iromilo1

New Member
Hello People I have been a member for a while but this is my first post .
I have a '97 defender 90 300 tdi .It is modified for extreame off road.
Some weeks ago I noticed the clutch was slipping on boost . Two weeks ago I had the clutch replaced . When I got it back it was still slipping .The mechanic was slightly baffled as was I .This week the master cylinder ,the slave cylinder and the flexi pipe was replaced.I pickked it up last night hoping to go to Kirton today .Gess what it was slipping like a ba****d. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
No idea sorry, but my defenders clutch bites right at the top and its got a brand new clutch too. I expect we have the same problem, ive got a new master to fit but uve already tryed that one...:confused:
 
Thrust bearings?

Get someone to push the clutch and watch the crankshaft pully, does it move a lot?

Hydraulic mismatch? If there is a mismatch in the cylinders it can stop the slave piston being able to push fully home, resulting in the clutch not releasing properly.
 
Hello People I have been a member for a while but this is my first post .
I have a '97 defender 90 300 tdi .It is modified for extreame off road.
Some weeks ago I noticed the clutch was slipping on boost . Two weeks ago I had the clutch replaced . When I got it back it was still slipping .The mechanic was slightly baffled as was I .This week the master cylinder ,the slave cylinder and the flexi pipe was replaced.I pickked it up last night hoping to go to Kirton today .Gess what it was slipping like a ba****d. Does anyone have any suggestions?

If you slacken off the slave cylinder, is there pressure behind it, as in it is not able to provide enough clearance. (for example if the rod was too long then it would never release) this would simulate a held on clutch.

Is the release bearing moving freely on the shaft when you operate it with the slave cylinder removed.

Was there indication of oil contamination on your old clutch, and is there a posibility that this is the cause of another failure.

Have you filled the g/box with too much oil or the wrong type.

Is the breather blocked, causing a pressure build up and forcing oil out the input shaft onto the plate.

But your first port of call is to make sure it's releasing properly.
 
I've got the same problem on my 96 300tdi disco. New complete clutch kit fitted today, on the way home and after about 8-10 miles, clutch started to slip on full throttle around 2200 rpm(peak torque at a guess). I had exactly the same symptoms with the old clutch, which when removed was found to be in excellent condition, nearly new by the looks of things.
The bellhousing was completely dry, no oil leaking from the rear crank oil seal or leaking in from elsewhere.
Was wondering if the clutch damper could be causing a problem and preventing all the fluid flowing back.
 
M/cyl free play, pop top plate off, 6 screws and you can see what what easily



Lynall
 
Can't add to the advice you've already had, but hope you solve - let us know as we like updates:)

Was wondering whether 4 years 3 months between joining and 1st post is a record:D
 
Well, I had a chance to look under the bonnet today, but before I did, had to drive round to the garage. When I put my foot on the clutch for the 1st time, the pedal went down a few inches and stopped. I took my foot off again and tried again. This time it went down as would be expected and worked normally everytime after.
Anyway, being a 300tdi, there's no adjustment on the pedal end so, to check it definitely isn't down to the clutch itself(shouldn't have been as it's all new). I put a washer on each of the slave cylinder bolts, between the slave and bellhousing. Gear selection, check. Lack of clutch slip whilst towing my trialer, check.
So, one part of the hydraulics is holding pressure on the release bearing and causing the clutch slip.
Next thing I suppose, is to replace both the master and slave cylinder.
 
I have the same problem with my 1997 defender the clutch was slipping so I had it replaced an it was ok to start with biting at the bottom of the travel gradually it came up now its at the top and starting to slip again when towing is this the same fault can anyone help
 
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I have the same problem with my 1997 defender the clutch was slipping so I had it replaced an it was ok to start with biting at the bottom of the travel gradually it came up now its at the top and starting to slip again when towing is this the same fault can anyone help

I'd go to the introduction section or you'll get a hard time.

I would suggest the hydraulic system could be holding the clutch in the disengaged position slightly - or your thrust bearing is shot - see my reply from years ago!

If you think about it, the master pushes fluid along the line to the slave, the slave piston pushes the push-rod, this pivots the clutch fork which acts on the release bearing which in turn pushes in the fingers on the clutch cover diaphragm spring and releases the clutch plate from the cover/flywheel clamping forces to allow it to rotate independently from the engine. IF any of that system is not adjusted correctly it is very possible that the clutch is essentially being held off slightly.

Clutch.jpg

I forgot the cover note on the picture - it's the bit that sits over the plate for those who don't know.

As the clutch plate wears the clutch cover must allow for this by slightly moving in on the plate to keep it clamped tightly between the clutch cover clamping face and the flywheel.

As this happens the fingers on the diaphragm spring will start to move out a little towards the release bearing this is now multiplied due to leverage, so a small amount of clutch wear can manifest itself as several mm on the spring fingers. So if you you have no slack in the system then as the clutch wears the release bearing cannot move back so the pressure on the cover increases which starts to release the cover from the plate.

Now you have a brand new plate and hydraulic components so the cover clamping plate should be right out against lots of new friction material, which means the spring fingers should be in quite far, but if your mechanic footered with the push rods and adjustment at the pedal etc it is possible it's been adjusted so much that the system is holding the clutch off.

The hydraulic system is notorious for being a pig to bleed and often it just takes a couple of days and driving to get it to feel normal, if the mechanic tried to adjust out what in fact was air in the system he may have got it quite wrong.

Check that there is some slack on the system while the clutch is sitting at rest for starters.
 
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Hello People I have been a member for a while but this is my first post .
I have a '97 defender 90 300 tdi .It is modified for extreame off road.
Some weeks ago I noticed the clutch was slipping on boost . Two weeks ago I had the clutch replaced . When I got it back it was still slipping .The mechanic was slightly baffled as was I .This week the master cylinder ,the slave cylinder and the flexi pipe was replaced.I pickked it up last night hoping to go to Kirton today .Gess what it was slipping like a ba****d. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Mate I'm watching this thread because my 300tdi is doing it. If I'm going up hill in 4th or 5th it over runs but no clutch smell.
 
just fitted new clutch master and slave , seems to of cures my slipping but the clutch i removed didint look too bad springs were a little loose no sign of any oil , strange
 

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