bluehaze

Well-Known Member
Had a couple of battery issues in the last few weeks plus the headlights seem a bit dull.

The loom is for a 1988 CSW. Here is what I did:

Ascertained that the feed goes from battery to fuse box to light switch to headlamps. On the leaving the light switch there is a feed to a switch for the lights on the clocks. The switch has its own small loom.

I disconnected the feed (male bullet) from the main lamp switch from the clock light loom. Did the same for the feed to the clocks (female bullet). Connected the two together. In essence I have done away with the seperate clock lights switch.

The clock lights now come on when the main lights are turned on. The brightness has returned to as it was previously.

I tried to inspect the clock lights switch but it exploded into several bits!

Worth a try if you're struggling with the headlights.
 
You mean the switch down by the hazard switch? That has nothing to do with the headlamps.
 
I always recommend fitting relays in the headlight looms to reduce switch strain and improve light output from full power at the lamps.

Didn't realise the clocks had separate switches?
 
Side lights. Thaqt switch switches on your clock lamps, powered by the side light circuit.
 
Yep, especially when you can buy the loom for a few quid now.

Yes but the problems arising from the new cheaper looms with inferior components that are badly constructed means that we have seen quite a few folks come to the forum for help because their store bought loom isn't chooching the way it should lol.

I bought some combination fuse and relay boxes to make my own up and to house some other circuits, was quite a big job in creating the loom but then again I was combining 5 new triggered feeds and 6 fused outlets, that level of work is quite daunting to a lot of novice home gamers who see electrickery as some sort of dark art and voodoo magic LOL
 
Yes but the problems arising from the new cheaper looms with inferior components that are badly constructed means that we have seen quite a few folks come to the forum for help because their store bought loom isn't chooching the way it should lol.

I bought some combination fuse and relay boxes to make my own up and to house some other circuits, was quite a big job in creating the loom but then again I was combining 5 new triggered feeds and 6 fused outlets, that level of work is quite daunting to a lot of novice home gamers who see electrickery as some sort of dark art and voodoo magic LOL

Mine seems to be working fine,
But I did run a thicker positive to the battery as the one the came with it did seem abit thin.
Can't complain much for £9 delivered though lol.
 
Yes but the problems arising from the new cheaper looms with inferior components that are badly constructed means that we have seen quite a few folks come to the forum for help because their store bought loom isn't chooching the way it should lol.

I bought some combination fuse and relay boxes to make my own up and to house some other circuits, was quite a big job in creating the loom but then again I was combining 5 new triggered feeds and 6 fused outlets, that level of work is quite daunting to a lot of novice home gamers who see electrickery as some sort of dark art and voodoo magic LOL

I’m think it was @bankz5152 that had an issue with his bought loom recently, it may not have been him though.

For what the extra headlight relay loom is, and how much it’s sold at, I would advise anyone to make their own. If the advice from the forum is followed, then it’s really simple.
 
It's hardly surprising people have issues, fitting a relay system into an already compromised electrical system isn't fixing anything, all it does is mask the initial problem.
 
It's hardly surprising people have issues, fitting a relay system into an already compromised electrical system isn't fixing anything, all it does is mask the initial problem.

Hardly. The initial problem comes from trying to draw over 100W through the headlight switch. Swapping the draw for relays makes sense. The relays will draw miliamps, around 340mA for the ones I use.
 
Hardly. The initial problem comes from trying to draw over 100W through the headlight switch. Swapping the draw for relays makes sense. The relays will draw miliamps, around 340mA for the ones I use.

like I said, masking the initial problem of a tired electrical system, poor battery, poor connections, earths, there is a lot more to a vehicles electrical system than just headlights although they are a good indication of the systems overall health, so you have normal lights, what about the rest of it? Or doesn't that matter? People seem more and more fixated these days with headlamp brightness without fully understanding the causes of poor lights, which could just be worn out bulbs.
And 100w or more through a headlamp switch? 8.3 = 100/12 , so at 100 watts we are looking at 8.3 amps, have you seen inside one of those switches? They are rated at a lot more than 8.3 amps, OP said the switch fell to bits,battery issues for a few weeks, like I said, a tired electrical system should not be masked over.
 
Last edited:
like I said, masking the initial problem of a tired electrical system, poor battery, poor connections, earths, there is a lot more to a vehicles electrical system than just headlights although they are a good indication of the systems overall health, so you have normal lights, what about the rest of it? Or doesn't that matter? People seem more and more fixated these days with headlamp brightness without fully understanding the causes of poor lights, which could just be worn out bulbs.
And 100w or more through a headlamp switch? 8.3 = 100/12 , so at 100 watts we are looking at 8.3 amps, have you seen inside one of those switches? They are rated at a lot more than 8.3 amps, OP said the switch fell to bits,battery issues for a few weeks, like I said, a tired electrical system should not be masked over.

Putting relays in the headlight system is a common mod, but yes I agree that other issues may well be being masked by the mod.

I agree that the switch probably is rated at more than 8-9A, but 30 year old wiring, that was only just suitable when new, may well increase the problem. So reducing the load on that circuit will help no end.
 
Just interested....the "loom for a few quid" mentioned in this thread.....are you talking about a new headlight loom only ?
OR the whole thing ?
 

Similar threads