts sector shaft downwards into worm /input shaft to alter freeplay inbox ,which must only be done with box in center position with exactly equa; turns both locks,it is loose as it pushes and has to rotate in top of sector shaft if the rest isnt leaking leave it ,otherwise more setting may be required ,whereas at the moment you only have to refit and adjust screw while rocking input by hand until all back lash has gone then holding while 19mm spanner size nut tightened,i can tell you how to overhaul it but would take as bit longer
 
I think i understand now. so the nut that screws on the stud with allen screw , has a seal inside the nut? , so all i need to do is put top cover back on with new nut/seal and adjust etc,
i will give that a try ,

thanks for help
 
hmmm.. I am probably going to stick my neck out her and say, You probably will need to get another box! Re sealing the kit does not always work that great. Mine lasted 6 months.. Its a pain in the backside job to remove steering box to have to re do it again. But that is just my opinion!

MudRat
 
thats because you were resealing bottom of sector shaft with either groove/pitting in it ,hes doing top,resealing a good sector shaft will last years
 
ooh.. Ok. I bow to that greater knowledge.. Yes I was doing the bottom shaft and it did not last. I think the rust on the box was too far gone.
 
have now replaced the nut/seal and have cured the leak , but i have alot of play in the steering wheel , (like half a turn before it will turn wheels) also left hand lock is fine , but i don't have much right hand turn lock,

i have tried adjusting the 6mm allen srew , but it spins round but doesn't seem to adjust anything , so the only way i can get the it to seal was to wind the 6mm allen srew out until i could get the lock nut/seal done up tight ,

any ideas , or is it time for a new steering box ,
 
did you pull sector shaft up when working on it,because you could have pulled it out of rack and fitted back in wrong tooth, have threads in cap or on screw got stripped as it should wind in pushing shaft into mesh to reduce freeplay in central position of box as thats the tightest part either side freeplay gets greater to each lock , iwould have new cap if its that, screw sholud have about 2-3 threads showing above tight nut when done
 
i see now , so the cap has the thread in it? , as i have never worked on a steering box before ,( i have just bought this car and it was sold as having no steering)
when i removed cap i just undone 4 bolts and pulled cap of by hand,
so i take it the thread is stripped as otherwise i wouldn't have been to pull it off by hand,


what is the correct way to remove the cap?

also just had a look at my range rover to compare, as it has the same steering box , and adjusted it and has sorted the bad steering out:)

so i will have ago at finding a new cap or rethreading the old one ,

thanks again
 
Hi folks hope you dont mind me jumping in but i've got a similar problem to you Jeff. my box was leaking bad from that same adjuster nut on top(hex thing is wound right down,is that normal?). temptation got the better of me and i tightend the nut a bit and leak stoped. was that wise? cause it started leaking from the top plate down.too many tools and two days later the box is resting against my front wall with the top plate loose but not off due to still being attached to the drop arm. is there any instant gaskit type stuff i can use to stop that leak? and are there any special tools needed to replace the seals cause i dont ever want to take this off again and i might of f*#*# them up along the way any advice much appreiciated
 
Mine appears to only be leaking from around the top adjustment screw only. I simply loosened off the lock nut a few turns, cleaned around it, and applied liquid thread sealant (the same product the plumbers use in lieu of thread tape). Tightened the nut back up (ensuring that the screw position does not change) and its worked fine for me so far. Product name is Loxeal (its anerobic fix so only goes off when no oxygen). Comes in a small squeeze tube. Last for years. Its suitable for water, LPG, gases etc and as best as I can tell, it works fine with other hydrocarbons such as oils etc. I use it everywhere where liquid tight screw threads exist on my 300tdi.
 
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