Ant1st

Ant1st

Member
Please I hope someone can help me.
I have seen a few posts on here which seem to relate to my issues but don't seem to be resolved. Apologies for it been long winded.
My 2006 td4 has issues I have tried to be exact as I can. It starts fine on the turn of the key but soon as it fires the whole car start chugging and juddering and a whitish colour smoke starts coming out the exhaust and gets thick and heavy. This last for a good 10 minutes and only seems to go after been driven. It was very rough at idle and erratic. The engine sounds rough as a bears arse. Think that covers the main issue in detail but please ask away if I have missed anything.

What I have done so far.
On inspection of the engine there does not seem excessive loss of oil or coolant and the engine from most view points is dry and no leaks even when I pull away off the drive.

I brought the car to a local garage and was told the turbo was leaking and needed replacing and the other issue is the injectors but they all need sending to Germany (don't ask) . Not convinced I went to Land Rover Enniskillen. After they had the car for a day was told nothing much with the turbo and he believed the issue was the crankcase breather filter and change this and the car would be perfect. He dismissed the BMW upgrade as a waste of time. Based on this I gave the go ahead for this to be done with a full service and couple of other jobs and parted with £800.00.

Got the car back after been told it was fine and fixed. Drove it back home and within the first 10 miles was not impressed and by the time I got the 42 miles home I was on the phone to Land Rover Enniskillen flipping the lid. The car now is almost worse then when it went in. Still heavy smoke, massive chugging/juddering and the engine sounding rough and about to drop out the car......

If anyone has any idea from what I have said please help.

Very sorry for the long winded post but wanted to get as much in as I can. I have called Land Rover UK and waiting for them to contact me back too.
 
Hi guys. It's done just under 220000klms. Would the Land Rover dealer not have been more in tune to say it's the injectors?
 
LR dealerships will offer little more benefit than an indie - and in fact probably most indies would be better. Staff in the dealerships at the time 'may' have had some training on Freelander - but 10-20 years on, they probably don't work there any more. The dealer organisations themselves are not going to be interested in old F1s because they can take owners of the high-end RRs & Discos to the cleaners and milk them for a load of cash.

So it really depends on who you get at the dealerships if you're lucky enough to find someone that knows anything about the TD4, and cares at all.

Indies will be much more likely to have experience of "real world" problems driving 10 to 20 year old Freelanders. However, you've still got the issue of finding an honest indie that knows what they are doing.
 
As GG said. A modern LR main dealer simply isn't interested in an old Freelander. They again like GG said, won't have a technician who knows a Freelander 1 at all.
I found my local LR main dealer quite unhelpful, even with regards to my 10 year old D3.
I'm afraid you'll be wasting more money using a main dealer. You need to find a good independent instead;)
 
+1 injectors.
Or could be, fuel rail pressure sensor, or MAF, maybe even the cam sensor, but I would think you'd have the engine light on for these.
Has anyone plugged it into a diagnostic machine?
Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
+1 injectors.
Or could be, fuel rail pressure sensor, or MAF, maybe even the cam sensor, but I would think you'd have the engine light on for these.
Has anyone plugged it into a diagnostic machine?
Mike
Click to expand...
^^^ +1 diagnostic is the way to go.

At that mileage injectors, LP pump, MAF and FRP sensor are all suspects. In the meantime, why not unplug the MAF and see if things improve?

Edit: Oh, and: "Breather filter... Full service... Couple of other jobs... £800"??!! What were the couple of other jobs? New clutch? :eek::oops::mad:
 
Last edited:
No new clutch or anything like that. Was front discs and pads, stabiliser links.

Would never usually go to a dealer but I went to a so called independent LR specialist with my 2005 Freelander who gave a list long as your arm of things to do but totally missed the fact the clutch was on the way out after I caught him driving the car around his yard on 3 wheels like a d'''head. Gave no confidence.

I have and never had any warning lights. What and where is the MAF sensor as anything is worth a look at this point as no one seems to know how to fix this issue.
 
guineafowl21 said:
^^^ +1 diagnostic is the way to go.

At that mileage injectors, LP pump, MAF and FRP sensor are all suspects. In the meantime, why not unplug the MAF and see if things improve?

Edit: Oh, and: "Breather filter... Full service... Couple of other jobs... £800"??!! What were the couple of other jobs? New clutch? :eek::oops::mad:
Click to expand...
What is the LP pump and FRP sensor?
 
Skinny Mike said:
+1 injectors.
Or could be, fuel rail pressure sensor, or MAF, maybe even the cam sensor, but I would think you'd have the engine light on for these.
Has anyone plugged it into a diagnostic machine?
Mike
Click to expand...
Yes at the first garage but that was the garage who told me the power steering pump and turbo were leaking and need replacing but turns out they did not and that the injectors in my Freelander were special ones from Germany and all had to be removed and sent back to Germany. (I did not come down in the last shower) hence I went to a LR dealer.
 
I have no clutch issue and under load the car pulls well with no lag. All I want is the chugging and smoke gone from idle. And if anyone can say without me spending out massive money like some people on here have to no avail and no positive feedback. Even wondering about asking my local BMW dealer as it is a BMW power unit after all and plenty of 2005 and 2006 2.0 BMW around here lol
 
Lp pump=low pressure fuel pump, under drivers side rear wheel arch.
Frp=fuel rail pressure.
MAF = mass air flow meter, as you look at the engine, it's on the left hand side of the air filter, back of engine. If you pull the wires off the top of the MAF, the engine will run a standard program, if it runs ok, then your MAF is knackered.
I posted a thread the other day that is a video of the basic bits of a TD4, is in the technical archive at the top of the page, watch that(for Newbies and the confused) , and go and get a Haynes manual. It'll help no end.
We can help you get to the bottom of this, but it'll take time, and you really need a Haynes manual.
Mike
 
Hi Skinny Mike. That all sounds very helpful. I am going to try to get a look at the MAF sensor if the weather is good tomorrow (after the F1) and I have a Haynes manual too but find you need a idea what the problem is and then look at the manual to find how to do it.
 
Skinny Mike said:
Lp pump=low pressure fuel pump, under drivers side rear wheel arch.
Frp=fuel rail pressure.
MAF = mass air flow meter, as you look at the engine, it's on the left hand side of the air filter, back of engine. If you pull the wires off the top of the MAF, the engine will run a standard program, if it runs ok, then your MAF is knackered.
I posted a thread the other day that is a video of the basic bits of a TD4, is in the technical archive at the top of the page, watch that(for Newbies and the confused) , and go and get a Haynes manual. It'll help no end.
We can help you get to the bottom of this, but it'll take time, and you really need a Haynes manual.
Mike
Click to expand...
Hi Mike. I watched your video and I noticed two things. By the way it's a great video.
What is that you have on the egr valve? What is the benefits of blocking or cutting off the egr valve.
Where is the MAF sensor to disconnect it and see is it the problem?
Many thanks.
 
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