Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #1

We're looking at a 4.0l P38 auto, not that it matters much.

On refitting the front prop-shaft I thought I'd do the honourable thing and replace the nuts and bolts. Unfortunately they were ****part and they've lived up to their name and dropped me in it. The torque-wrench never started clicking but just went on forever. Two of the bl**dy nuts have polished on the bolt and now they won't tighten and won't come off either. Being prop-shaft nuts the access isn't exactly easy: it is stuck in that recess with the shaft above it and the bolt on the back is jammed against the diff.

My plan is to try to undo with a screwdriver wedged in (if I can) to try and force the nut off. Failing that I might be able to get a junior hacksaw blade and weaken the nut enough to rip off with mole-grips. Neither idea has much merit IMO.

Any other ideas, anyone?

Cheers,

J

 

K

kenfrancis57

New Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #2

A multi tool with a metal cutting Blade or a nut splitter. Best of luck

 

flatlander

It's not broken!

Donater

• Jul 10, 2015

• #3

The lack of space makes it hard! Try centre-punching one face of the nut and drilling right through with as big a drill as you can, best would be as big as the bolt if possible. This should weaken the bolt enough to snap it. Good luck!

 

M

Myredrangey

New Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #4

I sympathise, I've just changed both universal joints on the front prop shaft and those nuts are a b@stard, I had to take off the transfer box mounting bar to get to the rears. Stupid design!
Best of luck!

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #5

Myredrangey said:

I sympathise, I've just changed both universal joints on the front prop shaft and those nuts are a b@stard, I had to take off the transfer box mounting bar to get to the rears. Stupid design!
Best of luck!

Click to expand...

They are tight! If you rotate the prop there is a sweet spot when it is near the bottom where you can usually get a socket on the nut with a spanner to hole the bolt.

Like the drill idea. That's much more like it as long as it fits in there. I'll try all of them!

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #6

kenfrancis57 said:

A multi tool with a metal cutting Blade or a nut splitter. Best of luck

Click to expand...

Never used a nut-splitter before. Useful looking tool. Think space might be a bit tight though.

 

EeEk

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #7

cut the bolt head off with a grinder.

 

freelance

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2015

• #8

Hammer and chisel, split the nut.

 

brianp38dse

Well-Known Member

• Jul 11, 2015

• #9

Dremmals work quite well in small places, you might go through a few cutting discs but easy to use.

 

3.5 efi

Well-Known Member

• Jul 11, 2015

• #10

freelance said:

Hammer and chisel, split the nut.

Click to expand...

Wot he sed ^ sharp chisel on the thinnest part.

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Jul 11, 2015

• #11

And the winner was ... junior hacksaw combined with a hammer and chisel. Fortunately ****part nuts are soft as butter.

 

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Full Member

• Jul 11, 2015

• #12

Well Done chap.....

How is the ol' girl?

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Jul 11, 2015

• #13

Saint.V8 said:

Well Done chap.....

How is the ol' girl?

Click to expand...

After a somewhat frustrating afternoon, pretty much all fixed.

Outstanding issues: the airbags are on their last legs. She really needs Brian's remote 12V switch for the RF receiver and then replace the central locking motors ... oh, and the aircon isn't working but other than that I think she's good - ignoring the cosmetic stuff like the headlining and the dashboard etc. In an ideal world you'd do a top-end refresh too but I don't think that is urgent.

I'll drop her off tomorrow and then it is up to MrGorsky as to what he wants to do with her.