hoopfish · Oct 22, 2023

Good morning. So the LR2 07 plate has started throwing up the above fault code. It started missing on acceleration, like a miss fire, but mainly around 1000rpm. Took it to the garage and was told the turbo actuator was shot, quoted £1500 for a new turbo and actuator, although they have never done one on a LR2 before. My question is...can the actuator be changed with out the turbo and do they have to be programed in to each other to work?. The changing of the actuator is , from what I can see, a fairly straight forward swap and am happy to do it myself, I have an iid gap to turn off the fault codes.
Thanks.

Nodge68 · Oct 22, 2023

There are loads of other things to investigate before a turbo or actuator. Boost hoses are prone to splits, so it's sensible to simply replace all 4 for starters.
Missing can often be traced to the crank sensor or timing wheel, a 2007 could still have the old design, which wasn't very reliable, so many were replaced with a later type either as a warranty job, or simply because of failure. The later type target wheel is much more reliable, however the later sensor can still suffer from intermittent signal output, hence misfiring. Oh and 1000 RPM is too low to be using this engine, as oil pressure at that speed isn't sufficient to support the bearings. Oil pressure is acceptable from about 1500 RPM, which should be the minimum when under load.

The turbo vanes can go sticky, there's a process to free them in the Freelander 2 official manual. Don't ever try to move the actuator by hand, as it will damage the worm drive inside.

It's best to run an air path calibration on the vehicle after any work on the intake system, as air path errors cause all sorts of odd running conditions.

hoopfish · Oct 22, 2023

Nodge68 said:
There are loads of other things to investigate before a turbo or actuator. Boost hoses are prone to splits, so it's sensible to simply replace all 4 for starters.
Missing can often be traced to the crank sensor or timing wheel, a 2007 could still have the old design, which wasn't very reliable, so many were replaced with a later type either as a warranty job, or simply because of failure. The later type target wheel is much more reliable, however the later sensor can still suffer from intermittent signal output, hence misfiring. Oh and 1000 RPM is too low to be using this engine, as oil pressure at that speed isn't sufficient to support the bearings. Oil pressure is acceptable from about 1500 RPM, which should be the minimum when under load.

The turbo vanes can go sticky, there's a process to free them in the Freelander 2 official manual. Don't ever try to move the actuator by hand, as it will damage the worm drive inside.

It's best to run an air path calibration on the vehicle after any work on the intake system, as air path errors cause all sorts of odd running conditions.

Thanks for the reply. Off to the garage it is then. Will be putting it in to a LR independent though.

hoopfish

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Nodge68

Well-Known Member

hoopfish

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