Water pump is now on - the fan attachment threads took a different bolt size from the old one so a trip to screw fix for a lucky dip box of nuts, bolts and washers was in order.

Tested the glow plugs and they seem to work. Is there a timer in the system (every other diesel car I've had has had one)? I assume the glow plug circuit is only activated when you hold the key against the spring and illuminate the choke symbol on the dashboard, there doesn't seem to be a looped pre heater symbol.

I'm waiting for a diesel compression testing kit to be delivered so I can test that but, having tried to get it to start with the charger hooked up in "engine start" mode, (I think one cylinder was about to play ball) now the starter motor won't turn the engine over, it just clicks! Even the "John Cleese dance of automotive rage" doesn't help.

I have moved beyond the stage of frustration now and my emotions are getting the better of me. The bloody thing has been on the drive doing nothing since I picked it up in early February.

What do we think? Put it back on eBay as spares or repair and chalk it up to experience (never buy anything from a former "News of the Screws" so called "journalist"). Or, is there some hope for it?
 
I really wish that you were closer!!

There must be someone on here that could give you a hand, as it will probably be something relatively simple that's been overlooked!
 
2ndyouth said:
Water pump is now on - the fan attachment threads took a different bolt size from the old one so a trip to screw fix for a lucky dip box of nuts, bolts and washers was in order.

Tested the glow plugs and they seem to work. Is there a timer in the system (every other diesel car I've had has had one)? I assume the glow plug circuit is only activated when you hold the key against the spring and illuminate the choke symbol on the dashboard, there doesn't seem to be a looped pre heater symbol.

I'm waiting for a diesel compression testing kit to be delivered so I can test that but, having tried to get it to start with the charger hooked up in "engine start" mode, (I think one cylinder was about to play ball) now the starter motor won't turn the engine over, it just clicks! Even the "John Cleese dance of automotive rage" doesn't help.

I have moved beyond the stage of frustration now and my emotions are getting the better of me. The bloody thing has been on the drive doing nothing since I picked it up in early February.

What do we think? Put it back on eBay as spares or repair and chalk it up to experience (never buy anything from a former "News of the Screws" so called "journalist"). Or, is there some hope for it?
Click to expand...

Yes, just regular glows like on a tractor, hold it up against the spring for a bit, then turn key the rest of the way to turn engine.
Starter problem is probably trivial, sticking solenoid, flat battery.
Just relax and enjoy working on it, you will get it started soon, and they are a pretty reliable unit usually, so it should give good service when it is done.
 
Simple stuff first. Charge the battery, don't touch the accelerator pedal, give it 20 seconds of glows, then try starting it! You need a good battery to get these going.

Do you have anyone near that can give you a tow start?
 
Yep I hold key for 20 seconds for its first start of the day and fires up immediately, if I only give it 10 seconds its less happy!.
My starter started clicking occasionally even with big battery, I cleaned the starter terminals including the solenoid small one (thats the ignition starter one) and its been fine since.
Once you get it spinning well we can look further if it doesnt fire up.
Am in Dorset, bit far to get over there or would happily help you out.
 
I am in west sussex near burgess hill and am happy to come have a look, help out or give a tow start if needed.

Ed
 
What a good fellow you are. I'm in Haywards Heath but back to work tomorrow so a bit short of time. I gave the battery a good charge and it nearly started this morning. I've bought some heavy duty jump leads and will try jumping it from the Discovery. If I have no joy, I'll be in touch.

Many thanks

Pail
 
It Started! Brought me more joy than you can imagine.

Exhaust is blowing (middle box somewhere).

Very smokey (capital "V").

Indicators don't flash. All filaments work but they just stay on with a buzz when the indicators are switched on. Hazards flash very quickly.

I think I've got all four cylinders but, as I said, it is very smokey.

Steering heavy. The steering tube crossrod (behind the damper) has a bend that doesn't appear to be bent. On the parts diagram

But, it started!

Thanks to you all for your support and encouragement.

Flat,

Didn't you have an issue with vast quantities of smoke or was that someone else? You could probably see the "signals" I was sending from where you are.
 
2ndyouth said:
It Started! Brought me more joy than you can imagine.

Exhaust is blowing (middle box somewhere).

Very smokey (capital "V").

Indicators don't flash. All filaments work but they just stay on with a buzz when the indicators are switched on. Hazards flash very quickly.

I think I've got all four cylinders but, as I said, it is very smokey.

Steering heavy. The steering tube crossrod (behind the damper) has a bend that doesn't appear to be bent. On the parts diagram

But, it started!

Thanks to you all for your support and encouragement.

Flat,

Didn't you have an issue with vast quantities of smoke or was that someone else? You could probably see the "signals" I was sending from where you are.
Click to expand...

Yeah I did hang on
 
Got back under the bonnet again today. Had a tweak of the injection pump and managed to reduce the smoke a little but I doubt it would pass an emissions test. That's with the top of the pump twisted fully over to the drivers wing.

The exhaust is also banging on the rear chassis as the exhaust hanger mounted on the rusty rear crossmember is coming adrift and dangling.

Brake warning light came on and the brake pedal seems unusually hard (not that I've had much experience with it).

New steering damper and drag link with track rod end fitted and steering doesn't feel quite as heavy as it did with the bent drag link.

Not yet convinced that it's going to provide reliable transport for some time to come. I offered number one son the opportunity to drive it and he looked at me as though I was barking mad. He's only ever driven brand new driving school cars and our 2012 Mini. I pointed out that his licence qualified him to drive the 90 by the was unconvinced.
 
Went out on a run today - took daughter riding to Albourne so Flat may have seen my trail of smoke coming through his village. I think the smoking has reduced but I was a little preoccupied with the brakes. I have a warning light on (the red one with a picture of brake shoes and an exclamation mark) and the pedal feels very hard and not a lot of decelerating from quite a lot of (occasionally desperate) standing on the pedal. Any ideas?
 
Is the brake fluid level ok?

Vacuum servo or master cylinder. Is there any leaking of brake fluid anywhere?
 
Also do you have vacuum to the servo?

Try this test When you start the engine with foot on the brake, the peddle should go down farther as the servo takes load. If it does not and you have verified vacuum to the servo, it is the servo.
 
2ndyouth said:
Went out on a run today - took daughter riding to Albourne so Flat may have seen my trail of smoke coming through his village. I think the smoking has reduced but I was a little preoccupied with the brakes. I have a warning light on (the red one with a picture of brake shoes and an exclamation mark) and the pedal feels very hard and not a lot of decelerating from quite a lot of (occasionally desperate) standing on the pedal. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

For the brake warning light, first determine what type of system you have. Some 110's have a pressure difference warning device which is plumbed into brakes and attached to the dashboard. It's easy to see if you have this as you won't have any wires connected to the cap of the brake fluid (as it won't have a sensor in it). On this system, the light indicates pressure imbalance between the front and rear brakes or a faulty valve.

90's normally have the fluid level sensor in their cap - you can easily see this as it will have a wire from the cap. On this system, the light indicates low brake fluid or a fault in the sensor.

I recently had the light on in my 110. In my case the front pads were fine, but one of the rear cylinders was leaking. This was allowing air back into the system, reducing braking effectiveness. The rear shoes were also very worn and beyond adjustment.

A vacuum fault would not cause the light to come on, but it would make braking more difficult.
 
2ndyouth said:
Got back under the bonnet again today. Had a tweak of the injection pump and managed to reduce the smoke a little but I doubt it would pass an emissions test. That's with the top of the pump twisted fully over to the drivers wing.
Click to expand...

Without reading the entire thread , if it is a timing issue it sounds like the belt has slipped a tooth, the tensioner isnt working or has slipped or your pump is knackered.

I take it the smoke is white (diesel}?
 
This is exactly what I want to know.

I have a problem with the injector shroud at the base of one of the injectors. It appears to be partly missing.

shroud.jpg


I assume that the bottom has been broken off (and then removed or burnt off) and the remainder (which supports the copper washer) is stuck in the hole.

Is this remaining piece removable or am I just making a idiot of myself trying to hook it out.

Any ideas?
 
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