Bizgsi

Bizgsi

New Member
Hi am new to owning a disco and so far it's not gone well first thing was it had to much oil in the engine so then started to leak from sump then the alternator belt come off so on Sunday I put a new 1 on I did notice the day before that when running the bottom pulley was wobble the Sunday night it started to make a noise like bottom end had gone but after messing about with it I think it's the pulley as you can wobble it by hand and it sounds just like knocking when it's running it is very loose tried to tighten it up but just turns engine over even in gear so I fort id try undoing it but still no luck dose anyone know how to get it off
 
breaker bar under chassis drivers side-turn starter motor with key.Sounds like key way is worn-hopefully crank is ok
 
biolandy said:
breaker bar under chassis drivers side-turn starter motor with key.Sounds like key way is worn-hopefully crank is ok
Click to expand...

That's what I was think but wasn't sure about doing it what is the key way and I hope the crank is ok to thanks
 
Bizgsi said:
Hi, I am new to owning a disco and so far it's not gone well. The first thing was it had too much oil in the engine so then started to leak from sump. Then the alternator belt come off so on Sunday I put a new 1 on.

I did notice the day before that when running the bottom pulley was wobbling. The Sunday night it started to make a noise like bottom end had gone, but after messing about with it I think it's the pulley as you can wobble it by hand and it sounds just like knocking when it's running. It is very loose. I tried to tighten it up but it just turns engine over even in gear so I thought I'd try undoing it but still no luck.

Does anyone know how to get it off
Click to expand...


So, having translated your post into English I can now offer an answer.

You can use the 'starter motor' trick if you want, just make sure the electrical connector to the fuel stop solenoid is disconnected.

You could also buy/rent a crank pulley locking arm, which I use and takes all the pain out of doing this.

You could also use a starter ring locking tool via the bellhousing.
 
Bizgsi said:
Thanks for the help and info have got the main 30 mm bolt off now what's next lol
Click to expand...

Err, take the pulley off?

If the pulley was wobbling on the crankshaft then the seal in the front cover will be mullered, the keyway in the shaft might be buggered and the key almost certainly will be.

Might want to go deeper and check the timing belt too.

Make sure that bolt is done up properly - 80Nm plus 90 degrees. This is where the crank locking tool really comes into its own.

Good luck
 
Got pulley off and this is what I found
375eb116.jpg

ec6627b1.jpg

70aafdd3.jpg
 
the o-ring mentioned above is behind the timing belt pulley, make sure you get her timed up properly before pulling the belt off, get some timing pins off eBay.

Never seen a pulley broke like that, surprising.

Oil seal will deffo be shagged.
 
Right fort Sod it took timing case off to have a look at woodruff key here is what I found
9ff1d8be.jpg

Am thinking next need to take cam belt off get that crank pulley off never done this before so an after some help
 
Last edited:
big problems there I am afraid-somehow need to get the keyway reinstalled in the crank-or fit a new pulley and weld it on,but it is on for good then-sorry
 
Yea I think I'm going to take cam belt off and take that pulley off put a new woodruff key in a use that metal chemical stuff to fix it in place then do the pulley up extra tight if I can and hope for the best
 
That photo looks like the one i have just posted about my crank. But insted of chemical metal its been welded with the key in. Hope you find a solution.

Simon.
 
Holy crap that's a mess.

Get her timed up, get the belt off and that pulley. You have oil in there so the oil seal behind that pulley will be farked too, that will need doing too.

With any luck the crank keyway will be ok under the pulley and new keys and pulleys will sort her out. If not then it gets tricky, the chemical metal idea might work but only if you can be sure the pulley is on in the right place, then stuff the filler in and don't touch until its well dry. This is a real bodge though.

Failing that it's replacement crank time.
 
The chemical metal idea is a waste of time in my opinion. I had the same problem with a Mitsubishi shogun I once had, the woodruff key had chewed up the crank shaft and the pulleys. I used Chemical metal and after a week I had exactly the same thing happen again. In the end it was an old truck so i welded the woodruff key in
Place and also had to weld the crank pulley on also. It did the job though and was still going strong 4 years later. Hope this helps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
1999 Td5 running roughly...
Replies
3
Views
253
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
A
Freelander 2 (LR2) 3.2 i6 Alternator Drive Pulley Shaft
Replies
0
Views
665
Ash927
A
P
Help needed please
Replies
8
Views
417
Firebobby1
Firebobby1
pocketrocket
Disco 300tdi sluggish power
Replies
5
Views
415
pocketrocket
pocketrocket
D1Nut
Lt230 drain plug broken in-situ
Replies
5
Views
449
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer