cborrman

cborrman

Active Member
Got the terafirma polybush kit fkr my 1996 110 CSW, and the front and back trailing arms or whatever they are called are now polybushed - however the rest of the box just does not look compatible with the parts??? Have I got / been sent wrong one?
 

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jamesmartin said:
thast looks like a rear trailing arm to axle bush but minus the center tube, lay the bushes out and take pics
Click to expand...
ok this took a while, but here goes; any of these used in steering?
4F6385D2-7A6E-40FC-BF54-6367E0FE7EEB.jpeg


the only ones I have used from this kit are on trailing arms all 4 corners
 
TF1000 is REAR UPPER A FRAME SUSPENSION LINK BUSHES
TF1001 is REAR LOWER SUSPENSION TRAILING ARM BUSH KIT AXLE END
TF1002 is FRONT RADIUS ARM BUSH KIT AXLE END
TF1005 is FRONT PANHARD ROD BUSH KIT 2007 ON
TF1006 is FRONT PANHARD ROD BUSH KIT EARLY TYPE

Hope this helps a little.
 
ivancrx said:
TF1000 is REAR UPPER A FRAME SUSPENSION LINK BUSHES
TF1001 is REAR LOWER SUSPENSION TRAILING ARM BUSH KIT AXLE END
TF1002 is FRONT RADIUS ARM BUSH KIT AXLE END
TF1005 is FRONT PANHARD ROD BUSH KIT 2007 ON
TF1006 is FRONT PANHARD ROD BUSH KIT EARLY TYPE

Hope this helps a little.
Click to expand...
It does, thanks, do you / anyone know which busing is on the bar that connects to the swing arm (red circle) ??
469DE38E-5C88-406F-BC77-348C8AF925F8.jpeg
 
If you buy a new panard arm you can put poly bushes straight in. Then replace/remove the other bushes in the old arm so you have a spare.

as for the steering arm. You may need a puller to remove this to replace.
 
cborrman said:
Sadly I know this is beyond me, and supsect the ones in the panhard need replacing as well, and sadly it seems its cheaper easier to get a new rod than the tools required to fix (bearing press) ... on that note, it is easier / cheaper to get a new ball joint / arm as well?
Click to expand...
You do not need a bearing press if you are refitting polybushes it can be done with basic hand tools and a bit of time. Use the drill and cut method to remove the old one (drill through the rubber (can also burn it out) to remove the inner sleeve, then use a hacksaw to carefully cut through the outer to relieve the the spring pressure (may need to be done in two places) and knock it out with a suitable punch) and then refit poly bushes by hand.
 
The last time I took out OEM bushes I just put the bar/rod/arm in the vice and sawed through the lot in one go until almost through in two places, then ****ted it with a small cold chisel to fold in upon itself. You need a coarse hacksaw blade and a lot of lube like wd40, I used drilling/tapping fluid. Around 10 mins each bush.
 
frog hopper said:
The last time I took out OEM bushes I just put the bar/rod/arm in the vice and sawed through the lot in one go until almost through in two places, then ****ted it with a small cold chisel to fold in upon itself. You need a coarse hacksaw blade and a lot of lube like wd40, I used drilling/tapping fluid. Around 10 mins each bush.
Click to expand...
You must have arms like popeye to hacksaw through the rubber! I tried first time and then decided it was too much like hard work and drilled most of the rubber out first. Have never personally burnt them out but I have neighbors that like to complain so acrid smoke and burning rubber would probably not go down well.
 
Aye Up,

If your truck has recently been lifted and is not already fitted with an adjustable Panhard rod you will need to consider this in order to realign the front axle laterally.

Whether or not, be aware that replacing the original bushes with poly might prove a challenge as the locating brackets on the axle and the chassis can be narrower than the poly bushes require to be easily refitted.

I’ve recently done this and found that I had to use copious amounts of grease and pressure (jack and block) to get the PH rod into the chassis mount and I had to physically widen the bracket on the axle end.
Once you get the rod fitted make sure you torque the bolts right up to the specified requirement.
 
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

If your truck has recently been lifted and is not already fitted with an adjustable Panhard rod you will need to consider this in order to realign the front axle laterally.

Whether or not, be aware that replacing the original bushes with poly might prove a challenge as the locating brackets on the axle and the chassis can be narrower than the poly bushes require to be easily refitted.

I’ve recently done this and found that I had to use copious amounts of grease and pressure (jack and block) to get the PH rod into the chassis mount and I had to physically widen the bracket on the axle end.
Once you get the rod fitted make sure you torque the bolts right up to the specified requirement.
Click to expand...
ahh, has not been lifted, however just realised you are right, as put new springs and dampers with no lift, but the old ones were saggy and so effect was a slight lift! thanks a million was driving me nuts why tracking seemed different!
 
cborrman said:
ahh, has not been lifted, however just realised you are right, as put new springs and dampers with no lift, but the old ones were saggy and so effect was a slight lift! thanks a million was driving me nuts why tracking seemed different!
Click to expand...

Hmm, just wondering about that -

If your vehicle has a standard Panhard rod, as the original springs sagged theoretically the axle should have moved out of kilter slightly. When you fitted new standard springs and effectively ‘lifted’ it back to original ride height I would have thought that the axle should have Re-centralised

Similarly, the tracking angles shouldn’t be affected unless you have interfered with the steering ball joints, the front axle just moves out of line in relation to the rear (which I suspect would show up on a laser track check as well)..
And that of course assumes that your rear axle isn’t floating out of line!
 
Enzian said:
Hmm, just wondering about that -

If your vehicle has a standard Panhard rod, as the original springs sagged theoretically the axle should have moved out of kilter slightly. When you fitted new standard springs and effectively ‘lifted’ it back to original ride height I would have thought that the axle should have Re-centralised

Similarly, the tracking angles shouldn’t be affected unless you have interfered with the steering ball joints, the front axle just moves out of line in relation to the rear (which I suspect would show up on a laser track check as well)..
And that of course assumes that your rear axle isn’t floating out of line!
Click to expand...
possible, but what I am thinking is that as the suspension sagged, the wheels were re-alligned or even a new rod put in while sagged to compensate... so then along comes wonder bra and...
 
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