Well i have too say that is awesome, you two boys @Nodge68 & @mick 1986 know your stuff and even with my little knowledge followed that. Thanks so much guys

so 40 Watts for COB
3w per emitter do some Maths and then that gives me the AMPS drawn for emitters

what about the COB ( whatever that means guess it is the bit on each end) how many Amps for that or do i just add the 40w to the emitters when i do the MAths.
 
Well i have too say that is awesome, you two boys @Nodge68 & @mick 1986 know your stuff and even with my little knowledge followed that. Thanks so much guys

so 40 Watts for COB
3w per emitter do some Maths and then that gives me the AMPS drawn for emitters

what about the COB ( whatever that means guess it is the bit on each end) how many Amps for that or do i just add the 40w to the emitters when i do the MAths.

Just add the 40W on to the normal emitters. So if the light has 30LED emitters, that’s 30 x 3W = 90W, + 40W for the COBs (yes it’s the bits at the ends), giving 130W. Take the 130W and divide by 12V, gives 10.83A. I know these figures aren’t what you have, but if you substitute your number of LEDs, it will work out the current draw for your light.
 
phone call and now my work planned for the day is cancelled.

Yippee off to workshop to fix landy...

but no work means no dosh...
 
the COB ( whatever that means

COB means Chip On Board, which is a manufacturing process used for a type of LED emitter. The COB produces a high dispersion light output, which isn't focused. Their use in LED bar is questionable IMO, as the light doesn't go were its needed, but those plucky Chinese like to put them in newer LED bars for some reason.

I've some older LED bars, and there's not a COB in sight.

The actual emitters used in bars has changed over the years too, most now use what the Chinese call 'beads' which are just generic 3 Watt LEDs, the main thing is they're cheap. They're not particularly good at being focused, so tend to throw light forward in a rather uncontrolled manner.
Another common emitter used in Chinese bars is the COB, which although brighter than the bead LEDs, it's even less focused, so although more light is produced, where the light goes is rather random.
Both these bar light sources are still miles brighter than conventional headlamps, but they're not optimal for longer range lighting, close up they're fine.

My light bars use CREE XB-D emitters, which have the advantage of being smaller and brighter than the current normal bar emitters.
My light bar is only 24" long, containing 42 X 3 W CREE XB-D emitters, but it'll cast usable light for over ½ a mile, which is pretty impressive for it's size and power.

The bead or COB emitters don't do this, giving lots of light within the first 100 yards or so of the bar.

But if budget is limited, you can only use what you can get.

Here's a quick example of the emitters used in budget light bars.

This is the CREE X Lamp XB-D. It's small at 2.45 mm X 2.45mm, rated at 3 Watts and is able to produce 107 lumens per Watt. Being small, it works pretty well with a reflector, as it has a tight focal point.
20210317_072002.jpg

This is a typical Chinese LED bead. These are rated at 1 or 3 Watts (LED bars use normally use the 3W type), produce around 45 lumens per Watt, but being larger (about 5mm), don't work so well as the XB-D with a reflector, as the focal point is larger.
20210317_071939.jpg


This is COB bead. They come in a variety of powers, from ½ a Watt up to 10s of Watts, however the higher the wattage, the larger they get. A budget light bar will use a 3 Watt COB, typically being 5mm X 5mm when using a reflector, or 6 mm X 4mm without a reflector.
These COBs produce about 40 lumens per Watt, but aren't really suitable for use with a reflector, as they have no true focal point. Instead they just throw light forward, in a rather uncontrolled manner.
20210317_071921.jpg
 
So re teh lightbar, had a count up i have 99 LEd plus 2 x COB so that works out according to the formula above quite a large draw.

So borrowed a cable meter and a sparkie to use it.

Hi meter shows a reading of 6.51 amps.

so going with that.

On other subjects lift pump changed diesel added to tank and it is still p[laying up.

Going to run a new supply pipe tank to lift pump and mis out the changeover switch for the twin tanks to try and cure it.

Also the rear shocks are loose and moving around so new ones ordered, hopefully mounts in axle are ok.

Finally it has sprung a leak on the engine...FFS
Got coolant running out

think it is either water pump or P gasket, ordered both,

Only good news Diesel Bob has finished the FIP and the injectors for the 110 so could be project landrover at weekend.

Would certainly be best to do it all in one go..
IMG_1669.JPEG
IMG_1669.JPEG
 
Water leak problem cause i think
IMG_1682.JPEG


Waited all day to get on the ramp and at 3pm gave up put vehicle in another barn and set to it. 30 mins later was at this stage


also found cause of PAS fluid leak

IMG_1685.JPEG


all back together now, got radiator still out as got this yesterday eve from Diesel BOb

6BBBD667-6DBA-4966-BE30-00D29B51E11A.jpg


Would go and fit it but got a CCTV install to finish today at a clients so no landrover day today.
 
Just to update the thread.

fitted the Fuel Pump and injectors that Diesel Bob had refurbed for me.

Got brave and used the flange on my Timing kit so didn't even have to retime the or refit Timing belt

Runs lovely super responsive and very fast..

Very happy

well worth the money would recommend Diesel Bob to all for their FIP needs

have got through a serpentine belt but that was because i hadn't quite done up the PAS flange bolts as tight as required when i did the P gasket, 2 bolts fell out and it was causing a fair bit of movement.

Still getting a bit of belt squeal but think it maybe a need to change the tensioner.

Other than taht it is going well and in use a couple of days a week, rides loads nicer than the 90 and tows well..

Got to decide on keeping or selling really, if keeping will change front fuel tank as that is rotten, might fit mud console and double din radio and a snorkel and some LED lights but not Headlights as that seems to be a bit of an issue with MOT i beleive

Pondering on some changes to the 90 now....

but will stick another thread up on that
 
Just to update the thread.

fitted the Fuel Pump and injectors that Diesel Bob had refurbed for me.

Got brave and used the flange on my Timing kit so didn't even have to retime the or refit Timing belt

Runs lovely super responsive and very fast..

Very happy

well worth the money would recommend Diesel Bob to all for their FIP needs

have got through a serpentine belt but that was because i hadn't quite done up the PAS flange bolts as tight as required when i did the P gasket, 2 bolts fell out and it was causing a fair bit of movement.

Still getting a bit of belt squeal but think it maybe a need to change the tensioner.

Other than taht it is going well and in use a couple of days a week, rides loads nicer than the 90 and tows well..

Got to decide on keeping or selling really, if keeping will change front fuel tank as that is rotten, might fit mud console and double din radio and a snorkel and some LED lights but not Headlights as that seems to be a bit of an issue with MOT i beleive

Pondering on some changes to the 90 now....

but will stick another thread up on that
That sounds awesome, mate. Well done.
What make of belt have you got on? I've found Dayco's squeal. Gate's belts don't.
 
Funny that it is a Dayco..

will get a gates one and try iit
What I've noticed is that Dayco belts are made of a softer rubber compound and so they grip hard, if there's a slight misalignment of the pulley wheels it gets dragged sideways on the smooth tensioner and squeals. The Gate's belts are a slightly harder compound, so with not such an aggressive grip, they seems to slide sideways without gripping hard enough to squeal. That's my experience anyway :)
 

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